Leaking Radiator; Stray current in coolant

[ComancheBSJ90]

I was curious on what the normal is for stray current being present in our MJ's cooling system, and what likely will cause these currents and prevention or reducing stray current.

 

With a DVM when I put the positive lead in my over flow tank submersed in coolant and ground the negative lead to block I get 0.64 Volts, ignition ON&OFF. If I put one lead of DVM to radiator housing and other to block I get 0.23 Volts, ignition ON&OFF.

 

My new radiator is already leaking after 2 months from this electrolysis and I need to lower this stray current before I replace under warranty. I suspect the radiator guys with test for Stray current seeing how it started leaking so fast and tell me... sorry...

 

Are there any ground straps that are known issues.

 

Please you guys, it's an easy test with DVM or Analog volt meter test with ignition ON & OFF.

[aemsee]

Your coolant will actually produce a voltage based on the electrolytic reaction in the system. I highly doubt that that is what caused your new radiator to leak. It is present in all coolant. Where is the new radiator leaking from?

[jtdesigns]

I guess you could remove your batt cables and see if it drops any... I never heard of someone checking voltage in the coolant system before... It makes sense, but sounds kinda anal for the rad shop to use that as the reason it leaks..

[aemsee]

Not sure if I used the correct terminology in my post. I am trying to find the information on this. I remember learning about it in a class a LONG time ago. We were basically told that it can be used to check the mix level of the coolant.

[HOrnbrod]

I think stray current in the coolant is BS, but I've been wrong before. Several times in fact. :D The rad is supossedy electrically isulated; rubber hoses, rubber grommets on the lower pins, and rubber pads on the top fasteners. Mine is. If you're getting a voltage reading in your coolant, I suspect it's being backfed into the coolant from the engine block because of bad chassis/engine grounds.

[ComancheBSJ90]

I did check the coolant with the positive cable removed from battery and I get about 0.56 volts. Also, with the positive battery cable removed if I put the negative end of DVM in coolant and positive end on + battery terminal I get 12.70 volts, close to what I get if I test the battery for voltage.

 

If the radiator is isolated from the truck electrical ground what good is it if the coolant grounds it anyway, as noted above?

 

There are two leaks on right/left side of rad. where the small coolant channels enter the tank both at the top. Pin holes with white-ish corrosion.

 

I assume then that if electrolysis is creating a 0.56 volt and with the battery connected I get 0.64 volts then I have 0.12 stray current or maybe the battery strengthens the reaction. Research I did, some say under .5volts is acceptable others say anything over 0.05volts is unacceptable.

 

man, this is confusing me. I think then I will get the new rad, flush the system out, install, then retest!

[garmj]

Electrolysis is created by dissimilar metals used in the cooling system such as aluminum,steel,cast iron and copper. It is always present in a cooling system. With proper maintanance and proper coolant corrosion problems are unheard of in a 2 month period of time. Since we are talking about 12v insulated from the outside world (sitting on rubber tires) this would be an very minor problem. The PH of the coolant would be a greater issue,acidicty or alkalinity will act much faster on weaker metals,there are test strips available to test this.I would look there first,could be the water you are using or a contaminated coolant .

[garmj]

BTW use the PH strips on the coolant and the water before you install it. You can flush the cooling sytem with water and baking soda to neutralize the system then install a mix of coolant and distilled water (if you have crappy water) and you will be good to go. I have seen this problem in Fl because of well water. Hope this helps.

[HOrnbrod]

I just tested, readings below.

 

With a DVM when I put the positive lead in my over flow tank submersed in coolant and ground the negative lead to block I get 0.64 Volts, ignition ON&OFF.

 

.25V

 

If I put one lead of DVM to radiator housing and other to block I get 0.23 Volts, ignition ON&OFF.

 

.04V

[ComancheBSJ90]

Electrolysis is created by dissimilar metals used in the cooling system such as aluminum,steel,cast iron and copper. It is always present in a cooling system. With proper maintenance and proper coolant corrosion problems are unheard of in a 2 month period of time. Since we are talking about 12v insulated from the outside world (sitting on rubber tires) this would be an very minor problem. The PH of the coolant would be a greater issue, acidity or alkalinity will act much faster on weaker metals,there are test strips available to test this.I would look there first,could be the water you are using or a contaminated coolant .

 

 

OK. I'll buy distilled water, good coolant, pH test strips, baking soda, and my new radiator, flush the system till I can drink it, then retest and hopefully my results will be closer to hornbrods'

 

Yes, the H20 I was using was tap water and coolant was from Canadian Tire.

[jtdesigns]

Just a note but I like to get my coolant from advanced. Its made by Prestone but just in an Advanced jug..

[Wildman]

Just a note but I like to get my coolant from advanced. Its made by Prestone but just in an Advanced jug..

 

Another reason to use pre-mixed coolant :D

[watchamakalit]

Just a note but I like to get my coolant from advanced. Its made by Prestone but just in an Advanced jug..

 

Another reason to use pre-mixed coolant :D

Yea if you wanna pay twice as much for the same amount of product. :roll:

[jtdesigns]

Just a note but I like to get my coolant from advanced. Its made by Prestone but just in an Advanced jug..

 

Another reason to use pre-mixed coolant :D

I mix my own coolant,, I can get a gallon of distilled water from wallyworld for .67 bucks!! The mix was somewhere around 7 bucks,, the non mix was 10, so the better deal is me mixing it + it lets me play chemist.. :yes:

[Eagle]

Just a note but I like to get my coolant from advanced. Its made by Prestone but just in an Advanced jug..

 

Another reason to use pre-mixed coolant :D

I mix my own coolant,, I can get a gallon of distilled water from wallyworld for .67 bucks!! The mix was somewhere around 7 bucks,, the non mix was 10, so the better deal is me mixing it + it lets me play chemist.. :yes:

+1.

 

Pre-mixed is a marketing scam. A gallon of pre-mix is 50% glycol but you pay about 90% the cost of a gallon of pure glycol. Wal-Mart has sold distilled water for 69 cents/gallon for years. That's all I use in my cooling systems. I save the old jugs and make up my own 50/50 "pre-mixed" to carry in the vehicles for emergencies. I just use a black grease marker to mark those jugs "50/50".

[vaquaro]

I know the nights are very long up there .....If the rad leaks , the supplier will replace it ( NAPA ,CTC ,Lordco ) ,I've never heard of anyone having the warranty refused for "stray current " issues ?? :hmm: .....I'm bettin' you plug-in the block heater every day ....just food for thought :roll:

[Wildman]

Just a note but I like to get my coolant from advanced. Its made by Prestone but just in an Advanced jug..

 

Another reason to use pre-mixed coolant :D

I mix my own coolant,, I can get a gallon of distilled water from wallyworld for .67 bucks!! The mix was somewhere around 7 bucks,, the non mix was 10, so the better deal is me mixing it + it lets me play chemist.. :yes:

 

Well.......I'm not disagreeing with any one on this........but........

 

I stop in Sam's Club (Wally World's big brother) and pick up Prestone on the shelf, pre-mixed 50/50 for like $5.67 /gallon, get 6 at a time, and just pour and go :D

 

At one time I used full strength and rain water.......then read up that the best option was the pre-mix, so I'll not play chemist, and get-er-done.

 

I agree that at the parts store, you can pay more for 50/50, like if Advance don't have it on sale.......and I once laughed at the guy at the counter at a Napa, cause he wanted $10 /gallon for 50/50.

[j440]

My XJ has .26 but my coolant is only about 2 months old. The heater core has never been changed. The radiator went out at over 100K. I have been mixing with well water for over 20 years and never had a problem. I recall that when I was in college in 2002 (NAFTA) that a story was told of a Taurus that would deposit the heater core in the block or radiator in just a few months. :eek:

[jtdesigns]

Just a note but I like to get my coolant from advanced. Its made by Prestone but just in an Advanced jug..

 

Another reason to use pre-mixed coolant :D

I mix my own coolant,, I can get a gallon of distilled water from wallyworld for .67 bucks!! The mix was somewhere around 7 bucks,, the non mix was 10, so the better deal is me mixing it + it lets me play chemist.. :yes:

 

Well.......I'm not disagreeing with any one on this........but........

 

I stop in Sam's Club (Wally World's big brother) and pick up Prestone on the shelf, pre-mixed 50/50 for like $5.67 /gallon, get 6 at a time, and just pour and go :D

 

At one time I used full strength and rain water.......then read up that the best option was the pre-mix, so I'll not play chemist, and get-er-done.

 

I agree that at the parts store, you can pay more for 50/50, like if Advance don't have it on sale.......and I once laughed at the guy at the counter at a Napa, cause he wanted $10 /gallon for 50/50.

Yes $5.67 is the better deal.. I just have to drive 45 mins to the nearest Sams Club,, + I don't have a membership.. :(

But I always hear good things about Sams Club..

[Wildman]

+ I don't have a membership.. :(

 

Well.......we can solve that :D

 

You can join under my business account.......and BJ's to if you want :banana:

 

Course........I prefer BJ's over Sam's, but they just don't handle alot of the auto supples :(

 

I know......... :offtopic:

 

:doh:

[HOrnbrod]

Yesterday I changed out the stat and hoses then filled with fresh 50/50 Prestone/distilled water mix. My voltage reading (+ in overflow tank, - to ground) is now .41V. That's higher than the before reading of .25V.

 

In reading articles concerning coolant electrolysis this is normal when first changing out the solution until it stabilizes after a week or so. I'm going to keep my eye on this.

[HOrnbrod]

Checked it again this evening - it now down to .09V. Interesting. The Aussies seem to think the higher the voltage generated by electrolysis, the more corrosion will happen in your cooling system, especially affecting aluminum radiators. I'm not sure, but it kind of makes sense, like maintaining the correct ph in your fish tank. :eek: