akamcbird Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 still having problems... look down the page my truck idles to hi whats wrong?... ...so the water pump went out, i changed it and in the prosses i broke a couple of vacuum lines, repaired them and when i started her up my idle was sitting at about 1200rpm wen previously it ran at bout 6oo, and occationaly bounces between 3 and 4oorpm (close to dieing) rite after starting. its not a runon sentace if it doesnt start with a capital letter... any help would be much apreceated. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 Are you absolutely positive you repaired all the vacuum lines? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akamcbird Posted May 22, 2009 Author Share Posted May 22, 2009 yes. double and triple checked Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 Cleaned the IAC and throttle body lately? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akamcbird Posted May 24, 2009 Author Share Posted May 24, 2009 no. is that the next step? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 I would take this opportunity to do that. Use an o2 safe throttle body cleaner, an old toothbrush and some Q-tips to clean out any carbon buildup. I still think there's a vacuum leak somewhere. Do you have a propane torch handy? Or a can of starter fluid? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akamcbird Posted May 24, 2009 Author Share Posted May 24, 2009 have a mapp torch...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpdocdave Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 I would take this opportunity to do that. Use an o2 safe throttle body cleaner, an old toothbrush and some Q-tips to clean out any carbon buildup. I still think there's a vacuum leak somewhere. Do you have a propane torch handy? Or a can of starter fluid? i agree w/ throttle body, they need to be cleaned anyway. you can also use carb clean, brake clean, or even water to check for vacuum leaks, i think thats where he is going with that. don't torch your engine :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 If you have a propane torch, you can turn it on (no flame) and poke it along the vacuum lines and intake manifold seams and other vacuum leak prone areas and if the gas finds the leak, the gas will get sucked in and burned, and the engine's idle will change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akamcbird Posted May 25, 2009 Author Share Posted May 25, 2009 cool sounds like a plan. to bad i have to wait...on call till friday go on vacation saturday. a few of the other related posts ive been reading people have been replacing a few of the related parts whats the liklyhood of having to get new parts mid project and whats the price and availability look like? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigalpha Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 If you have a propane torch, you can turn it on (no flame) and poke it along the vacuum lines and intake manifold seams and other vacuum leak prone areas and if the gas finds the leak, the gas will get sucked in and burned, and the engine's idle will change. Neat, that's something I gotta remember. Mine idles funny, but only in P and N. I'm going to replace my IAC, TPS and clean the whole shebang. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akamcbird Posted July 3, 2009 Author Share Posted July 3, 2009 still having problems! cleaned the throttle body used the torch test to check for vac leaks and replaced the idle speed stepdown motor wich smoothed the idle but didnt bring it down so i leave it to you... whats wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aemsee Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 Just curious as to what vacuum lines would be in the way when doing a water pump repair? Any chance you could show us a picture of what you broke/ repaired? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akamcbird Posted July 4, 2009 Author Share Posted July 4, 2009 sorry can't get pics from the camera at the moment it was one of the smaller hardlines on top all the way forward. it snapped bout half way through at a tight bend cut the section out and replaced with rubber vac line wasnt so much in the way just a fragile spot in the line Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 High idle problems are quite often related to the IAC, however; there is no way to test the IAC without the use of a special tool that not many people have other than a delaership or good service garage. The IAC can be a little expensive to change, especially when it may not be the problem--I learned the hard way :oops: . Mine was going to to 3000-3500 RPM--I changed the TPS, IAC, o2 sensor, CTS, and MAP sensor to no avail. I finally found that it was a problem with the ground connection on the right side of the block where the battery ground connects with all of the major ground wires for the system. Be sure that your battery cables are good to start with, then check/remove/clean grounds, as these trucks are INCREDIBLY sensitive to ground issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akamcbird Posted July 5, 2009 Author Share Posted July 5, 2009 that was done b4 i posted this because i was neglecting the main terminals and leads so they were just replaced but i will reinspect these areas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigalpha Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 I just replaced my Batt Neg cable with one from 5-90 on NAXJA. The connection tests less than 1 ohm from batt neg to block ground. I replaced IACV and TPS, tightened as many manifold bolts as I could and it still idles very poorly. Where does the IACV and TPS ground at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akamcbird Posted July 8, 2009 Author Share Posted July 8, 2009 grounds look good any other probable causes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigalpha Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 How did you test the grounds? Did you test the ohms between Batt Neg and the ground? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aemsee Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 How did you test the grounds? Did you test the ohms between Batt Neg and the ground? Ohm test is not the best way to test. Voltage drop is better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigalpha Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 How do you test for voltage drop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbert001 Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 I had high idle issues after I swapped in a 1 piece shaft front axle. I didn't plug the lines before the first time I started it, and it idled super high. Check the lines that go to your vacum disco. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akamcbird Posted July 17, 2009 Author Share Posted July 17, 2009 shud my truk run/drive difernt if i disconect the tps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 It should still idle, but not very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akamcbird Posted July 17, 2009 Author Share Posted July 17, 2009 sorry let me be more spacific my truck still idlen bout 1500 rpm. and after disconecting the tps there is no change even after driven round the block. if the part worked some change could be noticed after unpluging it rite? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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