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My latest axle build/swap and front leaf conversion


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What amperage is it?

 

 

I can weld with mine at 35-40amps without much problem. Other than that's not enough amperage unless you're working with sheet. And who welds sheet with a stick?

 

 

If it's a 90 amp unit, you should have no problem laying down a decent bead... (Unless the breaker goes)

 

 

35-40 amps and a 3/32 rod of 6013, 70-90 and a 3/16 rod of 6013 and it should do fine.

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I store my welding rods in the lil containers you can buy for them.. and have had zero issues with moisture and if by some chane the do get moist.. lay them out on a disposable aluminum pan.. and bake them :brows: Believe it or not.. at the local shipyard.. some of the welds call for the rods to be preheated :eek: thats where I learned that trick ;)

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What amperage is it?

 

 

 

It says it's a 100amp unit, but somehow I doubt I'm getting that. For $65, I didn't expect a whole lot out of it and I feel more comfortable with a pro welding my important stuff anyways.

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you could store them in a ziplock bag with a couple slices of plain white bread...it works for my cookies to keep them fresh :drool: ...

 

You store your cookies with your welding rods? I bet the smell when you're welding is great!

 

As for the Auto Helmet I use mine for one reason - the more I get to welding the more comfortable I become and once I get back in the groove of striking arcs with the helmet down I stop realizing I can't see. The result is striking a nice arc with my eyes wide open and the helmet up.

 

I figured there is a limited amount of damage I want to do to my retinas and the auto helmet is more consistent than the ol' brain.

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I got some work done today. Not a lot, but not too bad considering I figured I wouldn't even be able to. Believe it or not, Jeet Kun Do is a pretty good way to make your entire body sore to the point of being useless.

 

 

 

 

 

Anyways, figured I'd better make some spring hangers. My origonal plan to use 4x4x.250 HSS didn't work out. The ID is 2.5" on it, but you need about 2.75" for misalignment (allow the leaves to flex). So I built 'em out of plate.

 

 

First one welded up, still hot.

 

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Most of the slag off.

 

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There was a couple little nasties in that welding. On place the weld got contaminated and is porous, but I don't think I'll bother fixing it as it hardly matters. Or maybe I will.

 

Other side burned in.

 

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When I quit taking pictures (got too dark)

 

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I did take the slag off the welds on the second hanger and there was no flaws.

 

 

 

 

Oh, and I had a wonderously aweful idea... I'm going to drill out the plug welds on both of my D44s, and put the waggy tubes in the ford centre section. No cutting, no mess, hopefully they are both slip fit or I'm f'ed!

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No pics tonight, but I got the front xmember welded onto the truck. And then I hung the leafs from the front just to make sure on where I should put the hangers in the back.

 

 

Then I started messing with my temporary tranny xmember, and seeing if I can make my other tranny mount work with a peugeot. It's probably an AW4 mount. The short answer is that some things are gonna be changed. It's annoying I couldn't just find another puker mount and use that.

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I store my welding rods in the lil containers you can buy for them.. and have had zero issues with moisture and if by some chane the do get moist.. lay them out on a disposable aluminum pan.. and bake them :brows: Believe it or not.. at the local shipyard.. some of the welds call for the rods to be preheated :eek: thats where I learned that trick ;)

 

any rod burns better when its kept heated...i can't recall which rods require heating...i learned the hard way not to put them in ur pocket..lol :grrrr:

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Leaving them.... For now.

 

 

I might brace them in a triangular fashion, but it would have made a lot more sense to do that before welding them to the truck. However, I think they're strong enough. Maybe I'll box the front of them. We'll have to see where the springs end up before I do anything else though.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Not a lot of progress, been kinda busy between work and trying to get back into school.

 

 

But the good news is that someday I will be fixing planes for a living! Or maybe that's bad news for most people....

 

 

Thought I'd ask, are motor mounts supposed to have this much play?

 

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Or should I have replaced them about 2 years ago?

 

 

 

Anyways, after just about killing DD after an encounter with a water hazard, I decided a better intake/snorkel should be in order for both. However, I cut BB first as she's already a Miss Frankenstein.

 

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Then I'll put a hole through into the engine bay there, and run ABS pipe and some radiator hose to make the intake system.

 

 

And I poked around at some other things.

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I think your motor mount is history.. but I might be wrong ;)

 

 

On Casper the PO made a snorkle of sorts by using the stock air cleaner some flexible tubing, and some abs or pvc pipe... can't tell you if it works, or if it lets in enough air as I have been unable to get off my a$$ and work on it lately, but this w/e is going to be nice, and I am off, so I will work on it this weekend.

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Top half of that side is completely missing on my 88. No disasters yet. I did my most redneck fix yet and squirted a whole mess of household silicone in there. Not that I thought it would help in any way, but I was bored and curious. :brows: A dangerous combination...

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Motor mount actually looks OK. There is supposed to be a gap between the rubber and the steel. But you can't actually tell from the picture what condition the rubber is in. Usually it tends to crack right along the bolt. Its hard to see, you sometimes have to stick your head way in there to find a crack. Generally, the drivers side goes first.

 

Aftermarket motor mounts are really beefy. You can get Poly or rubber. Most people like the rubber because the poly makes you feel the engine vibes intimately through the seat of your pants. However, some people enjoy this. You're call.

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I'd be getting the poly ones then!

 

 

But, we'll wait till it breaks. As is the nature of how I do things.

 

 

 

 

 

Okay, made some progress, but I dunno about this D44...

 

 

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How do you get that ring off? I tried pulling on it, went out and bought a jawed puller, but can't fit it in... It wiggles, but it won't come out. :dunno:

 

 

This is what has come off so far:

 

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(Some of the bolts are for the 12B, nevermind them)

 

Any thoughts?

 

 

 

 

I decided I better work on the 12B. Just mockup for now.

 

 

Started basic prep:

 

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Spring perch mock-up:

 

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Building spring plates and UBE's (U-bolt eliminators...)

 

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I also decided to move the wheelbase back about 1.5" at this time.

 

 

Tacking perches in. Pinion is 6* up. Decent guess.

 

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UBE mockup, and the perches are burned in on the sides (There's another weld to do to make them really solid.)

 

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UBE's burned in partially:

 

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UBE's done for now:

 

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Springs going on, and getting ready to wedge it under the truck.

 

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Hold it right there! That's where the rear tires should be! Now I jsut need to ditch the leafs.

 

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When I quit for the night:

 

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