rockhardzj

Pure alcohol might even be more reasonable by that point. Not to mention, get some nice HP gains...

OK, you have Stick, MIG, and Tig for the basic welders, and there is also oxy-acetylene welding which is actually brazing, much like soldering. I have a Lincoln stick welder from over 40yrs ago, which I hate, and they have earned the name stick for more than the reason they use a welding rod aka "stick". The rod will STICK to the surface, and quite often, its a PITA, but offers pretty strong welding, and with practice, you can make it look good. There are different rods availible for what you want to weld, and you will go through rods like a fat kid all over an ice cream cone. You also have to set the voltage on the welder. Stick welding, is in my experience the only way to go in sticky situations like throwing some batteries, and jumper cables together and welding an axle tube or engine mount or something out on the trail, as it will penetrate light grease/oil, and will blast through rust. I also have 2 MIG welders, a hobart 120, and a newer 135. The MIG offers you alot of ease of use, where you throw on a ground clamp, set the voltage and wire speed, and pull the trigger and go. It's probably the easiest way to begin welding. You have to adjust the wirespeed to the speed you travel, and it can also take a little time to get good welds going, but generally, not very long. Theres a few options to MIG welders like using solid core wire, with shielding gas, without the gas, or you can use flux core with or without shielding gas. From my experience, I have gotten the best welds so far using solid w/shileding, and I wouldnt reccommend solid without the gas. It has no protection from the elements, and will rust pretty fast. Once I run out of my solid, I'm going to try flux with shielding, as Ive heard it brings the best welds possible, and offers the most contaminant free welds. Ther are different thicknesses of wire to use, however, .030, and .035 are the most commonly used, and .030 is good for all around welding. TIG welders are expensive, and are generally the most difficult to use, as you have the TIG torch in one hand, a filler rod in the other, and you have a foot pedal to mess with. I personally suck at it, however, some of my friends could start and go, and have great welds from it. Some people are naturals, some are not. there is also different tungsten tips, in the range mixtures of metal with the tungsten in the tip. If you are good at TIG, it will offer you the best welds, and will offer the most superior strength. It is however much more time consuming, and again, expensive. Hope this helps out. Your best bet will be with a MIG welder for what you want to do. I would personally go for a 220V one though, as the 110V ones can only do so much.

Oh, and they are like probably about 1" to 1-1/16" wide for the width of the "bolt" I'll get better measurements tomorrow or monday with a micrometer. and some pictures.Thanks, Joel It's 1.5 ACME thread. Here are the jam nuts: http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.m ... _Code=ARMS Holy over priced batman! Thats quite a bit of money to ask for two measley jam nuts... A**holes at rustys seem to be greedy...

The concept is fairly simple, the engineering, I can imagine would $#!& the bed, near the pillows too. I'd like to see this buggy, maybe I can figure out a way to fix it's engineering nightmares. the driveshaft would need one hell of a long of a slip spline...

Oh, and they are like probably about 1" to 1-1/16" wide for the width of the "bolt" I'll get better measurements tomorrow or monday with a micrometer. and some pictures.Thanks, Joel

Design it so the wheelbase can stretch with hydrailics. It would be the most capable rig out there. SWB mode to avoid the high centering, and then the hill comes, and push that rear axle out like a foot to LWB mode, and climb with ease. Good idea, but would be very expensive to do, and probably wouldnt let you be street legal ever again. Yea, that took all of a few seconds to think of...

If you have a thread centered at 0, and another centered at one inch, the count is 6 total threads. they are flat (not sharp threads), and probably 1/8" deep. First time Ive seen this coarse of a thread. I'll try to get a picture when I have time in the garage again. Jam nuts would be very helpful though. Threads are like this: -0"-------------------1" \_/ \_/ \_/ \_/ \_/ \_/ _1 _2 _ 3 _4 _5 _6 looking at the bottom to best represent the flat parts. Hopefully it makes sense. Thanks

it's so purdy...... :drewl:

I agree, it's the design fault on the Rusty's Lowers... They have the jam nuts on the uppers though. I think thats why Rusty's is known to "clunk". They also use a massive thread on rusty's lowers, so a Jam nut may be kind of hard to find for me...

Every Jeeper likes to hear that.

why not buy a new lung for it... much cheaper. Also look in the local classifieds... you can sometimes find a compressor that has a burnt up motor for lil or nothing... being you got a good motor New lung?Meaning tank, or the compressor pump itself? I havn't found the pump I want yet, I gotta check with Ingersoll Rand and see what they have. My big compressor has over 35yrs of use, and the only one I have seen on ebay, went for nearly 3,000 bucks with a shot motor. I wonder what the damn thing retailed for new??? My dad got it from his old work (former Great Lakes Carbon, Niagara Facility), when they upgraded their equipment, for free. He got a bunch of tools too, and then the place went out of business a few yrs later.

Mine will be going into my comanche, but it will be a good 2+ feet behind my head. Nice little cab extension thanks to a wrecked 98 XJ. The trim will be complete inside of it too. It's pretty nice too, because the XJ came with some nice monster cable and stuff that I salvaged. I'll get a little more in depth in the build thread.

I have a nice 5hp dual stage 180 gallon 15cfm@90psi 220v compressor in my garage. :D Needs a new compressor unit though, the old one died a few years back. My 1hp 120V 33gallon 12cfm@90psi tank has been holding the wait for a new compressor unit so far. I just hate it due to it's annoying weedwacker sound...

Well, you'd only need one ram, as long as it is powerful enough, and could be controlled. Another idea, is to put a steering axle right on the trailer that is a full hydro setup with a high powered electric pump to drive it. add some sensors to the steering wheel, so the trailer would know just how much to steer, and also, allow the trailer steering to auto center, and shut off when not needed.

That was the big @$$ Chevy with rockwells and the matching trailer made with a matching bed?If so, It only has a pintle hitch connecting the trailer, however, the trailer has the rockwell, but it's only purpose is for the pinion brake (extra e-brake). (Four Wheeler mag's July 2007 Issue) I have a great idea to incorporate a driveshaft to the trailer, but built into a custom hitch setup. Essentially, there would be a cage around the driveshaft connecting the rig with it's trailer, and it would have a up/down pivot at one end, while the side/side pivot at at the other end. For articulation, there would be a big bearing that would go around this cage, between the pivot points, and able to withstabe some pretty harsh conditions. The driveshaft would essentially just go through the middle of the cage, and there would be no strain front to rear on the driveshaft itself, although, it would have a slip yoke built into the driveshaft. The cage would also be a larger diameter in the center or or get larger as it goes back to allow for movement of the driveshaft without hitting the cage. It would be nice to incorporate a easy way to detatch the trailer if it is not needed. I'll have to draw it up sometime. It's a great idea, and maybe some millenium, I will get to try it myself.

Sounds good for a price, pass me the info, just maybe in a few weeks ill have me a new toy for the driveway.

I officially hate you. Nothing to do with the ranger, or what's in the bed, or whatvehicle is sitting in the background, but that mighty fine pretty blue toy you have in your garage. I need me one of them. Actually, I need a big bay door first, the yj with 33's, and a 4.5" lift glides about an inch under the garage door when it's pushed up. Hard top would make the YJ screwed for fitting in the garage...

The problem is, then they won't fit. In many applications (such as the control arms) you'll be building in clunks that you'll never be able to get rid of. The preferred solution (IMHO) is to use the correct bolt, and use it with anti-sieze. If you anti-sieze both the threads and the shanks, you should never snap anout bolt or bit. I didnt mean all SAE, but rather SAE where applicable, welded in metric nuts will still get metric bolts, just not torx head ones... Torx bolts will be replaced to something used with metric/sae sockets, as it's pretty hard to shear/snap/explode a socket compared to torx bits. I understand a few low clearance areas will still require the supid torx junk, so in those cases, tons of antiseize will be used.

I'm going to swicht 95% or more of the MJ to SAE/non-torx bolts. I can't stand the damn things. I snap torx bits like a fat kid all over an ice cream cone.

Well, my jeep sources say metric is the winner. I just did quick measurements with a tape measure.

Well, at least you are taking a good approach to the situation. some of those JU people have not the slightest clue on how to check their oil. thats sad... Speaking of oil... BMW really has me ticked off with their new engine with no friggin dipstick! theres a dummy light for low oil and change oil. :mad: :headpop: I guess if you have a new BMW, the dealer is god, and you must :bowdown: to them.

Just watch out for the PETA people. They will tear you two new holes, one in front, and one behind your current a-hole. Well, they will try to, but when you grab a hamburger, they will all get sick, and leave, because it's too much for them to take. My old high school has a school rock out back, with about 6-7" thick of paint on it. it got painted an average of once a week, every year since the school was built in like 67 or whatever. Anywho, a few buddies of mine did the prank of painting it pink, after moving it to the front of the school, and putting two water filled 2.5 ft beach balls on both sides. it looked like a huge wang in the schools front lawn. the year before i graduated, a senior whos brother worked for a towing service had the principal's blazer or jimmy or whatever towed away a few mins after it got parked in the morning, and came back with an easily removeable vinyl skin that said some funny random quotes the principal would say (he always sounded like he was drunk, and very well may have been???) and their signatures on the carskin, about 275 names. He drove the car through the end of the school year like that.

That is a nice unit, alot orf truckers use them, and they are still availible brand new, however, mostly found at truck stops. it is not your regular rat shack or wal mart level of quality found in those, but a much higher quality. I need to get me one of them...

One of several thousand reasons I stopped watching that show after 3 airings. I also have not found those guys to be very educational, and they all seem like momma's baby's gones retarded/rich. Off topic: I'm still waiting for Blue Torch Fabworks' X-Fab TV to begin airing. I don't know if that became a lost cause, or what, but at least it would be alot more related to my hobbies... On topic: On unique whips, the paint they use, is crap you can get at wal mart or whatever. Think cheap, low quality, not worth my 64,000 dollar investment for them. I think the absolute best way to recolor your interior, using paint/dye/whatever method is to actually spend some quality time with hot soapy water, degrease all the stuff you want to recolor, rough them up, let them dry, clean the dried dust off, and use an at least decent quality spray paint, if not low grade auto paint to really give the color some character. Possibly even use some primer. The only other way is to actually go out and find a vehicle that has the color interior you want, and hope its all in great shape.

Don't quote me, but I beleive the sensors are all that need to be swapped for it to work. I'm sure other people here know more than I do, especially since I hardly have my feet wet with Renix systems.