project88mj Posted November 21, 2008 Share Posted November 21, 2008 hey guys i got a DW from 53ish-67ish then after that it smooth out now i got $400 to use ant try to fix the prolbem NO MORE than $400 #1-----so i hear a lot about the track bar do i need to replace the bar or some bushing on one of the ends. #2-----i put 2" spacers on the front and never got it aligned and the truck pulls to the right (this could be it but less likely) #3-----there is a little bar that goes from the steering box to the linkage at the end of the bar is a ball jount i heard a bump when i turned the wheel at a stop looked under there and saw a little play in the joint (i assume that it should be tight) #4----- i need to get new shocks. I'm really sure mine are shot what should i get (keep in mind the 2" spacers) :dunno: :hmm: your limit is $400 what to do to try and fix my DEATH WOBBLE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted November 21, 2008 Share Posted November 21, 2008 hey guys i got a DW from 53ish-67ish then after that it smooth out #1-----so i hear a lot about the track bar do i need to replace the bar or some bushing on one of the ends. #2-----i put 2" spacers on the front and never got it aligned and the truck pulls to the right (this could be it but less likely) #3-----there is a little bar that goes from the steering box to the linkage at the end of the bar is a ball jount i heard a bump when i turned the wheel at a stop looked under there and saw a little play in the joint (i assume that it should be tight) #4----- i need to get new shocks. I'm really sure mine are shot what should i get (keep in mind the 2" spacers) ] WOW, you covered MOST of the DW problems in one fell swoop!!! I am NOT SUPRISED you got DW!!! #1 Fact TB's are not adj OR repairable. GO BUY A NEW ONE. 40-60$ #2 So you KNOW ther allignment is off yet are suprised you have DW problems??? GO GET IT ALLIGNED!!! 60-80$ #3 The bar is called a Drag link. The Ball joint on the top IS REPLACEABLE. If there is movement, REPLACE IT!!! 25-40$ #4 You know they are bad how? Has someone seen the front wheels bounce at speed? Have you done a jounce test? What shocks do you have out back? Are they good or bad as well? You shouldnt mix TYPES of shocks, IE gas and Hydraulic. I hesatate to tell you to go get the prefered GAS shock if you have good Hydraulics in the rear.... Check it out and get back to us. But ultimeately, if they are bad tyou NEED NEW ONES!! A YJ front shock will be about 2" longer and fit your application perfectly. (FRONT ONLY!!) Hydraulics 25-50$ EA Gas 30-100$ EA. The prices I quoted are what I am able to buy the parts for around here. Likely very close to what you can get them for. I am also assuming YOU will be installing as instilation fees will elevate this cost considerably. Now go read up on DW posts, you have been on here long enough to have recognized your conditions and MAJOR culprits of DW. OOH, one more thing, TRUE DW dosent "smooth out" Its a white knuckle, piss you pants, NEVER want to have happen again experience. That isnt over untill you have come to a complete stop and gotten out to check if all of you MJ is still bolted together. :yes: :eek: CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted November 21, 2008 Share Posted November 21, 2008 I would think at that speed you need to check the balance of your tires, and your alinement. Just cause not only in Jeeps but most other vehicles at that speed will show some sort of shimmy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watchamakalit Posted November 21, 2008 Share Posted November 21, 2008 hey guys i got a DW from 53ish-67ish then after that it smooth out ] OOH, one more thing, TRUE DW dosent "smooth out" Its a white knuckle, piss you pants, NEVER want to have happen again experience. That isnt over untill you have come to a complete stop and gotten out to check if all of you MJ is still bolted together. :yes: :eek: CW Those 2 statements say it all. Granted maybe its not as bad in a MJ but I had a case of true DW in my CJ about a year ago and let me tell you the last thing on your mind is accelerating. If you truly have DW you cannot steer the vehicle the wheel will shake violently enough to break you arms before you can stop it. The only way to stop true DW once it is in action is to stop the vehicle. That being said I belive you have a shimmy in the front end, not DW, if that is the case go get your tires balanced and rotated. Should cure it. If that don't do it start looking at loose front end components. If you know you have issues in the front end you need to fix them DW or not. Loose front end parts are worn front end parts and worn front end parts mean it could be my kids in the on coming car you hit when those front end parts break and you can't control you vehicle. Sorry if I come across as being a fool but IMHO there are 2 things on vehicles that should NEVER be ignored one is steering and the other is breaks. You are posing a risk to everyone on the road by doing so. And I prefer to be the only one who can gamble with my life. Watch"they call me captain safety"amakalit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted November 21, 2008 Share Posted November 21, 2008 I say get the alignment done, have the wheels balanced and replace the wobbling tie rod end and see what you have after that. :cheers: As already said...if it smooths out...it's not DW, just a bad vibe ;). If not attended to it could turn in to DW though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 21, 2008 Share Posted November 21, 2008 I don't think you have death wobble. I think you have shimmy caused by tire balance. Let's be clear about what death wobble is. Death wobble is called that because it's SO severe that when it kicks in, you pee your pants and you KNOW you're going to die before you can stop the vehicle. If you had death wobble kick in at 53 MPH, there is no way on God's green earth that yu would or could keep driving through it long enough to get over 67 MPH and have it smoth out. Quite frankly, you would lose control of the vehicle and crash long before you got to 67 MPH. You don't drive through death wobble until it smooths out. The only way to stop death wobble is to stop the vehicle, or nearly stop it (meaning getting down to about 15 MPH or less). Have your tires balanced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted November 21, 2008 Share Posted November 21, 2008 Have your tires balanced. Chances are your bad alignment screwed the tires up pretty good. Get it aligned, you can try balancing them, but I wouldn't be surprised if you need good ones. Doing the alignment yourself is pretty easy... and free! http://www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted November 21, 2008 Share Posted November 21, 2008 Have your tires balanced. Chances are your bad alignment screwed the tires up pretty good. Get it aligned, you can try balancing them, but I wouldn't be surprised if you need good ones. Doing the alignment yourself is pretty easy... and free! http://www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html That is only a toe & steering adjustment...not a complete alignment though ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 21, 2008 Share Posted November 21, 2008 Have your tires balanced. Chances are your bad alignment screwed the tires up pretty good. Get it aligned, you can try balancing them, but I wouldn't be surprised if you need good ones. Doing the alignment yourself is pretty easy... and free! http://www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html That is only a toe & steering adjustment...not a complete alignment though ;) Correct. And caster angle is important in solid front axle vehicles. Insufficient caster WILL allow death wobble to show its ugly face. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garmj Posted November 21, 2008 Share Posted November 21, 2008 I have had that DEATH WOBBLE in several vehicles I have had and several I have worked on, it generally occurs at below 45 mph and will quit when you slow down or stab the brakes (it will make you piss your pants the first time). Always occurs on trucks with oversize tires and usually worn front end parts are involved,sometimes just a steering stabilizer will cure it. Look for worn tie rods ends, drag link,or steering box if those are OK then add or replace the steering stabilizer, they are a dual action shock and they wear. Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted November 21, 2008 Share Posted November 21, 2008 ,sometimes just a steering stabilizer will cure it.Sorry, but please do not believe that. A steering stabilizer will NEVER cure death wobble...nor will it cause it. Most (not all) Jeeps with 35" or smaller tires can actually do without a stabilizer and never know the difference...I know this as I have tested it on both leaf sprung and coil sprung Jeeps :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redramman Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 :agree: with most of what has been said. Also try rotating tires (tire shop should do this anyway when they balance them).Replace trackbar and worn tie rod,buy some mono tube gas shocks.Steering stabilizer will not fix front end problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
project88mj Posted November 22, 2008 Author Share Posted November 22, 2008 went to the alignment shop and they said they would not do the tire balance and alignment for me because guess what they saw that my tie rod end was bad and track bar was bad :D now i know where to spend money :( too bad the will never be the last time i say that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 When I had DW in my '86, I jam on the brakes (if no-one is behind me) and then accel and it disappears till I drop to "that" speed range. New tracbar (didn't help), ZJ tierods, etc (only helped a little). Balljoints checked out okay. Didn't have the $$ for a tracbar drop kit. (on my '87 I got an adjustable tracbar for $100 from Superlift) Adding spacers to the lower control arm to push it @ 1/2" forwards (the big bolt and 3 bolts on the back side need to be loosened for this) which rotated the axle back to the same position it was in before the 3" lift. (fixed the driveline angle too) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 Adding spacers to the lower control arm to push it @ 1/2" forwards (the big bolt and 3 bolts on the back side need to be loosened for this) which rotated the axle back to the same position it was in before the 3" lift. (fixed the driveline angle too)That is called Caster adjustment which is what Eagle said above ;)It can be accomplished with spacers or a lift kit with adjustable control arms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 Adding spacers to the lower control arm to push it @ 1/2" forwards (the big bolt and 3 bolts on the back side need to be loosened for this) which rotated the axle back to the same position it was in before the 3" lift. (fixed the driveline angle too)That is called Caster adjustment which is what Eagle said above ;)It can be accomplished with spacers or a lift kit with adjustable control arms. I did the extended arms on my '87 when I did the 5 1/2" lift to clear 33/9.50/15 tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
project88mj Posted November 22, 2008 Author Share Posted November 22, 2008 so i replaced the trackbar and the draglink balljoint waysmoother now but still i got a small shimmy so next week i will get my tires balanced and alignment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 so i replaced the trackbar and the draglink balljoint waysmoother now but still i got a small shimmy so next week i will get my tires balanced and alignment I just KNEW you could do it!! :thumbsup: CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
project88mj Posted November 23, 2008 Author Share Posted November 23, 2008 thanks :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 check out your steering stabilizer too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
project88mj Posted November 23, 2008 Author Share Posted November 23, 2008 i felt no reststance from it when i had the drag bar off the pitman arm and tried to move it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted November 27, 2008 Share Posted November 27, 2008 So, Its all fixed?? CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
project88mj Posted November 27, 2008 Author Share Posted November 27, 2008 found out i got a -1 degree caster on the front left Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 I can't remember if that means you add a shim or take one out (from behind the lower control arm rear bracket) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
project88mj Posted November 28, 2008 Author Share Posted November 28, 2008 what shims do you speak of sir? i thought you could olny align the toe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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