mjcanoe

dakal, What year do you own? It may be that I have what you need or could @ least confirm what else might fit. mjcanoe

In regards to website offered by Eagle about VIN. I've got an "86 L/B, 4wd, OEM w/ 2.46L, 3spd A/T w/column shift. The web site was on the money except for 8th digit. They show as 4,001-5000 lbs. xj limited. Probable that printer of web is wrong since I have MJ & Factory manual has mine listed as an XLS (digit 9). I do have OEM manuals for MJ printed in 7/85 & "89 manual printed in "88. "89 Manual does confirm existance of Eliminator in "89' 6th digit being"6" . mjcanoe

Dotis, Good for you. Don't know where you live or mileage on mj, but BG products make a good engine crankcase flush. I've had great success w/it in "degunking" engines. Also maybe a 20w-50 during summer mos. if in cold clime. Take care, mjcanoe

Sorry I forgot to mention that on later 4.0 that the brass fitting in I/M would also get resticted/plugged w/sludge. Use proper size drill bit & cleaner. mjcanoe

Hopefully attaboybob got his problems resolved, but since this topic is still alive, here's some info. Back in 1991 oem TSB # 145191 which applied to 4.0L. mentioned replacing ccv w/ #4638360. The original problem w/ the "Renix" jjeep was that the metered orifice was the actual grommet that fit in the V/C, got soft, then plugged. Later 4.0 L. ccv changed that to a grommet in V/C & orifice(2.2mm) in the tube @ V/C end(white fitting) which is still available. There were a number of earlier 4.0 that due to above issue &/or lack of o/f changes did end up w/ "vent stacks" inside of V/C plug up solid w/sludge. These "stacks" are triangular & removable from V/C. When I was deling w/ a badly sludged motor, I would trim about 3/8" from bottom of "stack", kept it away from sludge. Not only does frt. vent allow air flow during running, but allows venting after key off. Hope this helps. mjcanoe

Dakal, Radiator will work, upper r/hose was different, OEM ran it over the top of a/c comp., whereas older (91) ran it behind a/c comp. The a/c cond. was shaped differently, probably change in manufacturer. mjcanoe

Dotis, You don't need, MUST HAVE OIL PRESSURE when turning key to start/crank position. Engine oil pump will actually begin to generate oil pressure during start/crank mode. If filter bad or extreme wear in pump, crank or cam brgs, even occasional restriction, engine will almost immediatley begin to "make" some kind of noise, upper or lower. their is no "failsafe" pressure switch. mjcanoe

Get rid of the Fram! May not be only issue, but for a LONG time now, they are not worth $'s. I've used Wix for over 17 years & NEVER had a failure. If you decide to change to another (WIX) & problem persist's, check oil pressure @ sender/switch fitting w/ manual guage. Lifters are last to be "fed" if I remember correctly, therefore suffer most fron inadequate pressure when pressure marginal. mjcanoe

Mjeff87, thanks for the info. When I get smarter w/PC's I'll make it happen. mjcanoe

CEThomas, If I remember correctly jbhill has s/b for sale w/out fenders, clip, hood, but good cab & s/bed for about $200.00. Southern jeep, GA? mjcanoe

jeepcomj, Groovy!! mjcanoe

87MJay, Look for leak @ frt. shaft seal or return line, possibly crack in plastic hsg from previous stress /abuse. Don't forget residual leakage from pressure port/line. Rr. main not that bad a job, write me when you get ready & I'll give you some pointers/shortcuts, etc. mjcanoe

Mitch, sorry I did not mention earlier presently running 32's but no scrubbing or fender rash. will up to 33's when I get my $'s out of 32's mjcanoe

jeepcoMJ, Cool!! Good for you. If you have time, don't be afraid to use loctite as will save you grief in future. It sounds like previous owner did trans. swap or something. Not to be paranoid, but make sure trans to engine dowels are in place. They would be @ 2 main bellhousing bolts. mjcanoe

89mjay, sorry I forgot, those year/models had a vent in the cap. Worked well for the sometime overfill, If you end up going with reman. pump, make sure resivoir has same cap application. mjcanoe

89mjay, Is the leak only when it sits, or when running? If when sitting then most likely a return line or clamp. If when running, & keep in mind residual leakage, it will probably be a pressure leak. Most often from pressure line, sometimes from pump frt.seal. If pump, as mentioned earlier p/s pump replaced w/reman. is way to go due to labor/time to reseal &/or rebuild. Use a can of brake clean & spray off, then look for leak. S-belt must have correct tension. mjcanoe

mitch, Like jeepcomj I started w/Rough country. Frt. coil springs, rear aal(long style), & 4 gas shocks to match. 2.5-3.0" lift they advertized, I got 2.0 " plus a little when finished. Then I recently added a Rusty's frt. adjustable lift & used a set of Summit "drop" shackles to level out rear. It rides,flexes good. No problems for about 3 mos. now. mjcanoe

jeepcomj, I have seen many T/C bolts come loose. Remove 1 @ a time, inspect bolt, if ok use blue loctight & reinstall to proper torque, but only after you have checked & reinstalled all 4 (fingertight b4 torque). mjcanoe

beaterjeep, ? for you, any other components inop. when fuse goes out? The guage fuse powers c/c if applicable, is part of h/lamp circuit & other i/p units. mjcanoe

Rockhound, I ask because I did'nt understand if problem was in frt. steering/suspension or in column/s/wheel. Different issues, different fixes. Tilt columns were known for becoming loose as example. ZJ's are good truck's, by the way. Hope you can keep MJ tho. mjcanoe

comancheman, good for you!!! just remember, because it is hard to, most electrical problems stem from a simple point. I can't even begin to tell you how many fellow mechanics over the years asked about a wiring problem but never even checked basics, like fuses, etc.!! take care , mjcanoe

creekscout, From the hub flange looking in to center of axle, there will be a retainer that bolts to axle flange w/ 4 bolts. Then the outer axle seal with lip pointed inward, then the brg, followed by a retaining collar. I usuallly replace brg w/new unit as it is easier to cut off then press off, which often distorts brg. cage. Reassemble or have shop do it, do not use a big hammer. It can damage brg. race surface. The inner seal can be removed w/ a pry bar & install new one w/proper size driver or socket, pipe,etc. Make sure you lube seal surfaces & pack new brg with quality grease as it is seperated from diff lube due to inner seal. hope this helps, not that bad to do. D30 frt. axles do have their seals located @ inside of axle tubes. mjcanoe

lostissue, As mentioned, you probably have bad t/s socket in r/f. they are standard 1157 bulb sockets & are available A/M in part stores. Rear lamp issue really needs test lamp for you to check power before you start tearing things apart. Use a good ground, sometimes sockets become so rusty that bulb loses ground. You can, with lamps OFF!! use a plumbing pipe cleaner (wire brush) 1/2 to 3/4 " to clean socket. Must have test lamp to properly diagnos. If you have test lamp & even just a 16 penny nail, you can then test ground & power @ same time using the socket & socket terminals. mjcanoe

Rockhound, Did you get problem resolved ? I am new to forum, but not jeeps. let me know if I can help. mjcanoe

akamcbird, good advice so far, just remember that an aal comes in 2 vareties, thick & short for load or thin & long which adds less lift, but gives better ride/flex. As mentioned do not remove overload leaf, disaster will visit you. OEM manual shows 4 leafs including overload for d35 rears. mjcanoe