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Everything posted by mfpdm
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tail light plug question
mfpdm replied to STERLING STINGER's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Here, look at these. 88 MJ 92MJ Now go see if what you did matches what the diagrams are showing you. :thumbsup: -
Heck with the pics Take lots of cars at the museum :D Will you be taking 40 across or whats the other one, 10? I know going the lower Texas route it's like days before you get out of that state. :roll: Be safe. :thumbsup:
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Glad the diagram helped. :thumbsup: In the Navy, I've experienced more than I care to admit, many hours trouble shooting something to only come back the next day and find it was a switch out of position. :doh: :cheers:
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As a matter of fact, no. However, there is a member on here that is an AMSoil distributor or just a guru on it. Can't remember them right off hand but they have it in there sig.
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Did they work prior to the swap. Not that it would have anything to do with it just trying to see if they ever worked. You should have 12V on one side of the brake switch because it's always hot. here's the diagram for the lights. As you can see there are four separate connectors from the turn signal switch to the rear lamps. If you have a 12V at the brake switch going in, then you should have 12V going out and then at every connector. May have a broke wire in there somewhere or your turn signal switch may have bad contacts in it. Since you say the front signals work, I'm thinking a broke wire but electrical gremlins are always tricky. Hope this helps. :cheers:
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Ah the ole sloppy tilt column. I had to do this as well. Here's a link for you that has great pics and other links as well on the subject. http://brackmann.org/berkeley/Jeep/wren ... gwheel.htm :cheers:
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Was working on cleaning the garage over the weekend and during which, I manage to get a couple of things done as I came across different parts. Cleaned up the bucket seat floor brackets and threw a coat of paint on them. They were in great shape with just a little surface rust on the bottom. After a couple of coats of paint, ready to be covered up by the seats and side trim. I had pulled a like new OME steering stabilizer sometime back and since I had the paint out gave it a couple of coats and then put it in place. Learned why the ZJ drag link is not mentioned by people that have done the tie rod upgrade. As seen in the pic, the top of the shield will hit when tighten all the way down. I guess if it was a stock stabilizer, it would be ok but, I'll be pulling it off and putting the stock drag link back on. I did the oil pan gasket sometime ago but didn't post the pics. Used the one piece Felpro gasket. and of course that meant I had to paint the bolts. Cleaned up all the gray interior pieces and selected the best ones for the project. Also decided to go with the Land Rover interior lights to replace the stock problematic ones. I'll lose the ability to turn them off at the light but I'm ok with that. Will be using LEDs so they won't put the much of a drain on the battery. I've been going back and forth on the radio to use in the truck. I wanted to stay stock but I wanted to have a CD option. Was going to use a stock am/fm with a 12 CD player but with limited space in the cab, I didn't want to take away storage. I've looked at a lot of after market ones but even with all the great options, they don't seem to flow with the interior design. Started looking at other stock radios from different autos and came across a single CD/AM/FM out of a Ford Contour that is basically the same size as our stock radio and has a similar style. Used the stock radio bracket to install. First used some zip ties to get the right measurements and then drill some holes and attached it to the radio. It fits well but if the radio is not dead center the buttons either on the top or bottom will stick when pushed. I'd have to trim just a hair on the bezel, which you know I'm not fond of. I'm still debating but I think I might go with it. It does have a factory amp that goes with it that boost somewhere between 20 and 40 watts. I know not a lot but I don't need much with the infinity speakers. Figured it will mount on the backside of the computer mount under the dash. Will play with that once I decide if I'm going this route. And to wrap this up, I finally found a NOS set of JEEP letters for the header. I'm hoping to continue to regain interest in the project and start updating on a regular basis. :cheers:
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00 TJ Sport, 4.0 auto After time and money. Rubicon Express superflex kit with 3.5 springs and OME shocks. 33" FC II's on MT classic locks Best top supertop Best top tire carrier 2004 Rubi D44's front and rear (not in picture but installed) 2004 Rubi 241OR t-case Tom Woods rear driveshaft and local custom front shaft from a 2004 Rubi Superlift speedo calibration unit Rubicon fender flares Custom front and rear bumpers and sliders from Ryan's Fab. And almost forgot, Soccer antenna ball for 10+ hp. :D
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Need help with a NP241J install into the MJ
mfpdm replied to Comanche County's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I put one in my 2k TJ. The 4wd indicator switch was even different for it. The 241 uses one that puts out different voltages for each position. The only one that works on mine is when it is in 4 lo as that is the only one that matches the right voltage for the indicator in my TJ. I use to have a link that had the info on it but can't seem to find it now. I bought the connector at the dealership and spliced it into the 2k's wiring. :cheers: -
Comanche of the month, Jun 2010 --- WFC's 1988
mfpdm replied to Automan2164's topic in Comanche of the Month (MJOTM)
This one is truely amazing. I can't even fathom the time, effort, and cash, you've put into this to achieve your goal. Well Done. :thumbsup: :cheers: -
I don't even need seats. Was just picking them up to offer up on here. I hate to see tilt forward seats get crushed if they are in salvageable condition. I'll recoupe some of it when I post them in the classifieds. :D :cheers:
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That's the one. :eek: Worst of it was no one was around to even ask for help. I almost called my son on the phone to come and get me. Thank god for my oh $#!& straps or I'd never been able to pull myself up into the Jeep. Probably the same story I got. They said your getting old and that you been hard on your back all your life and now your paying for it. :yes: Or was it your paying me for it. :cheers:
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No, I'm ashamed to say. :oops: I've been working long, and playing little. Then threw my back out which has caused me all kinds of delays with everything. I have kind of lost a little interest and initiative on the ole gal. I've collected some parts and plan on getting back on track to finish this so I can move on to the next project hopefully. Will update soon with something. :shake: :cheers:
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Bucket seat restoration and repair. (Lots of Pics)
mfpdm replied to mfpdm's topic in MJ Tech: DIY Projects and Write-Ups
Here's another example of getting a set and cleaning them up. They were solid however, they really must of had a heavy driver. I've seen the cushion wore out before but never seen the metal cracked on the bottom. Luckily, I had a spare to swap for it. Lots of nice grease from people wiping their hands off in the JY. After cleaning them up. They turned out pretty good. Definitely the best tan ones I've seen personnally. :cheers: -
Well since Jeff shared his mis-fortune with us I figured I'd pass this along. A few weeks back I was out at the JY and was having a great day. Founds some nice things and the best one was a set of two door seats. Wheeled my haul out to the TJ and started loading it up. Was putting the last bucket into the back of the TJ when it felt like someone stuck me in the back with a sword. I couldn't move for about 5 minutes. I finally could stand back up and figured I just pinched something. I lifted the bucket again and threw it in the Jeep when I got the sensation again. I crawled to the drivers door were I took another 5 to 10 minutes to lift myself into my lifted TJ. Went home, took some advil and laid down in bed. Woke up a couple hours later and couldn't get out of bed. Long story short, I screwed up my back, couldn't walk for two days and have been going to the chiropractor every day since. So all in all, my nice buckets cost me so far around 2 grand with all the doctor visits. :shake: I did finally get the buckets out of my TJ and cleaned up. (insert smiley taken vicodin and valium here) :cheers:
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Jeff I don't feel so bad now for doing the same thing with my half doors. I didn't drop mine near as high but it did hurt even with sneakers on. Best of luck in your recovery. :cheers:
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Anyone in the market for fuel injectors. Precision fuel injectors is having a good sale on them through their Ebay store. Act fast as the auctions starting at .01 are ending soon. They also have buy it nows for $89. These are the mustang 5.0 injectors. Lots of others as well. http://motors.shop.ebay.com/precisionfu ... 513&_pgn=1 :cheers:
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Best looking and hardest to find, Black Interior. Very Nice. I might have a black ash tray for you. I'll have to look in my stash-o-parts. :thumbsup: :cheers:
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Uhmm, you do know that the light has three functions depending on the postion of the lens right. (ON, OFF, and SWITCH) Change the position of the lens and see what happens. Oh and if you knew all that, check to see if one of your door switches is bad. :cheers:
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I had the very same thing happen. Arrows were pointing in the right direction however, if you looked at the numbers, 1-6 was upside down from 7. 7 is the key because it can only go on one way. Check and make sure all the numbers can be read from one side with none of them upside down. I ended up replacing the new bearings because I used a big @ss wrench to turn the crank and scored the new bearings before I found out what I wrote above. :cheers:
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Sad to see after all your hard work but I understand, Duty Calls. :cheers:
