Bounty Hunter

Why? That is what's going in my YJ with a spool and a cable, poor-mans selectable locker D44's and 5.38's soon. The Isuzu rear D44 is a good match for the Waggy front D44, same 6lug wheel pattern and rear discs.

Only by a minute, Pete, only by a minute :cheers:

No closeup of me, here's the best I have:

Find yourself an XJ proportioning valve and run a single line to the rear. Simple and clean.

At 3" you'll want to redrill the lower mount for the front trackbar, about 1/2" toward the drivers side to recenter the axle. The rear sounds good, but can't use CJ shackles. Have to stick with MJ or GM shackles. For the front, run the caster all the way out and you should be okay, thus making the lower control arms as long as possible.

All '88 5spds would be the Peugeot BA10/5, they didn't use the AX15 until mid-year '89. The AX15 from a YJ or TJ will bolt in, but you'll likely need to change your clutch master cylinder and transfer case input shaft. The transfer case in Wranglers are clocked higher than in the MJ, so you may need to clearance your tub above the TC, or redrill the mounting flange in the back of the tranny.

That's what I had thought, seal only on the disconnect.

There's no bolt holding the crossshaft in because it's likely a rollpin. Sounds like your toasted the spider gears, you're lucky if that's the only damage.

A trackbar isn't the cause, but merely what allows DW to happen once the tires enter a wobble that would otherwise be prevented by good parts. You can't tell anything by looking at the track bar ends. You need to have somebody bounce the steering wheel back and forth off of full lock while you watch both end of the track bar. This generally shows play in the upper TRE end of the trackbar. Otherwise, check for cracked control arm bushings as well. Forget about the driveshafts, any driveline vibe is totally seperate from and can not induce death wobble.

The woodgrain is generally found in the 'Country' package of the XJ. Got top dollar for the one I parted out.

CW, you simply cut the bad metal out and remounted the flare higher on the fender? I need to do that to mine.

Soaked mine in carb cleaner (just the tips). Your leak is repairable if the leak is from an o-ring line mine was. If it's from the injector body, you'll have to replace the injector. The FSM says to remove and install the injectors as one with the fuel rail, which is how I did it.

They're out there as RHD was an OEM option. Haven't seen any in the junkyards, but if you call around. www.car-part.com .

Is that with the speedo corrected for the oversize tires?

POR15 the floor, goes on over rust after you scrape off all the loose stuff. Leaves a nice tough finish that'll nip the rust in the bud. Why all the web paranoia over having your license plates visible?

Have you replaced all the injector o-rings? My '88 4.0L had a problem of quenching the plugs with fuel. Was a bad IAC motor on the throttle body.

21mpg in my 2.5L YJ 4.0L MJ, not so much :mad:

Have you checked both ends of the track bar by watching the ends while a buddy bounces the steering wheel back and forth against full-lock? Cracked oem control arm bushings are also a good culprit for DW. For checking the balljoints, jack the axle up from the center and watch for movement in the balljoints as the tire leaves the ground. May even be able to move the steering knuckle in and out by hand.

You don't HAVE to do anything about the width of an Explorer axle, running one on my MJ with no spacers and no problems. Granted I had to use aftermarket rims because OEM rims hit the calipers (tires didn't hit the leaf springs). I would put the 8.8 first on desireable swaps if doing a SOA, 2nd only to the MJ D44 if you're staying SUA.

I parted out a '93 XJ with 231 that was a non-disco.

Sorry for splitting hairs, was just wanting some confirmation for my own sanity.

Shouldn't be a problem with that setup.

With an open diff, you would likely have to lock the spinning tire completely in order to gain any forward momentum from the opposite tire. Now a limited slip differential would do what you're suggesting very well as it only takes a little brake bias to transfer torque to the opposite tire.

Come on, tell me I'm not losing my mind here.

Any steering problems could be the Jeep trying to reject the thornturds, I mean stuckbirds :redX: