TNT

You forgot the power mirrors, the auto dimming rearview mirror, console with the compass, keyless entry, the subs, amp and stereo. Theres more than that too... :brows:

We can do way better then the front bumper that is on it. I also have a 4"x6" rear bumper that is an air tank to boot.

Thanks for the links. :cheers: I plan on running 36" long black mudflaps that are on quick removable brackets. They should keep the cops off my back for street use. :brows:

It would be made from 1/8" & 14 gauge sheets, 2" & 1.5" 3/16" wall square tube, 1/4" wall 2.5" square tube, 1/8" wall 1.5"x2" tube and some other assorted sizes. It won't be light, thats for sure... The plan is to build it stong enough to incorperate it into an exo rollcage. The frame will be shorted to the shackle mounts also. The rear shocks will be mounted to the top of the axle and run threw the bed floor to custom mounts. They will be mounted straight up and down. It will have storage for spare parts and tools. The spare tire, axe, shovel and my hi-lift jack will be mounted in the bed. A electric compressor and an airtank will probably be mounted in there later on.

Friday after 6pm or Saturday after 4pm would work for me. Just give me a call before you stop by.

You should probably pick-up a YJ yoke so the shaft doesn't bind when drooped. Either that or grind your stock yoke for extra clearance. The YJ yoke is slightly longer and your shaft has enough slip for it to work without binding. Right now IMO it's about 1/2" out too far.

Now we just need to make it grow a few inches. We can work out something to get it done. I have my raised flares and inner liners if you are interested. You saw them on my tan XJ, they were raised to the body line and have the gap filled. I bought some new ones today because I'm raising the MJ's flares about 2 1/2" past the bodyline now. We should build you some bumpers for it too. You should stop by when you get a chance since I want to know what parts you need before I start selling them to other people.

That turned out nice. It also protects the rear springs from getting bent if you back into a rock or something. Just be careful if you use a D-ring with a snatch strap, the plate holder might rub and fray the strap.

Great idea I have one parts XJ that has a stock rear bumper, I now have a good use for the mounts. :cheers: Thanks for the idea. :chillin:

Well I went to the junkyard today and grabbed up a set of the wider '95 front XJ flares. When the rock rails get welded in I will raise the front flares about 2" past the bodyline. I needed new flares so they will reach down to the bumper in front. I also looked at some boxes but they want $250.00 to $300 for them and they aren't the straightest/cleanest in the world... It's time to sell some parts so I can pick-up my HP D60 front axle and a 14 bolt rear axle. They are more important then the box. At the junkyard I also found a '77 F-150 HP D44 with welded on mounts and a '78 F-250 HP D44 with leaf spring mounts. later today I will be reforming the flares to fit and cutting more metal off of the front fenders. I'm also working out the final details for the 3 link/trackbar design for the front. Here's a box I might build. I have all the steel needed to build it. If I decide to get rid of my stock box and build one, this is what I have in mind. Top view. The grey area will be an XJ fuel tank, some storage, and a remote mounted battery. It will also have short rockrails as shown in the pictures that would tie into the frame and rollcage. Image Not Found Side view. Image Not Found Tell me what you think. It would also have a rollcage with an exo over the roof with A piller tubes that run into the top of/behind the front fenders, tie into the front suspension and the front bumper.

If I decide to get rid of my stock box and build one, this is what I have in mind. Top view. The grey area will be an XJ fuel tank, some storage, and a remote mounted battery. It will also have short rockrails as shown in the pictures that would tie into the frame. Image Not Found Side view. Image Not Found Tell me what you think.

Just posted my introduction.

I used a heat gun to remove my Pioneer strips in about 15 minutes. Oven cleaner is for painted stripes.

oven cleaner works good. you will need to wax afterwards.

Strap type are basically idiot proof, but the u-bolt type aren't. If you over tighten your u-bolt type you can egg shape the u-joint caps slightly causing them to fail. They need to be properly tighted to provide the correct preload. Strap type are meant to be replaced with each use. They stretch when installed. They provide the proper preload when new but when reused the amount of preload is reduced because of the stretch. I prefer u-bolt type with lock washers and add blue loctite so they won't come loose (extra insurance).

Too bad you are so far away, I have 2 sets of stock XJ coils in storage and a set of front ZJ V-8 up country coils too

I don't really the "extra income" I just got a great deal on the HP D60. Here's the plan: Choice #1 Swap the hubs to SRW ones it is about 69" wide, then shorten the long side 5" so it would be 64" wide. This would be a great match for the C&C DRW 14 bolt. With this combo I would run 8" rims with about 4" of backspacing. It would wind up about 75"-76" wide with the tires. This also means I will be putting my '94 XJ back into service as a daily driver. Hopefully it will only take until spring to get the MJ ready. The one ton axles are both geared 4.10, the front will have to stay open and I will weld the rear. Regearing to 5.13 and lockers will have to wait.

I've studied vetteboys build and a bunch of others. I had a design planned for my XJ that is very similar that I will probaby use. Q78's won't be large enough with the one ton axles. I'll probably go with about a 37-38" tire.

If you can pump the brakes and get a better/higher pedal it sounds like you have to bleed your brakes. If the booster is bad, the pedal will be very hard to push, pumping the pedal shouldn't make any difference. You might have a couple of problems...

Thats what I'm thinking. Why waste my money on a Dana turdy. :cheers: I might be able to cut 6" off. Suspension plan is a 3 link with a track bar. The single upper arm will be on the passenger side. I'll probably push the axle 1.5" to 2" forward. This means the battery and airbox will be moved/changed. This will allow me to totally rework the inner fender and move the flares to the top body line on the fender. I plan on staying with 6"-7" of lift max. I want to allow as much up travel as possible. The rear will be simple to do.

If they are both the same spline count ont the input shaft it will bolt right in.

My truss will be hand made by me... TNT.... I have seen T&T's truss and it looks good. Maybe I can get him to make me some deals since I'm TNT on most of the main boards for Jeeps. ;) It would seem like a good deal for him and myself. I'd pimp his products if he cut me a break on price. I build most of my stuff since I'm married with children(one is in college for pre-med)

On my XJ they checked bumper hieght once. They measured at the outer corner instead of the center... It was 29.5" and 30" is max. It sits at 32" on the MJ now. I'm not to worried about it, other then the fact that I work within a mile of thier sub station at I-94 and Hwy 20. huh. never had that happen to me or my dads trucks and he had 40s and 44s. i go to school at gateway in Racine so i go right past there. He was hasseling me since I was in a road closed local traffic only area. I haven't had any problems since then.

I would narrow another HP D44 to waggy width long before I would go low pinion...(I have done this once 4 years ago) It would still need alloy axles and HD u-joints otherwise I might as well just keep my D30 since the u-joint strength is the same. A built HP D44 is only slightly stronger then a well built HP D30. A LP D44 isn't much stronger then a HP D30 since it powers the coast side of the ring gear. Besides I can build up a HP D60 for the same price if not less and it will be way stronger. I'll build my own truss, I have all the steel/equipment I need and have done it before.

If I go one ton I can sell my D44 to help offset the one ton axles price. The more I check into thisit seems the one tons will be cheaper in the long run. Maybe I'll swap in a NP208 transfer case instead for some added beef. It would need a clocking ring to fit so I could have a flat belly pan too.