oldjeep

I bought them from here: http://www.rustrepair.com/REPAIR_PANELS ... 4-7858470L Didn't really save me much time, if I had it to do over again, I would just use regular sheetmetal.

87-89 for the aw4 behind a 2.5L AW4 versions are also used in Isuzu Rodeos and troopers with a 60 degree bellhousing, and isuzu axiom. Isuzu also has a diesel application I didn't know Isuzu's had AW4's. I know my Rodeo has a 700r4 with a 60* bell housing. Isuzu calls it an A340, don't remember what years exactly, but they also use a lot of Gm trannys like your has

87-89 for the aw4 behind a 2.5L AW4 versions are also used in Isuzu Rodeos and troopers with a 60 degree bellhousing, and isuzu axiom. Isuzu also has a diesel application

Nope. Used in XJ's up into the 2000's somewhere 1990 and older should be 21 spline output. 1991 and newer should be 23 spline output. Used in MJ's I think all 4.0L's but not sure Used in some ZJ's but not most Never used in a YJ or TJ from the factory (Although mine has one)

Slipping, sure - they do it right before they die. Or it could have been the torque convertor locking and unlocking. Scale of 1-10 Maybe a 5, and that's just because you have to run all the wiring. The actual tranny install is very easy.

You need to make sure that you get the TCU, TPS and wiring harness all from the same type of motor (Renix or HO) Other than that, AW4 come in 21 spline and 23 spline outputs, so either get one to match your existing transfercase or make sure you get a tcase with the auto. I've done the AW4 swap into a 90 MJ and a 94 YJ, it's really easy in the MJ since everything lines up.

Poor thing must have been really worn out. 400HP at what kind of torque? What exactly broke?

Probabally a vac leak, start checking every line.

Huh? 3rd gear is 1-1 on both of them how do you figure better efficiency?

Yup, V8,TH400, dana 20 is going to be a tight fit in a YJ. You'll want to find a front yoke from an early Jtruck to swap onto the back of the D20 so that you can run a CV shaft. My CJ2a was a 225 v6 with a TH400 and D18 to a Dana 60. But that jeep had an extra 20 inches in the middle.

Well, you never know. I've seen a lot of SOA's done by people who think all you have to do is flip the perches and those vehicles are a menace to public safty. What fullsize springs are you thinking of?

Not exactly free. SOA on stock yj springs = death on the highway. You need something a little stiffer so you can hit the brakes without rolling the axle forward. Then there is the matter of the ladder bar that you need to keep the springs from wrapping into s shapes. Then there is the high steer you need because your tierods are contacting the leaf springs. Nothing wrong with a properly setup SOA, but it isn't as simple as flipping the perches.

Normally they say that a TH400 takes 50 HP and a TH350 takes 35 HP to run. Normal Gearing: (Although there are some variations) 350 - 2.52 1.52 1.00 400 - 2.48 1.48 1.00 TH400 Dry weight is about 190lbs + 13 quarts (THis one I can verify, since I have shipped a TH400) Th350 is about 140lbs + 11 quarts of fluid

That's 200 peak HP at a pretty high RPM, you'll want to look at the HP curve down in the 1100 RPM range. You won't have to worry about ever breaking it though;) I used to have a TH400 behind a 225 buick v6 in my old CJ, and you could feel the lack of power that it caused - and the 225 has a lot more low end torque than a 4.3 Vortec, My buddy runs a TH350 behind a 502 in his chevelle drag car, so it's probabally strong enough for a 4.3 ;) Good luck though, using factory adaptors is the cheap way to go.

The hoods fenders and grilles are cheap since a lot of YJ owners swap on CJ front clips. I've got an extra YJ grill in the garage that I would sell for $50 A $89 explorer 8.8 solves the D35 problem. Fitting in a D60 requires some fuel tank relocation to get the axle in where it needs to be. This one is mine. 94 with a 2.5L and AW4. 4" lift 35" tires, 8.8 rear axle. Works fine at up to 75 MPH. IF you buy $#!&ty springs, like rough country - it'll ride like a lumber wagon. BDS springs make the ride pretty decent.

Whats the reason for the TH400 behind a 4.3L? The parasitic power loss is around 20%, and you will really notice it behind the V6. Might be better off with a Th350 or 700r4 to D300, they are a lot kinder on the HP drain.

You don't want to drive around with the TPS disconnected on an AW4 equipped truck. It really screws up the shifting

Yup $19 at the local u-pull with all the sensors attached.

Just got done swapping a 242 into my sons commanche this morning. It's 1/8 to 1/4" shorter than a 231. (As measured by the amount of slip yoke sticking out).

On my kids 90 - There's an antennae connection behind the right side kick panel, maybe it just came up plugged?

Does anyone sell a bolt in replacement for the cheesy stock xj/mj tcase shift linkage?

Hopefully the last work on the MJ until spring, getting to hard to get it back to the shop in the snow Nothing much to take pictures of. Took 2 hours start to finish, couldn't be easier. 1) remove both driveshafts 2) remive crossmember 3) remove 231 4) bolt in 242 5) Adjust shift linkage 1/4" and swap shift pattern bezel 6) reinstall crossmember and driveshafts His truck doesn't have a vac disconnect any more but it still had the vac actuated shift light. For the moment, I took the vac switch off the old tcase and left it hooked to the harness, mainly because I didn't feel like messing with it at the moment. I've still got to get the harness for the 242 and run the PT and FT indicator light wiring. But it works great. Took it out on the iciest road I could find and tried to to tail whips in ft 4wd, and it behaves great. As an added bonus, the 242 came with a 35 tooth speedo gear which was what we needed to get the speedo reading correct (truck had a 29 in it) Worst part of the whole deal was getting the comanche stuck coming out of the shop (garage in back yard with no driveway). Had to pull it out with the much taller YJ.

Ding ding ding - we have a winner. Same thing happens on Wranglers if you put in a lift and don't address the track bar.

So what in the world causes it to break there? It's an off the shelf TRE, and there doesn't appear to be any damage to the actual track bar.

What does that failure have to do with the track bar? Looks like the TRE shaft broke. Is there some reason you can't just get a new TRE for $20 and reinstall?