ifixit8

Ummmm ... Purolator is a MAJOR aftermarket manufacturer. They are not Advance Auto's "house brand." sorry tired, didn't think that one thru. you are right. power flow is the "house brand". my bad. and I didn't see Purolator at any store untill advance. so before I worked there I didn't know the differance.

I work for advance auto parts part-time and the only "Brand" available for the 4.0 is the house brand called Purolator. I have used 2 with no problems. so I guess I will continue to use them. I have used fram in other cars with no problems. this is interesting to read. *edit* I wasn't thinking right and worded things wrong. Purolator is NOT a house brand for advance. My bad.

I just figured out what I got mpg this last fillup. I got 11mpg. then again I remote start the thing alot and I drive about 8 mins to work. not good for any vehicle. I can't wait till it warms up more, then I can drive my tiburon or my motorcycle.

just paid $3.32 today at a meijer gas station, for 87. at under 22 gallons to fill my tank, I think it's time to pull out the tibby. This thing got about 11mpg at $72 bucks. that is just ridiculous!!!! if I was driving the tib, i'd get about 19mpg with romping on the car.lol

if you take a volt meter to the constant and the switched wires to ground, you should have voltage on both. if everything is good, then I'd say blown radio. if speakers we're blown the radio would still power up, just not produce sound. same thing goes for speaker wires that are grounding out.

I agree, yet another jeep converted to a "hummer h3" status.

Don't part it out!!!!! Have a mechanic look at it. it kind of sounds like you have a blown head gasket. what lead me to that thought is the gas mixed with oil....... good luck. hope that helps. I was in a similar situation about 2 months ago when i found my oil milky, which means coolant in the oil pan. in two nights with some friends we did the change.

I doubt that system is hurting your mpg, if anything it should help it.

I might do a swap this summer when I put on my doors with power locks, and windows. the only thing is that I need to get a new fuse box. I do have one from a 90's camaro, dunno if it will work though.

I would love to have any of those cars, including the GLHS. one of these days i will find and buy the cherry one. that laser thermomiter is sweet. we sell it at advance too, maybe I'll pick it up soon with the discount. ;)

I was able to special order the back ones from my part time job at advance auto parts. And if I remember correctly, they had them next day. make sure you specify if its the front or the rear ones that you need.

I paid $600 for mine with rust in the cab corners and over the passenger wheel well, and a blown rear end. Its all up to you, and how much you'd pay. You also have to think, do I want to get myself into this truck with it's problems. I personally would go for it at a maximum of $500.

have you checked the fuses? I found out that on my fuse box some of the terminals are very loose, I had to shove some metal in with the fuses for them to make contact. another thing that you can do is get a haynes manual and trace what each wire does, along with a multimeter and figure out if your getting the correct voltage at the right wires. I had to remove trailer wires and replace my license plate sockets awhile back. having that book helped alot. hope that helps.

that is one big fish :eek:

very sad to read, he will be greatly missed............. :cry:

I'm going to be dumping mine right before the rear axle; so about half a foot after the cat. Would that still be at the 2.5", or would it be down to the 2.25" at that point? Sorry for the hi-jack. it should be 2.25. I love the fact that i won't have emmisions on my truck since it's so old. I guess in my area that if the vehicle is before 96, it won't be pulled. So I just had a straight pipe to the muffler. and yesterday i had the egr tube hole on the manafold plugged.

good find. gotta love free vehicles. my first car was free from my grandpa. that was a sweet one, 1984 plymouth Turismo.

sorry my bad, was very tired the other night when i typed it.

I doubt having holes in the exhaust on these trucks would throw them off so bad that they wouldn't run right. heck for the first 4 months after i got mine back on the road it didn't have a cat and the rest of the exhaust. the thing ran fine and had plunty of power. Mine also has been running without the egr tube hooked up off the manafold. that rusted and broke off. the only weird thing that I had happen was the idle would shoot up high. I drove the truck with the tps unplugged for a couple of short runs, plugged it back in and the thing has been fine. check the basics, fuel pressure, spark, etc. then go from that.

how many miles? and after you check fuel press, i'd check the timing belt. those cars love to throw a timing belt at about 100k.

cool truck, welcome to the site.

Ya but the ride is gona kill ya I dunno, I have about the same with the front of my truck. it's doable and liveable for awhile. basically i just did 3" coils, adjustable track bar, 1 3/4 spacers with 3" lift shocks, stock control arm's, and cherokee end links. granted my truck isn't level, but I soon will get it leveled out.

ah, yeah that makes sense. duh to me, reversing polarity. but do I have the right colors that should go to a 12volt source? If you can provide an email address I'll send you the color code drawings and spreadsheets. sweet thanks. Ifixit8@hotmail.com I have a haynes manual and it's a little vauge. so any help will be great.

how much for to just lift the front end without the track bar? thanks. and great to read about another company providing another kit for the mj. another Q. do you have a t-case drop in this kit? just curious what you do for this kind of lift.

ah, yeah that makes sense. duh to me, reversing polarity. but do I have the right colors that should go to a 12volt source?