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My latest axle build/swap and front leaf conversion


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Poor boy driveshaft time:

 

 

A couple of the donors:

 

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The poor boy chop saw method of cutting down the tubes:

 

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Hacked off:

 

 

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The tube was left to allow me to slip a peice of pipe over it. Yes, I am going to build a pipe driveshaft. 2" Sch40 is 2.01~ ID, so it'll fit over the 2" tube really nice.

 

 

Removing the balancing weight so I can cut it down:

 

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Who needs a balanced driveshaft anyways?

 

 

Finished as of tonight:

 

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I'll pick up my pipe tomorrow and give it a shot. Worst case scenario I just destoryed a $30 driveshaft. I've made bigger mistakes.

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Uh, I made two beautiful driveshafts.

 

 

Top speed is probably going to be about 20.

 

 

I also cut down and sleeved my tie-rod, threw it on the front axle. Which also is now geared, FINIALLY.

 

 

Only two things that are holding me up is I can't get a reamer for my pitman arm (might have to booty fab this...) and I don't have a drill bit larger than 3/4. I have holes saws, but, they don't work when you're trying to enlarge a hole. So, I'll go out and buy a step-bit and some bolts tomorrow and get my @$$ back in the shop and hopefully I'll have the thing rolling again, then I can fix the slight problems in the rear end and the tcase shifter and a little wiring and call it good enough.

 

 

Deadline is looming.

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I didn't cut the shocks, they jsut happen to be lying on the bed with a bunch of other stuff (like driveshafts)

 

Unless you're talking about the grease in the slip yokes. It just kinda got sqeezed out.

 

 

I'll get some pics here... They're both just tacked together to check length and runout right now. Need to put the front axle back in though.

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Front shaft done

 

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Whole front end is together, only thing is that my pitman arm has the wrong hole size/taper for the 1/2 TREs. Hopefully my buddy has one that works, otherwise I'm effed because to get the reamer is going to take 2-3 weeks.

 

 

Rear end is being taken back apart to put the brakes/spacers on, and fix the pinion angle.

 

 

Still haven't finished wiring my fans. Blah.

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I'm exhausted.

 

 

I took it for a test drive.

 

-No rear shocks. Or tail lights. Or plates.

 

-Brakes weren't bled quite right - I will have to deal with it.

 

-Tranny mount is WAY too stiff. I have no idea if it is even going to work like this. I'm afraid that it hasn't enough give and it is going to carnage something. Perhaps itself. I guess that's what you get for using leaf spring bushings.

 

-The connection between the tie-rod and drag link (inverted T) hits the passenger side leaf spring. I have no idea how to fix it yet...

 

-I never got around to wiring the fans...

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Proof it drove.

 

 

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Al's (editor or Can4x4 magazine) big CJ.

 

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Sucker is no CJ. The only CJ parts on it is that front grille and the hood.

 

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Yeah, rear steer. Chromo shafts all around. Full hydro in the front too. Aluminum tub sitting on a hand-built frame with 2" .120 ERW tube cage all throughout it. Its built actually to run deep snow, it just floats along the top. Oh, there's a 500HP 401 under the hood...

 

 

Bunch of the bigger folk

 

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Most of these guys ran aluminum tubs (jeeze, what a coinkidink that Aqulu is based in kelowna, where these guys are from).

 

 

 

This FJ actuall has independant suspension.

 

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It's hard to make out. But it's built using gamma-goat axles. The fully computer controlled version of this suspension setup retails for about 80K. Little pricey...

 

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Does it work worth $#!&? Well, it's built for a similar purpose as Al's CJ. To run deep snow at high speed.

 

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He has about 800HP to boot... Something to do with 632ci.

 

 

 

Here's a YJ with the same setup.

 

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Anyways, pics of me wheeling, we'll see if anybody took any.

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sick... so the manche was able to keep up with all those crazily modified jeeps and other used-to-be-something trucks?

 

 

Well enough. It's an easy run - they just show up because it's a charity event. And they like wheeling...

 

 

My tires were the limiting factor. Damn the BFGs don't work in snow.

 

 

 

 

What I need to do:

 

-Fix the windshield wipers

-Fix the tcase linkage (it died, so I couldn't get 4hi, so I was in 4lo and 5th trying to get enough wheel speed on the ice)

-Press new bushings into the rear shocks

-Wire the fans (I booty-rigged a under-hood switch)

-Find the punctures in my tires. I now have 3 flats... I think one might have been a sidewall.

-Fix the TRE that is spinning.

-Pull the third out of the 12B and see if the LSD is done. If so, weld it.

-Figure out why the brakes are so weird

 

 

Next planned mods:

 

-Selectable hubs (yay for drive flanges)

-Hydro-assist. I need it BADLY! Possibly make an all-new steering setup at the same time. The current one is ghetto.

-New tranny crossmember, mount, and skidplate. The current one woked well other than it's stiff, and is just a modified stocker so it hangs quite low.

-Tow rig and trailor. And an exo. Okay, I need more money...

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sick... so the manche was able to keep up with all those crazily modified jeeps and other used-to-be-something trucks?

 

 

Well enough. It's an easy run - they just show up because it's a charity event. And they like wheeling...

 

 

My tires were the limiting factor. Damn the BFGs don't work in snow.

ive never been fortunate enough to play in snow... just ice down here once a year (if we're lucky)

 

buuut i have heard taht a/ts are best in snow... ive heard tires with tighter tread patterns instead of big huge lugs... (i could be completely wrong in which case you can nutkick.gif me)

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The problem with snow is that it really is a varied surface. It's like how you cannot compare the rocks of moab (dry, high traction, few sharp edges) to the rocks of the BC coast (wet, very low traction, sharp as a porqupine).

 

 

The BFG M/Ts did fine in the deep stuff. But, the hard packed/icey stuff they were horrible as the tread blocks (and compound) is simply way too hard. I had to heat them up before attempting one of the hills - so they'd actually stick.

 

 

The reason A/T tires are often recommended over M/Ts is that they are siped from the factory, and have smaller tread blocks that flex easier.

 

 

But, deep snow, well, an aggressive tire works fine. Most of the big guys ran boogers.

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The BFG M/Ts did fine in the deep stuff. But, the hard packed/icey stuff they were horrible as the tread blocks (and compound) is simply way too hard. I had to heat them up before attempting one of the hills - so they'd actually stick.

 

 

The reason A/T tires are often recommended over M/Ts is that they are siped from the factory, and have smaller tread blocks that flex easier.

 

 

But, deep snow, well, an aggressive tire works fine. Most of the big guys ran boogers.

 

This is EXACTLY what I have found and told many people. My MT's are excellent in new, deep snow. Either on or off road, but once it gets packed they BLOW!!! the AT's I have had are good all around, new snow, packed snow, no real difference, they just work!!

 

CW

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looks good man i wanna do front leafs on my manche one day.. i HATE coils.. my LCA's have no more bushings left... so i have death wobble..atleast i think thats where its comin from... so how much lift did those waggy leafs give? i have spring over in the rear of my manche. would waggys be the same? and i like your front crossmember bumper idea.. for the shackles of course lol..maybe a winch to lol

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Awesome pictures man! :cheers:

 

I have BFG m/ts and it snows a good amount here and they do fine (in most types of snow anyway). What really helps is when you have weight in the rear (tool box, spare, hi lift, wood, rocks, whatever...). I'd slide alot less in the parking lots if I had more weight back there (and less skinny pedal :roll: )

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Did it start after the axle swap?

 

After my swap my brakes would go to the floor. But they still stopped. The factory master cylinder doesn't supply enough pressure to the bigger brakes. I put in a master cylinder from a 1990 Ford E-350 van. Now i have good pedal feel and it stops good.

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