oldjeep

Thread back from the dead ;) I was rebuilding a 242 to swap into my kids truck, and plopped a 231 next to it. By the tape measure it looks like the 242 is actually 1/4" shorter than the 231 Once I pull the complete 231 out of his truck, I'll set them on the table next to each other and measure with the tailhousings on. But for reference, here's a 231 case (front one) and a 242 side by side.

Not really, I need to be able to see the slot orientation. I've got 3 different arms, all with slots at different angles

Just picked up a 242 for my sons comanche, but it was missing the shift arm. I've got several varieties sitting around the shop from cherokee 231's YJ 231's and possibly a 242, but I'm not sure which one is the correct one. Can someone post a picture of a known 242 shift arm?

The part time light is what comes on when a 231 is in 4wd. A 242 equipped truck has 2 lights, part time and full time. SO I'm going to guess 231

No reason to buy a "kit" All you need is longer bolts for the crossmember and something to use for spacers (Washers, drilled block of steel, etc)

Jeez, if I'd known that YJ yokes were good for something I wouldn't have thrown so many away. :) On a YJ, they are completely useless for more than 2" of lift.

With that much lift, an SYE and CV is about the only thing that's going to do it. Why drop the tcase when you've gone through all the work to get the belly up off the ground?

Time for a slip yoke eliminator and a CV shaft. How much lift have you got?

Tried that didn't work

Do you have experience with the part? If so, how well did it fit? Also, what was the shipping cost? I couldn't find mention of it on their website. No shipping cost, I just ran over and picked it up. Fit fine for me, the one I replaced was crushed. Got the header, grill and 2 headlight surrounds for $65. Good price, especially when you are just going to mess it up again. Using junkyard headers isn't an option in MN. I have yet to find one that you could actually get the screws out of without snapping them off.

Uh, wrong. With an open differential, all that is going to spin with the collar in the axle not enguaged is the disconnected shaft.

Could be a couple things. With the truck off, put it in 4wd - high or low with the tranny in gear. and get under the truck. See if you can turn the front driveshaft by hand. If you can, then your transfercase has internal problems. If you cannot turn the driveshaft by hand, then the next thing to check is the axle disconnect on the front axle. Pull it out and see if you can manually move the shift fork. Block the wheels and start the truck up in neutral to see if the shift fork moves back and forth when you shift in and out of 4wd. Check the collar that the disconnect frok moves and see if it;s jammed.

Might clear some gunk out, but probabally not if you have been running E10 for a long time. Only thing I would expect to happen is that the engine will run really lean and your check engine light will come on.

That's why you coat the underside of the truck with herculiner too.

Stock MJ MC is fine. My kids 90 has an 8.8 in with the stock MC. Couple questions - is the brake light on on the instrument panel? If so, then the pill in the booster is still shoved to one side. I find that a pressure bleeder is the best way to get all the air out of these systems. Best $65 I ever spent - you can completely flush the lines in under 10 minutes http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html Also, did you bleed the fronts?

A new header panel costs about $30 from certifit

yup i even compared it to my daugther xj and it is wired and workin right Have you checked the brake signal pin on the tcu harness with a voltmeter? Maybe there is a short? Otherwise, It sounds like you might have a bad TCU if it thinks the brake lights switch is on when there is no voltage present. Does your daughter have a 90 or older that you could swap in her TCU?

Are you sure that the TCU is hooked up to the switched side of the brake light switch? The switch is the same on an auto vs stick, I didn't have any problems using the same one when I swapped on my kids 90.

Jeez, you mean the bellhousing bolts? I'm 0 for 2. Hard to believe that someone was dumb enough to leave 2 of those out.

Just got doe fixing my kids floor. No the carpet is not glued, just remove the seats, center console, and all the plastic trim panels by the doors. I used panel adhesive, sheetmetal screws and then tack welded the perimeter. Herculiner over all that and on the bottom of the repair to keep the water out. Check here for some pics: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... 8998#68998

OK, misunderstood. Those should be 1/2"-20 x .590" - but again, double check with one of the ones you have left.

Pretty sure that M10 x 1.5 x 20mm is the size. They have them in the help section of most auto parts stores labeled as a GM Flexplate bolt. Make sure you bring one of your remaining bolts along to compare.

With the rear yoke on this happens?

Just fog the cylinders and plug any opening that a mouse could crawl into.

I disagree as well. Anyone who has drained an AW4 from the plug and then removed the pan will know that there is still about a quart in the pan as well as the gunk that sits on the bottom of the pan. I've replaced the filter/screen whatever you want to call it because it is gunked up. Separating the dipstick tube isn't really necessary, just remove the bolt that holds the tube to the bellhousing and pull the whole thing out the bottom.