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idle issues


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still having problems... look down the page

 

 

 

my truck idles to hi whats wrong?...

 

...so the water pump went out, i changed it and in the prosses i broke a couple of vacuum lines, repaired them and when i started her up my idle was sitting at about 1200rpm wen previously it ran at bout 6oo, and occationaly bounces between 3 and 4oorpm (close to dieing) rite after starting.

 

its not a runon sentace if it doesnt start with a capital letter...

 

any help would be much apreceated. thanks

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I would take this opportunity to do that. Use an o2 safe throttle body cleaner, an old toothbrush and some Q-tips to clean out any carbon buildup.

I still think there's a vacuum leak somewhere. Do you have a propane torch handy? Or a can of starter fluid?

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I would take this opportunity to do that. Use an o2 safe throttle body cleaner, an old toothbrush and some Q-tips to clean out any carbon buildup.

I still think there's a vacuum leak somewhere. Do you have a propane torch handy? Or a can of starter fluid?

 

i agree w/ throttle body, they need to be cleaned anyway. you can also use carb clean, brake clean, or even water to check for vacuum leaks, i think thats where he is going with that. don't torch your engine :D

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If you have a propane torch, you can turn it on (no flame) and poke it along the vacuum lines and intake manifold seams and other vacuum leak prone areas and if the gas finds the leak, the gas will get sucked in and burned, and the engine's idle will change.

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cool sounds like a plan. to bad i have to wait...on call till friday go on vacation saturday.

a few of the other related posts ive been reading people have been replacing a few of the related parts whats the liklyhood of having to get new parts mid project and whats the price and availability look like?

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If you have a propane torch, you can turn it on (no flame) and poke it along the vacuum lines and intake manifold seams and other vacuum leak prone areas and if the gas finds the leak, the gas will get sucked in and burned, and the engine's idle will change.

 

Neat, that's something I gotta remember.

 

Mine idles funny, but only in P and N. I'm going to replace my IAC, TPS and clean the whole shebang.

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  • 1 month later...

sorry can't get pics from the camera at the moment

 

it was one of the smaller hardlines on top all the way forward. it snapped bout half way through at a tight bend cut the section out and replaced with rubber vac line

 

wasnt so much in the way just a fragile spot in the line

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High idle problems are quite often related to the IAC, however; there is no way to test the IAC without the use of a special tool that not many people have other than a delaership or good service garage. The IAC can be a little expensive to change, especially when it may not be the problem--I learned the hard way :oops: .

 

Mine was going to to 3000-3500 RPM--I changed the TPS, IAC, o2 sensor, CTS, and MAP sensor to no avail. I finally found that it was a problem with the ground connection on the right side of the block where the battery ground connects with all of the major ground wires for the system. Be sure that your battery cables are good to start with, then check/remove/clean grounds, as these trucks are INCREDIBLY sensitive to ground issues.

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I just replaced my Batt Neg cable with one from 5-90 on NAXJA. The connection tests less than 1 ohm from batt neg to block ground. I replaced IACV and TPS, tightened as many manifold bolts as I could and it still idles very poorly.

 

Where does the IACV and TPS ground at?

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  • 2 weeks later...

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