oldjeep

What will happen if that ballast resistor is not hooked up? On my kids 90 there are no wires attached to it.

On a 90 it's a mechanical box that supposedly has to be replaced once it triggers. On my 90 it was disconnected. Looks like this: http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/parts/ ... d/964.html And it's mounted to the bottom of the trim panel to the right of the steering column.

They flywheels do not interchange. The trigger pattern for the CPS is different

Success. On my 90, the cable was supposed to enter the cab right next to where the clutch master was. Cable is about 7 feet long and went in easily.

Cool. I've also got the interlock cable but wasn't planning on installing it.

I sent the seller an email, we'll see what he remembers. It appears that all 88 cherokees were floor shift. 88 Comanches could be floor or column shift. His response: Hi, as I remember the cable came through the firewall near the accelerator and the other park cable came through above the brake pedal. I hope this helps. Guess I'll take a look for some additional holes.

This is what I got - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0141178426

Nope, it's the shift cable. One end attaches to the shifter, the other to the shift arm on the transmission.

It's a floor shift, but the cable is a lot longer than 2 feet. It came out of an 88 cherokee according to the ebay auction I got it from.

Where does the shift cable get routed for an AW4? Started to install it and it seems a lot longer than it should be. At what point does it enter the cab? Thanks

Finally had some time to work on it yesterday. Pulled the AX15 out along with the related manual trans stuff. Worst part was getting out the steel ring that surrounds the pilot bearing. Grease trick didn't want to work so I wound up having to severly abuse my pilot bearing puller. Hopefully today I'll get the AW4 hanging. Still need another trip to the junkyard for some misc small parts.

Phase 1 - parts accumulation is just about done. Got a 96 23 spline AW4, and associated wiring, TCU and stuff, shifter and new factory trans lines. Trip to the u-pull tommorrow should get the rest of the junk I'm missing - renix TB, front driveshaft, cooler fittings for the radiator (jpcomanche had already put in a new radiator and thankfully it has a trans cooler in it!) Need to swap the TV cable from the 96 trans with the one that is in my wrangler. The renix era aw4 uses a short TV cable that barely worked on my YJ. The 96 has the one I need and the 89 in my yj has what the comanche needs.

4.10's with 33's works just fine. For street use you could easily run 35's with 4.10's.

I doubt that it would work very well. Disc brakes need high volume, which is why a drum brake MC doesn't work very well with rear discs. Drum brakes need high pressure. Best bet is to be using an MC that was designed for the type of brakes you are running.

This came out AFTER I did mine... Guess I should have looked into a copyright huh??? Amazing how simular they look!!! CW This model looks almost identical http://www.tiregate.com/vt.shtml

Brand new at O'reillys for $13.99 + $10 core. Cardone part # 10-1603 Yes in 1978 some of the big cars had 4 wheel disc brakes. Very common swap for people with YJ's and Explorer 8.8 rear

Here's an interesting twist on that first idea. Allows you to flip the gate so that the tire is either inside or outside the bed. http://www.tiregate.com/prerunner.shtml

I'm not sure if the XJ/MJ and YJ use the same booster, but if they do then a 78 Mercury marquis MC is a great upgrade. Moves a lot of fluid, is set up for front and rear disc, and costs about $30.

At the moment I'm kind of thinking of a horizontal mount where the top of the tire is at the top of the bed. Need to figure out an easy way to swing it up and out of the way. One thing I want to make sure is that the tire does not restrict the view to the rear since a 16 year old will be driving it and the truck is alreayd lifted.

Keep them coming. Looked at the thread posted, and it's nice but I'd rather not have it hanging out past the back of the truck. This is the one I built for my YJ - but only because there is no room inside for the tire ;)

Shortbed. Might be able to make the tire fit, the hole on the rubicon wheels isn't large enough to fit the retainer plate. Also the MN winters and road salt tend to destroy underhung wheels and occasionally send them bouncing down the road. I'll take a look at the thread you mentioned

Anyone have a good idea for a bed mounted spare? My kids comanche has a tool box at the front of the bed, and I'm looking for a good idea to copy which doesn't take up too much of the remaining bed. He's running rubicon rims with 31's - under bed mount doesn't work with that combo. I've got a bender/welder/plasma so making it is no problem, just can't come up with a good idea.

Here's a picture of the setup on my YJ with AW4. The waterproof switch on the shifter is an ATV winch control, and then the dash lights display gear position. Shifter is a Lokar that I modified to work with the AW4 Works so nice I never put it in full auto mode.

Little work done this weekend. Got the stereo fixed (very important) :) Also replaced the one bent control arm. Found 2 replacement beds. One perfect one for $500 with tailgate and lights, and this one for $75 and a few parts I have laying around. Unfortunately the $500 wasn't in the budget, but this one is repairable

Depends on how easy you want it to shift. I've got Bretts controller on my YJ and it's pretty slick having a rocker mounted to the shifter for fully manual shifting.