DirtyComanche Posted August 13, 2006 Author Share Posted August 13, 2006 Oh, it sits too tall, I'll need to pull the extra over-load leaf from each side. OR maybe both of them, and then check flex and bumpstop as needed. Shock mount mockup will start tomorrow, I hope. Also, I spent some time in the jyard. I actually went there to look at propane parts, but was pretty much SOL because they'd crushed a bunch... Anyways, I got a GM HEI dist from a van with a 250 in it. I didn't realize it at the time, but the cap is damaged, which is probably why the van wound up in the yard (there's no way it would fire). I will go and swap the cap or maybe even buy some new parts. I grabbed a renix intake manifold, just to see if I can easily modify it to suit my needs. I'd say it doesn't look promising. I will probably bend up some pipe and make a custom manifold. I also bought a spare E-fan. It was cheap. And lebaron hood vents... Don't ask me why! And some comanche decals out of impulse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 13, 2006 Share Posted August 13, 2006 Why did you add an extra overload (the big thick one at the bottom) leaf? I don't advise eliminating them completely, as they are the best defense against spring-wrap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted August 13, 2006 Share Posted August 13, 2006 Dirty- On your D44, try unscrewing the "ring", that should be the bearing retainer ring, and the "holes" in the ring is for a special wrench. I have a D60 on my DD and found the same thing, and just installed couple of drif pins in the holes to remove it, and its the old hand tighten, and back off 1/4 turn to reinstall the retainer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted August 13, 2006 Author Share Posted August 13, 2006 Aparently it comes out by slipping a pick behind it and pulling it. It won't unscrew. Oh, and I had two overload leafs because I was cheap and wanted it to sit slightly taller. As far as the spring wrap goes... Well, we'll see. I might try the ford exploder mains, because the one main is bent anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 13, 2006 Share Posted August 13, 2006 Speaking of exploders, I now have two sets of 4-leaf packs to play with. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted August 13, 2006 Author Share Posted August 13, 2006 Well, whatta ya know, if you use a pick those things come right off... Wag axle almost completely stripped. I'll take the outers off sometime soon, then cut the tubes right at the inner C's, then cut the tubes out of the inner C's. Image Not Found Going to work on the HPD44... Something's missing. Image Not Found Just a reference for me. Image Not Found Both off. As you can see, my 'small persuader' is standing ready. Image Not Found I also cut my horrid rear bumper off (truck looks WAY better) and started messing with my shock mounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted August 14, 2006 Share Posted August 14, 2006 I just have a few comments. Why did you make your spring mounts so tall, and with no triangulation? This will cause major spring wrap. The UBE's look cool, I just hope that plate is thick enough, I see some one all ready answered your how to get the retainer ring out for you :brows: been there done that. I am still unclear as to why you cut the C's off one axle to install on another... can I get some clarifcation on it please? I should get some more work done On casper today.. I will post some pics myself later tonight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted August 15, 2006 Author Share Posted August 15, 2006 The UBE's aren't done, that's still mockup. I was looking at my ford spring plates and realized making them out of 1/2" plate would be less elegant than would make any sense... So, they will be getting some ribbing when I pull them off, and clean off the whole axle and finish all of the welding and such. The spiring mounts were taller because I screwed up. Bascially. I wasn't enough of a man with the hole saw when I made them. They're actually only about 3/4" taller than the ones on my 8.8 - which means I can pull a overload and it should be fine. And about them having no triangulation, who the heck am I supposed to? They're long enough, and welded along the outsides, insides, and the bottom of the HSS (well, when I do totally final weld them). Making them any longer is without benefit, see the stupid thread in the tech section if you want a farther exp. Oh, and part of the reason it looked so much taller was I hadn't set the shackles in place and then raised the front. The weight is not on the springs correctly as it is. And the reason I cut the C's off the HPD44 was because they were in my way. The tubes will now be chop-sawed to waggy width. I will use the C's off the waggy axle because it has ball-joints in it, and I could not remove the C's from the ford axle without damaging them. (it was them or the tubes, and I need the tubes to be the same length as stock so I can measure them correctly for cutting) Also, I need to set pinon angle and caster anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hot Rod Jeep Posted August 15, 2006 Share Posted August 15, 2006 Yeah I saw too where the washer between the nuts question already got answered. I have a pick set that's very handy just for that. I have a couple questions. First, what is the measurement of a waggy front tierod/draglink set up? And before anyone asks I want a wide track version. I need to know the measurement from knuckle to knuckle to see it it'll fit in a Chevy 44 front. I don't have the money for a right side flat top knuckle and a high steer arm to hook up my steering and I don't want to rig it because of safety. If it'll work I'll be hunting one of those then. Next question. For those that have done a leaf spring conversion can you bolt the rear of the front spring directly into the existing hole in the LCA or do you have to redrill it? I was told over the weekend you have to redrill the hole because if you don't it pushes the steering too far forward. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Shawn. 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted August 15, 2006 Share Posted August 15, 2006 I was just wondering why you were not running them full width. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepmj_tj Posted August 15, 2006 Share Posted August 15, 2006 Yeah I saw too where the washer between the nuts question already got answered. I have a pick set that's very handy just for that. I have a couple questions. First, what is the measurement of a waggy front tierod/draglink set up? And before anyone asks I want a wide track version. I need to know the measurement from knuckle to knuckle to see it it'll fit in a Chevy 44 front. I don't have the money for a right side flat top knuckle and a high steer arm to hook up my steering and I don't want to rig it because of safety. If it'll work I'll be hunting one of those then. Next question. For those that have done a leaf spring conversion can you bolt the rear of the front spring directly into the existing hole in the LCA or do you have to redrill it? I was told over the weekend you have to redrill the hole because if you don't it pushes the steering too far forward. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Shawn. 8) I had to redrill a new hole further back. It was roughly 1 inch further back and 1/2-3/4 closer to the bottom, if i recall currectly. Also it needs to be drilled offset so the front of the springs don't toe out. I used YJ lift springs and this allowed the tire to be somewhat centered in the wheelwell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted August 15, 2006 Author Share Posted August 15, 2006 First, what is the measurement of a waggy front tierod/draglink set up? And before anyone asks I want a wide track version. I need to know the measurement from knuckle to knuckle to see it it'll fit in a Chevy 44 front. I don't have the money for a right side flat top knuckle and a high steer arm to hook up my steering and I don't want to rig it because of safety. If it'll work I'll be hunting one of those then. Sorry, can't help you. This is a N/T axle. It's only 61.5" WMS-WMS. But, if you want I'll make a mental note of it. I'm going to be visiting a certain W/T cherokee to borrow the passenger side knuckle at some point here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hot Rod Jeep Posted August 16, 2006 Share Posted August 16, 2006 JeepMJ_TJ, thanks for the input on the holes. I'll make sure to drill the holes so the springs are straight. Dirty, yeah if you don't care get a measurement for me. I'm bout ready to just say the heck with it and try to find a flat top knuckle for my steering. I was just trying to find a safe and cheap alternative. 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hot Rod Jeep Posted August 16, 2006 Share Posted August 16, 2006 Hey Dirty, you don't mind me basicly copying what you'e done do you? If not, can I get some measurements for the steel? It looks like you went all flat stock instead of angle. Was that a better way to go? I'm gonna buy my steel pretty soon so maybe I can start on my front. Thanks, Shawn. 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted August 17, 2006 Author Share Posted August 17, 2006 I don't mind copying at all. It's actually the smart way to do these things... I stole the idea for the crossmember from BrettM origonally, even though it looks nothing like his. Anyways, it's all flat stock because I wished to build a drop out tray for the winch. To use a peice of angle would have been impractical as I'd have to make a pretty major amount of cuts in it. Also, the peice of angle I really wanted (6x8x.250, IIRC) is not avaliable, and would have to be broke. So, it was just easier to use flat and weld it all together. As far as the actual mesurements go, well, I'd suggest you draw your own diagrams and figure them out! I doubt you would make it exactly like mine, nor want to. And in retrospect, this is NOT the best design. However, the main peice accross the front is 35" of 6x.250 FB. The tie-in plates on the outsides are 12" of 6x.250 FB each. The one inside tie-in is 6" of 4x.250FB. They other side is about 4.5" of 2"x.250 FB (Clearing the steering box gets things ugly, unless you're willing to move it.) I REALLY suggest you go out there with a tape measure and make a drawing/diagram. Then post it for criticism. :cheers: Oh, and don't forget the leaf hangers at the other end. I still have to go pick up the steel for those. Tomorrow hopefully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hot Rod Jeep Posted August 17, 2006 Share Posted August 17, 2006 Kewl, thanks for all the measurements. So I take it the winch is short enough to tuck under the radiator or otherwise you wouldn't have done that. Have you made the drop out tray yet? I'm just curious to how wide the bottom plate has to be. Don't worry, I'll pull lots of measurements before things are welded into place. As far as the rear of the front springs, I plan on using the factory LCA mounts with a little adjusting. 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted August 17, 2006 Author Share Posted August 17, 2006 I have the tray... clearance is a b*@$£. I don't remember the measurements. You CAN'T run the stock mechanical fan. It won't clear. And that opens up another can of worms. This is where the "I'd do it differently next time" part comes in. The tray also has to be dropped slightly so the winch will clear the lower rad support. And you need a small winch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hot Rod Jeep Posted August 17, 2006 Share Posted August 17, 2006 I can't run a mechanical fan anyways, it won't clear the hood. I'm running a Jeep 360 in mine. I might build an external mount winch plate, I haven't got that far yet. 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted August 17, 2006 Author Share Posted August 17, 2006 I'd go external. You'll probably want to have as much space avaliable for radiators and fans anyways. Unless they're going in the back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hot Rod Jeep Posted August 17, 2006 Share Posted August 17, 2006 External mount would be alot easier room wise, but I really like the clean look of internal. I'll let you know what I do when I get that far. 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOMJ87 Posted August 17, 2006 Share Posted August 17, 2006 You could put a reese hitch up front and have the mount for the winch go in that. Then you have the clean look and the room plus it could be setup to work front or rear. Just an Idea. Cole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted August 17, 2006 Share Posted August 17, 2006 The whole portable winch thing is a novel concept, except that it hurts approach and depature angles, and they are not exaclty light so moving them front to rear.. isnt exactly easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted August 18, 2006 Author Share Posted August 18, 2006 The whole portable winch thing is a novel concept, except that it hurts approach and depature angles, and they are not exaclty light so moving them front to rear.. isnt exactly easy. And they really aren't light when you're in mud up to your eyeballs! You could make the reciever for it high enough that it wouldn't hurt approach/departure (other than when it's on). I'm still not big on having things not hard mounted though. As I said, mud to your eyeballs... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hot Rod Jeep Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 You could put a reese hitch up front and have the mount for the winch go in that. Then you have the clean look and the room plus it could be setup to work front or rear. Just an Idea. Cole Yeah I didn't think of that. I might do that once I get that far. Right now I'm just trying to get the rear under it. 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOMJ87 Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 The whole portable winch thing is a novel concept, except that it hurts approach and depature angles, and they are not exaclty light so moving them front to rear.. isnt exactly easy. And they really aren't light when you're in mud up to your eyeballs! You could make the reciever for it high enough that it wouldn't hurt approach/departure (other than when it's on). I'm still not big on having things not hard mounted though. As I said, mud to your eyeballs... That is true but i was thinking about if you put the hitch kinda inside the bumper like alot of rear bumpers are done so it really wouldnt be in the way. But the whole mud to the eyeballs would cause a couple of issues especially when your teying to do anything to your truck in that situation.I thought it would be more like before you go wheeling slap it on but driving it as a DD in town you can stick it in the garage. Cole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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