TajMan Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 Help me fix newest problem plz. I turn off and take my key out, truck keeps running and brake lights etc on dash stay on! I've had to unplug connector on ignition coil to kill the engine. Lights on dash still drain battery. I replaced my headlight switch last week, but this problem cropped up after.. '87 Comanche Pioneer 4X4 I6 automatic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 Sounds like a bad ignition switch to me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 Maybe use a Ford solenoid on the positive battery cable to install a kill switch? Only down side is, it will reset your clock and radio when you use it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BREEZE1 Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 We use to have a lawn mower to do this. So what you had to do is keep a stick in your back pocket so you could pull the spark plug wire off of it while it was running. This is an easy fix just keep a stick in your truck so you can knock the wire off of your distributer. Or if you can't find a good stick you could always rap your fingers in ducktape! :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watchamakalit Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 Why not just fix the problem? Everyone complains that their junk has all these issues but nobody wants to step up and fix them properly. Rant over thanks. I am with Brent on this one. It is the ignition switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TajMan Posted October 16, 2008 Author Share Posted October 16, 2008 Why not just fix the problem? Everyone complains that their junk has all these issues but nobody wants to step up and fix them properly. Rant over thanks. I am with Brent on this one. It is the ignition switch. Thats what I want, fix right, ignition switch then huh.. I already shocked the hell out of myself when I pulled the ignition coil spark plug wire off with my bare hands. I just did an ignition switch on a 95 Camaro and it was HELL, never want to do again. MJ anything like that, steering wheel removal? In this case I almost would just put a kill switch on battery though.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 It is located on the lower part of the steering column..fairly easy to get to :cheers: . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akula69 Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 It is located on the lower part of the steering column..fairly easy to get to :cheers: . Yeah - its pretty easy but make sure you take your time and remember how each piece was arranged for easier re-assembly. Steps: 1) Remove negative battery lead. 2) Take lower dash panel off. 3) Loosen two nuts that hold the steering column bracket to the dash. You will also probably need to remove the left (driver's side) kick panel and loosen the bolts holding the stability bars that are also attached to the steering column bracket. 4) Look for a small (1/4 inch) rod that rests on the top of the steering column. This actuator rod is attached to the key inside the column and the other end actually operates the ignition module. There may be up to three rods, (the other two you might have would be one for the floor shifter, one for the high beam switch).This module is roughly rectangular in shape, the plug side faces towards the transmission hump, and will have two plugs inserted in it. 5) Carefully observe how the module and all associated plugs, screws and rods are attached, then remove them and replace in the same order. finis ! HTH :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robfg67 Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 I just replaced my ignition switch last week. It was $35 from the Jeep Dealership. There is a good write-up about 1/4 way down on this page: http://www.lunghd.com/On_Site_Tech.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooSteeler Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 I just replaced my ignition switch last week. It was $35 from the Jeep Dealership. There is a good write-up about 1/4 way down on this page: http://www.lunghd.com/On_Site_Tech.htm I was gonna say check around, you might be surprised what someone will do it for. I had to replace the actual key switch on my 87 the I sold and got it done for under $100. Also, check with Wildman, he's pretty experienced with steering column/ignition issues etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BREEZE1 Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 I was just giving a good ol redneck answer to the situation!!! My self I wouldn’t have wasted my time typing about it, unless it was to joke around or make fun of my truck. The easiest thing to do is go to autozone or where ever you choose swipe the ol debit card and and BOOOOM you got the problem solved. we are just have'n fun! have a brew dawgie :cheers: CHILL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooSteeler Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 I was just giving a good ol redneck answer to the situation!!! My self I wouldn’t have wasted my time typing about it, unless it was to joke around or make fun of my truck. The easiest thing to do is go to autozone or where ever you choose swipe the ol debit card and and BOOOOM you got the problem solved. we are just have'n fun! have a brew dawgie :cheers: CHILL Uhhhh, I don't know about anyone else, but I don't see where anybody busted your chops for your post?? It was obvious it was a joke. :nuts: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TajMan Posted November 15, 2008 Author Share Posted November 15, 2008 REPLACED IGNITION SWITCH, $12 autozone part. 1 of the wires was corroded and connector slightly melted, I thought oh this is the problem for sure. Put in new Duralast switch, fixed connector on the 1 wire. First time I used car, started and turned off correctly right away, I thought yay fixed. Once I got home from AutoZone, turned off key and TRUCK KEPT RUNNING!!! Problem still occurring!!! H E L P ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 15, 2008 Share Posted November 15, 2008 Did you fry the new switch too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TajMan Posted November 15, 2008 Author Share Posted November 15, 2008 New switch is in there and I'm sure its good. Problem lies elsewhere! My truck is an electrical mess BTW! Problem occurred hit and miss before, seems to be the same now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summerinmaine Posted November 15, 2008 Share Posted November 15, 2008 I agree with the posts that suggest you find the problem and fix it right. But . . . if you want to do a kill switch, you don't need to interrupt the battery circuit. All my bikes have kill switches (well, at least six of them do), and they just install a switch that cuts off power to the coil. I imagine there's a similar point in the MJ ignition circuit that you could wire, and it would leave power to clock, radio, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TajMan Posted November 16, 2008 Author Share Posted November 16, 2008 Drains battery if I kill engine by stopping coil, but don't disconnect battery. I'd require 2 switches, 1 on ignition coil wire to kill engine, and 1 on battery (with solenoid no doubt) to turn off that power and not drain battery. Not feasible. I need to fix right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summerinmaine Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 Drains battery if I kill engine by stopping coil, but don't disconnect battery. I'd require 2 switches, 1 on ignition coil wire to kill engine, and 1 on battery (with solenoid no doubt) to turn off that power and not drain battery. Not feasible. I need to fix right. Yep. Indeed you do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TajMan Posted November 16, 2008 Author Share Posted November 16, 2008 Ok, where do wires from ignition switch go to on the other end? Specifically the rather large brown wire on the larger blue connector that plugs into ignition switch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 Ok, where do wires from ignition switch go to on the other end?Specifically the rather large brown wire on the larger blue connector that plugs into ignition switch? I think brent posted a link to the electrical FSM in the diy section. ill check here it is: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12734 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazjeeper Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 I had this problem on different XJ's one time it was the key ignition another time it was the relay under the hood on the right had side for the ignition.( or pasinger side) the wires had been wet so many times that they just would ark and would not shut off. had to replace the hole box and leads to solve problem. something to look at. good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TajMan Posted November 16, 2008 Author Share Posted November 16, 2008 I had this problem on different XJ's one time it was the key ignition another time it was the relay under the hood on the right had side for the ignition.( or pasinger side) the wires had been wet so many times that they just would ark and would not shut off. had to replace the hole box and leads to solve problem.something to look at. good luck THANK YOU! Issue fixed. I took out relays under the hood. Cleaned like 3 of them that had been wet and/or real corroded. Some of them were REAL bad I probably found the terminal, that was coming from other end of corroded brown wire on the ignition switch. Take note for future, IGNITION SWITCH AND IGNITION RELAY People should check connections/clean these before just replacing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now