mjcanoe

CEThomas, might not matter now, but OEM used silicone (Mopar) which was just grey silicone available from local parts store. anaerobic sealers seal, but remain pliable, so they may work. have rebuilt many t/cases over the years on jeeps & always found silicone sealer from factory instalation. never had a leak w/ grey silicone at all. factory manual calls for a 3mm(1/8') bead on frt. half of case w/ dowel pins removed, then install dowels. every other need for sealer calls for silicone also. hope this helps. mjcanoe

project88mj, d35's & d44's did come w/lsd as an option for your year/model. the easiest way to verify if it is one is by the extra tag on the diff cover. it is short, attached by 1 bolt, usually @ the 10:00 position. it warned you needed additive. sometimes last person who had cover off failed to put tag back. next step would be to jack up rear end & spin tires/hub forward, if lsd both will turn forward while you have someone place resistance on opposite side. standard d35 or d44 will have opposite side spin opposite direction. hope you find one. d44 is stronger, but my '86 still runs a d35,only problem i've ever had was blowing up spider gears while i ran 3.55 ratio & 32" tires & thrashing it on the streets. changed to 4.10, no more problems. mjcanoe

comanche-man22, great find! you can use entire frt. clip, doors if 4 door, frt.axle & suspension, engine & trans with electonics & harnesses, complete interior,center console on xj won't have filler in trim cover, inner trim at frt. w/shield pillers. windshield & trim, t/case & i believe frt. d/shaft. following items could be used w/ mods: rear axle, head liner & other small misc. items, ie: vacuum lines, feul evap, etc. mjcanoe

you guys are right. my 1st boss @ dealership when i was starting out made this observation, "the more you learn, the easier it is to forget the simple solution" i guess it still sneaks up & bites me @ times. mjcanoe

pingpong, 4.3l sounds like good swap. my problem was that since i did not want to swap frt. header panel from '86 to later model lenght was an issue for me. the width of the AMC v-8 put it to far forward,tho well ahead of the indentation of firewall for 4.0l. left me no room for rad. i used a early '70's h/d rad. out of a 302ci comet. plus i tend to be a "purist", wanting oem if at all possible. mjcanoe

erthmun, for grill/brush guard, i found that a unit from a nissan pathfinder or pick-up from the "hardbody" era bolted up nicely to stock bumper. i just had to move the headlight bars up about to inches from original spot to clear headlamps. got mine used form cust. for $50.00. sorry,no pictures yet. mjcanoe

JohnQ, another simple way is to remove heater hose from t/stat housing & fill @ bottle w/ coolant, similar to previous suggestion w/ sensor removal. it would help to have frt. of mj "uphill" if possible. once you have a steady flow (w/ engine off) out of t/stat, slip hose back on, fill coolant res. to about 2/3rds full. start & allow to warm up, you can leave cap off as this method allows it to gravity bleed. then just monitor coolant temp. @ guage & as warms up, slowly remove t/stat hose to allow air out. when guage starts to move, shut off & repeat, then cap. rarely have to worry about trapped air doing it this way. easier to do then write. mjcanoe

I considered swapping in a 304 or 360 AMC on my '86 mj after i yanked 2.5l, but chose not to after doing mock-up. had clearance issues @ firewall i did not want to deal with. but, as we've often heard, you can do anything w/ enough time & $. exhaust & f/wall clearance will be biggest issues as i recall. mjcanoe

FYI, On the d35's that came w.rubber plug that tended to shrink as age set in & caused oil seepage, problem can be repaired by using the drain fill plugs (30mm wrench) from 231 &/or 242 t/cases. just buy tap the correct size & thread pitch & tap existing stamped hole in cover w/cover removed. must be tapped straight or it will leak worse. use t/c drain plug & no more leak or seep. I purchased my tap from local tool supply for about $30.00, so maybe get local guy's to share cost. as mechanic my tool purchases are tax write off. mjcanoe

feerocknok, Those sockects are interchangable w/newer models, sj's, cj's, yj's, even some gm units. they use a 194 bulb. you might even find new ones at a part store. mjcanoe

johngw43, eagle is on the mark w/ fluid contamination causing problems. That can be resolved temporaly/quickly w/ a cleaning from a quality brake cleaner, not carb cleaner. the terminals in the fuse panel can be "tweaked" w/ a pick to make the connection tighter. But, the main issue after cleaning is to determine what the "common denominator" is. in other words, do any of your problems arise from the same fuse/circuit ? I will check my manuals tonight & get back to you asap. mjcanoe

CEThomas, there is no seal between as mentioned. there is one for trans., either manual or auto, & there is one for t/case. they are not the same & if you need p/n, a good parts store could match w/ seals you remove. if not, i could get oem p/n for you. mjcanoe

johngw43, did you get problem resolved? let me know. mjcanoe

jeepaholic, you do not have to remove trans to drop t/c. I do someting close to what jeepcoMJ mentioned. After removing all needed linkage & shafts, just drop the drivers side of Xmember & loosen passenger side. Then use "flex" 9/16 or 14mm to remove top nuts. mjcanoe

dracon79, there are ground wires on the passenger side of block behind & above oil filter. I believe 2-3 wires on stud that dipstick tube bracket is attached to block. these will at times affect sensors. If you choose to go aftermarket gauge, get '91 up t/stat housing & add a "T" for that sensor. Works great for my mj. mjcanoe

Wildman, 2 sensors on driver side of block. The sensor w/pigtail is temp. The sensor w/ a plug on connector is knock sensor, it looks like the connector for injectors & sensor body is longer then temp. sensor. mjcanoe

onlyinacomanche, There not too bad, a bit harder if done on the ground, but if on ground, make sure you raise it high enough for you to work comfortably. It does need to be high enough that frt. axle is completely unloaded. Make sure you use safe jack stands to support mj. Oil pan has to come off, since 4.0 runs a 2-piece seal, 1/2 in brg cap, 1/2 in block. These steps will help in either situation: 1) drain oil & let sit o/night to drip(keeps you cleaner). 2) remove frt. track bar from frame & wire it to steering linkage. 3)Remove starter, bell housing shield & exh. pipe, secure out of the way. 4) Remove 4 nuts holding trans. mnt. to x/member, so you can raise back of trans. w/a jack of some sort(will give you more room to work). 5) Remove all retaining bolts & seperate pan from block. I use a short pry bar w/ the edge sharpened almost like a scraper, then tap it between pan & block w/hammer(stay away from the oil pump) usually I start behind t/cover, then move to back about 4-6". You will bend the pan but, it can be straightened out once removed. Once pan loose then drop down in frt.. & forward a bit to clear bell hsg., then down & out the rear. 6) Clean old gskt off block b4 removing rear bearing cap, straighten pan & clean. 7) Remove brg. cap, seal1/2 in cap easy, but clean gunk from cap b4 installing new(direction is based on "L" tabs). Upper a little harder to remove, you can use 3/16 rod w/a mild point ground on one end or what suits your fancy. The seals have a wire insert that you can tap on, BUT YOU MUST CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE SEAL SURFACE on the crank. Those diagonal lines you will on crank are supposed to be there, they "work" the oil back to pan sump. Once you get about 1/2-3/4 of seal pushed out other side, carefully pull it out with good pair pliers of your choice. Then use a good cleaner to flush out debris from where seal was. 8) Lube upper seal w/a good grease & install w/the lip pointing to the frt. of motor. Work it in slowly & patiently so you don't skin the back of seal, you'll see a small ridge there. Then use quality lube on cap brg. & seal, install cap, torque to 80 ft.lbs. 9) Installing gskt is not bad if you use a late model style gskt that is one piece(Fel-Pro). I have had great succes w/using 3-M spray adhesive. Spray on block after swabbing clean, then on the mating side of the gskt. Spray 2-3 times each & allow to get tacky. Make sure the tabs @ rear cap are inserted & the "U" @ rear is in place, then just add some rtv sealer @ each corner & then reinstall pan in reverse of removal. Then reassemble, make sure you change the oil filter. mjcanoe

onlyinacomanche, Agree w/ suggestions, cleaning is critical. As far as the sealer on the v/c, it is a silicone sealer that can be removed w/care. 1st, scrape off as much as you can, then use a good wire brush & solvant like carb. cleaner. make it very clean. Then just use permatex grey rtv & apply evenly to the "top" of inner casting, this is w/v/c upside down. Allow to cure at least 2 hrs. Meanwhile you can clean the sealing surface on the cyl.head w/brush & cleaner. Use shop rags to absorb excess gunk by putting the rags inside of Head. I've done hundreds that way over the years & only problem I had was @ rear when istalling as metioned b-4. Last longer then cork. Either way you go, snug up v/c bolts every so often. mjcanoe

jeepnut_99, It can be done, but will require a little bit of work. On the '88, the upper & lower chrome trim between side marker lamps attached by rivets & the grill was "sandwiched" by them. On the '92, i believe those pieces were a part of of the grill. You'll want compare the header to see if there is enough to rivet to. The outer trim rings should fit w/no trouble. mjcanoe

Pete, My 7 year old beagle, Ivan will do that every time weather is to ruff to have his shotgun window down. Still no a/c in mj, so he he spends a lot of time hanging out the window. Your ? reminded me that when he was about 8mos. old riding in back of my cj5, he saw another dog in a yard, & jumped. Leash held, collar didn't. Only going about 30 mph, but he he had roadrash from his scrotum to his snout. Still loves fresh air tho. Carly looks like a dog my daughter has called Scout. Beautiful pooch. mjcanoe

lostissues, Man, I'm sorry,. Meant no harm, I really should know better with as picky as I am(ask my wife of 30 yrs) then to say that to someone who has an idea & goes for it. mjcanoe

lostissues, Toss the doors like pingpong? I think. sorry, long day mjcanoe

87manche, i was raised in the state of "what's round on both ends,but high in the middle". N/E around Alliance, used to be rubber band capital of the world. Got more speeding tickets there then in the 30 years I've been gone. Must be old age. mjcanoe

Oizarod115, Good for you. sweet deal. Plus I won't regret selling my 242 I have planned for my mj. Sometimes when $ are tight I get tempted to open my "stash" & sell. mjcanoe

CW, DON'T use brass, it is one of the "stickiest" metals out there, like copper, it retains & transfers heat better then what is now offered as exhaust hardware. Used to be used many years past, but w/increased operating temps. of modern engines, has been faded out for the most part. Anyway brass is definately softer then then the flange on exhaust header. mjcanoe