oldjeep

You get the advantage of the shorter output and elimination of the slip joint, but you still have a small weak output shaft that is easy to snap. The full SYE gives you a much thicker output shaft.

Make one on your own? Same way you do it for any other vehicle. Take the pan off flip it up side down on a piece of steel and trace it. Then get out the plasma cutter and cut out your new flange. If you're capable of the work, you should be capable of figuing out how to do it ;) Why would you want to make one? Edit - too bad you posted your wanted add for a pan today instead of last friday. Just threw away 2 of them.

True Chuck, but I couldn't get my junk high enough at the time. Wish I had a lift. :cry: Not to change the topic, but the last time I changed my tranny filter I forgot to put the little magnets back in. Did not notice any metal particles in the pan though, so I guess it'll be okay until I pull the pan again? Doesn't have to be up real high. On the MJ I just had the front end on standard jackstands less than 21" tall. On my YJ I can pull the AW4 pan with the tires sitting on the ground ;) Should be OK without the magnets, better if they are there though just keeps any steel from recirculating

Not to be a smart a$$ and maybe i read this wrong but if the wheel are straight and lock in to place how am I going to adjust the drag link until the wheels are straight Lock the column with the STEERING WHEEL pointing straight

no i did not I guess that is some thing i sould do also pete I think you might be right as well the steering wheel could be out of wack to :nuts: And yes it is a big deal it is a pain in the a$$ If that's the case, put the front end on jackstands. Lock the steering column with the wheel pointing straight and adjust the draglink until the wheels are straight. That will get you back to where you are supposed to be.

Did you lift the jeep and not adjust the draglink?

You don't have to pull the dipstick apart to remove the pan. Just take out the bolt that holds the dipstick to the bellhousing and pull the whole thing out the bottom. It's a lot easier to remove and install it that way. It also helps if you have the front end of the jeep up pretty high. The drain leaves about a quart in the pan if you are on level ground.

If you use a pressure bleeder, it resets all by itself. http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html best $65 I ever spent

Normally you use an unlit propane torch to locate vac leaks and listen for the increase in idle.

I didn't have one on hand, had to go out and buy one friday night. And it was an earlier one so it had the 21 spline output which requied an input shaft swap in the tcase. Luckily I did have an extra one of those.

It came shooting out of the side of the valve body.

1st tranny - lasted 3 days. Wasn't feeling quite right and then it just went all to hell. So spent yesterday and this morning putting in another tranny. This stuff doesn't look right

Couple good ones here. ax15 rebuild, np231 rebuild, renix, AW4, 91-93 parts list. http://pdftown.com/Pdf-eBook/Jeep.html

completely wrong. no offense. the shifter is a cable operated device. the hole is already there, it just has a plate over it. you actually don't need a hole, but you will need the floor shifter and the plate that goes below it to cover the hole. so you need a non-column shift steering column, a floor shifter assembly, the floor shifter cable that runs to the tranny. and the normal center console. its all direct bolt in In addition to the list above: When you get the shift cable, also take the shift arm from the donor AW4 - there are a few different configurations. If you are using a newer column without a key release then you need the shift interlock cable as well. Best bet is to get all of the parts from the same donor.

No, I actually haven't. What exactly should I be looking for if it was bad? Or do you think they may just be dirty? Also, IIRC, they are both located near the air box, correct? Thanks for the reply! :cheers: They are both mounted in the front of the throttle body.

Probabaly easiest to just get a complete tcase. They are $75 at the local upull in rosemount. NP231 is simple to rebuild and requires no special tools.

Yes, you can swap the inputs. There are a couple different length inputs used over the years but the 88 and 89 should use the same type. It's pretty easy to change the input. remove the 4 bolts from around the input bearing and remove the snap ring that holds the input shaft. Then you split the case and pull the input out of the planetary.

And the tranny swap is done. Realized the other day that I pulled a tcu harness from a 91, and I needed a 87-90 so went to the u-pull and $8 later had what I needed. Got it all wired up and took it for a drive. Works very well.

What year? (Renix or HO) If it's a 90 or older then a new one is abouit $90 http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDeta ... 80&PTSet=A

Locally it's $60 to have one shortened. But why pay $60 for something I can do in 20-30 minutes?

I've welded all of my own driveshafts, never had one come flying apart. It's like anything else, pay attention to what you are doing and know your limitations. You just grind away the weld at one end until you can remove the yoke, rotating it in a chop saw works well - if you have a lathe it's even easier. Cut the tube to length and then pound the yoke back into the tube. (making sure that it is in phase with the yoke at the other end) If you don't have a lathe - which I don't, the easiest way to get it straight is to install it with the vehicle on jackstands and put one tack weld on it. Spin by hand with a dial indicator on the shaft until it is straight and then tack some more. Double check and then weld it 360 degrees. And I'm a professional software developer ;)

Shortbox with NP231

Anyone know off hand what the length difference is between a 4wd AX15 shaft and a 4wd AW4 rear shaft?

Nothing left on the trans swap except hooking up 7 or 8 wires. Got all the hoses hooked up and fired it up today. No leaks! I did notice that one of the rear DS joints must have crushed needles as it is sloppy as heck. Will also need to have the rear shaft shortened 1" so that there is more that 1/8" slip in the yoke. Also need to scrounge a couple of the trans cooler line hangers from a junker. Need to let it all cool down and then tackle the wiring.

I was swapping the throttle body on a 90 comanche today - needed one witht he hookups for the automatic. It had a double vac plug on the side - the lower port went to the MAP but there is nothing in the upper. What is sipposed to be plugged in there?