mfpdm

Moving right along... Decided to try my hand at doing the headliner. First I had to pick a good backer board. Cleaned it up. Test fitted the fabric. Then sprayed the adhesive and put it in. I ended up almost being too short in the back. After letting it sit for a while, I folded the edges and glued them down. Used small strips of wood and clamps to help make a good bond. Prepped the cab by putting in the insulation that I used on the rest of the interior. Installed the speaker mounts and seat belts. Put the headliner up and the a and b pillars to help hold it in place. All in all it came out ok, but I will be doing another one to replace this one. I'll then paint this one with fabric paint and put it in the Mild build. I also notice a pretty good crack in the drivers b-pillar trim so I'll be replacing that in the future. Will leave it like this for now, but I'll have to pull them back out to put the speakers in and get the bottom trim in after carpet. Also manage to install and wire up a new mirror with map lights. Write-up can be found in the DIY section. In the process of doing the headliner, I managed to pull on it and pulled the mirror mount off the window. :fs1: I'll have my glass guy put it back on when he puts the rear glass in. more later. :cheers:

This project is quick, easy, and should cost around ten bucks. :brows: Since we all know the stock interior lighting in our trucks is not the greatest, and the 20 year old mirror is loosing it's silver, here's a way to improve both in one shot. Pick up a lighted rearview at the JY from any late model car in good shape for, in my case, $3. This was a Donnelly mirror out of a GM vehicle. It has two map lights on the bottom with switches on the front and a 3 wire connector in the back. First thing I did was figure out the wiring which was pretty easy with google. The orange wire was 12V, the black is ground, and the white is switched ground. Now for a power source. Since I have swapped the dash harness with an 89 XJ, it was pretty easy for me. However, you can tap off of either b-piller light and get the same results. I used the XJs wiring harness that ran up the passenger side that fed the vanity mirror, keyless entry, and dome/map lights. I removed all the keyless entry wires which left me with 4 wires. Here is the harness after removing the needless stuff. You can see the vanity light plugs about in the middle. r Even if you can't find this harness from the JY, you can make one with(4 wires) or without(3 wires) the vanity option. My headliner and interior trim is out right now so this was a good opportunity for me. I drilled a hole between the visor clips down close to the window to pass the wires through. Be careful not to push to hard and hit the roof or that the bit catches and spins the drill into the window. I wasn't planning on one that big but the connector on the back of the mirror needed to pass through it. You could probably do without this, but I didn't want to take a chance of the wires causing the headliner to bow out. Since the vanity plugs are already on my harness, this left me with just having to splice the three for the mirror. The wires should be pink 12V, black ground, black with white stripe switched ground. I soldered them and then wrapped them up, but you can do what ever makes you feel comfortable about it. I then fed the connector end for the mirror through the hole, ran the wire along the top and down the passenger a-pillar with the stock wire ties. Now if you are tapping off the b-pillar light, you would just run it back there instead. Again, since I have an XJ harness, there is a convient plug for me under the glove box for me to use. The fourth wire which is purple(12V) is for the vanity light and I'm pretty sure it is from a different power source than interior lighting. If your lucky, you'll find a mirror with the little wire cover that hides the wire going up the window. And here's the results. With door open, they both come on with the rest of the interior lights. And with door closed, you can operate them with the switch independently. Now you could go for the fancier ones with temp and compass or what not but you would then need to tap an additional power source and run extra wires. I think this keeps it close to the era for the truck. One final note, when you get the new mirror, it will probably have a wider mount then what is on the original windshield. They make adapters for this or you might find it with the mirror in the JY. Since I just had the windshield replaced, it came with the wider mirror mount. :cheers:

That is what I like hearing. The rear harness on the XJ has some weird crap in it. I think that is what was stonewalling me from doing what I thought was right. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: I appreciate your efforts good sir. :bowdown:

Now your talking. :thumbsup: Believe me, the Wild build has tested my abilities and patience. It takes up both of my garages and I can barely move around in them to get any work done. I was lucky that I found the 86 and was able to get it running so the son could have something to drive. At one point I was working on both of them and not really focusing on what I should have been. I only do what is needed for the 86 now and just work on the Wild build. It's slow, I make costly mistakes, but I love the feeling I get looking at what it will be one day. Even if it is just a dream in my head, it makes me feel that it is worth it. Take a break from all of them and just get one that you can drive for awhile. Then work on the others at a slow pace. I imagine that they will still be there if you relax a bit. Keep the Faith. Oh, and I will be having a hugh garage sale when the Wild build is done. I'll keep the good and hard to find, but everything else will go. That will include the 86. :cheers:

Bingo. :clapping: I don't want you to try and do that on your phone. However, if you could maybe write it down and fax it or mail it, I'd make it worth your time. Maybe a picture of the pigtail would be nice too. Only thing that may throw a wrench into it is that being a 94 XJ it's an H.O., I'm thinking that the wiring change from the Renix era and it may not help me with this 89 XJ to 88 MJ issue. I've sat down with the old harness from the XJ and basically the crap that was above the left rear wheel kind of has me stumped. The three relays which as I understand from the diagram is for the power locks, left and right turn signals, and brakes lights for the towing harness. Looking at the MJ diagrams, these don't exist. :dunno: Again, please don't try and do that on the phone thingy. It would have taken me an hour just to write what you did above. :dunce: :cheers:

You mean as the seller or buyer? The buyer. If the seller is on here, I know he's laughing to the bank. :D None of us cheap suckers would pay out that amount. Hell, that's the price for a whole truck with the tail lights in WI. :cheers:

Yep. Everything from the dash connectors back. Basically, the XJ has 2 main connectors that supply everything from the dash back. Among them is fuel pump, sending unit, tail lights, power for the doors stuff, etc... The MJs only have one main connector and another that is flat vs square like the XJs. I figured as many that have done the 2.5 to 4.0 swap, that someone would have tackled this and hopefully took some notes down. :thumbsup: :cheers:

Sorry for any confusion. The cross body harnesss is what started the whole wiring issue. Without the rear XJ harness, the cross body harness gets no juice. So it brought me to the point which I knew was coming and that was how to make a XJ dash harness work with the rear MJ harness. I've figured out the power that supplies the door locks, windows, and mirrors. However, I'd rather figure out the whole thing before I piece mill it together so I can make pigtails using the leftover rear XJ harness and MJ dash harness. :cheers:

Yep. :nuts: I hope it wasn't a member. It all most makes me want to list up my spare reserve set which are in better shape than those were. But with them getting harder to find, and me owning 2 MJs, I'll hang on to them. :brows: :cheers:

I've spent way to much time fighting this today so I figured I'd take a break and ask. I'm using a 89 XJ wiring harness in the engine and under the dash. I've got both doors wired up with the cross body harness that connects them. However, this is where I'm kind of stumped. They connect to each other but there is no connector to the harness from the dash harness. I'm guessing that it is one from the harness for the rear of the XJ. So long story short, I've search the board and found no specific threads on just exactly what wires from the XJ dash harness are needed to plug into the MJ rear harness. Detailed write-ups, notes from when you did it, pictures, or what not will help. I have the wiring diagrams but they are more trouble than their worth. What I would like to do is make a pigtail that will connect the XJ harness to the MJ harness so I don't have a ton of splices and so the process can be reversed if I come up with or need a new harness. Once done I'll do a complete write-up with pics seeing how this is a common swap for the dash harness. :cheers:

I know you already have it, but I thought I'd throw this up for the next person looking for it. You can also see the location of all the bed pads. :cheers: Keywords: Bed Bolts location removal frame x-member member

Wow. That's how I pull them in the JY all the time. Stock and lift coils. Sometimes I have to stand on the dropped side and pull up on the coil. I am assuming you had the tires off. Did your bumpstop bottom out on the drivers side? Only other thing I can think of besides the obvious is to pull the axle side bolt out of the LCA on the passenger side in case it was bottomed out on the axle mount preventing it from dropping any further. :cheers:

Just un-do the bottom shock bolt and swaybar links and jack up the drivers side of the axle. Should give you enough play to pull the coil, drill, and put it back together in 30mins. :cheers:

Couldn't find it in my manual, however I wouldn't think more than a couple of hundred. I know me and my kid pulled ours off without anything hitting the floor. I'd say if your rope is rated for better than 500lbs, you should be more than good. :cheers:

I doubt that. If he did, he wouldn't support Cash for Clunkers. :D That XJ has probably been in service since it was new and the government has been using the hell out of the those Libbies from service vehicles, security, VIP's, etc... That does look like a government plate. Too many digits for a personal one. I'd like to of seen a pic of you sneaking up and putting a ComancheClub.com sticker on it. :thumbsup: :cheers:

Another quick update. Found a really nice set of 97+ door to body seals so I cleaned them up and put them on. Here you can see the insulation in the b-pillar as well. Since those are in, I put the windows all the way up so I could put the locks and latch assemblies in. Packed them with new grease. I got real good at putting the passenger side in seeing how I did it three times before I was finished. The first one I put in was from the donor XJ so it did not work well as they wear different from vehicle to vehicle. Found the original MJ one and put it in only to forget that it didn't have the rod clip for the power locks. So third time was a charm and it operates great. Set of locks I picked up from a 96 XJ. You can see how nasty the touch up paint is. :shake: I'll likely replace them with a new set later. The thing about the later locks is that the face plate is a little bit smaller than the older ones. Wouldn't be a problem but I'd like to cover up more of that touch up paint. The passenger side closes and opens great, however the drivers side takes a bit more to close and it pops open a bit harder. I'd rather not have to slam the door to get it to close so I may end up going back to the older style weather stripping. Funny thing is, the 86 MJ is the same way after the 97+ install. Not sure why the drivers sides are so much harder to close? :dunno: Also got the wiper motor and linkage cleaned up. For the bracket that holds it in the middle, I put some gasket material to replace the o-rings that were there. I'll do the same on the firewall side to keep it leak free. Back in its home. Got most of the engine brackets and pulleys painted and more cleaned up for painting tomorrow hopefully. :cheers:

:agree: Had one on one of the ships I was on in the Navy. Excellent skeet gun. :thumbsup: :cheers:

Well I can't remember how many times I've been bitten, but none of them was by a pit. The two major bites was by german shepherds and the worst one was in the face. Dog chased me down on my bike and started chewing. Owner claimed that I must have done something to him but my friends that were with me knew better. Those were never reported attacks so I'll agree that the statistics may be skewed somewhat. The quote didn't keep the link to the data they used which included all the breeds so here it is. Click Here My current dog is a mutt however it has akita, shepherd, husky, and chow in him which are all on that list. He's never bitten anyone but, I know he is more than able if he wanted. He's a great gaurd dog and has all my neighbors respect. I do agree that how a dog is raised will impact his actions, however you might be doing a great job but something happens that your unaware of that sets him on an agressive path. For example, I consider myself a good dog owner and have never thaught any of my animals to be mean. However, I had a chow mix that unknown to me, was being teased by my neighbors kids. I caught them one day and caught my dog as she was halfway across the fence. From that, she hated children and was quite racist even though I tried to teach her that it was wrong. Just remember that you must respect that a domestic dog has primal tendencies. After all, they were bread from some form of wild dog, some hundreds of years ago. So you don't think I'm just blinded by the stat's, here's a link defending the breed that is a good read as well. Click Here And here's a snipet from it. Your dog is very capable of hurting someone. It's just up to you to make sure he doesn't. :thumbsup: Again, not trying to attack you about your choice of dog, but it's not one I think I could own. (yeah, I'm one of the "others") I'll let it rest and I sorry to pull this off topic. I hope that your new member of the family will give you many years of loyalty and companionship. :cheers:

Not that I believe everything I read on the web but this is an interesting read with a lot of facts and links to other sites. Dog Bite Law You may say urban legend but it seems every owner of a dog that has attacked someone starts off with, "He's never done anything like this before". Kind of like, " he was such a good kid, went to church, helped the elderly, I just can't believe he killed all those people". Here's a snipet from the above link. I'm not preaching, just showing what I found. My neighbor raises and sales the pit's and I cringe everytime I see a bunch of kids playing with those cute little puppies and the parents handing him the cash. One final thought, Why would you title this, "himz gonna eat cha!!!", if not in the back of your mind you didn't think it might be possible. Again, just a thought and not trying to start anything here. :cheers:

2nd. Grumpy old men. :D :cheers:

I thought it was just me, but yeah it's way slow. It used to let you opt out of the new set up but now it doesn't. I'm always deleting cookies so I'm screwed with the new crap. I think what is slowing it down the most is their new ad banner stuff. If you watch at the bottom as it's loading, it gets hung up on the ad server. Because of this crap, my ebay surfing is down by 80% at least. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. :no: Or is that if it ain't broke, screw with it till it is. :thumbsup: :cheers:

Kind of confused at what you are saying here. It seems your saying you got voltage from two of the wires on the dome light. :dunno: If so, you have something flowing juice to a ground. The three wires on the dome are +12V, ground and switched ground(this comes from the door switches and when you turn your headlight knob) If the switched ground has voltage on it, it could cause some of these problems. You may want to check your door switches and headlight switch. :cheers:

This kind of goes in line with the youngest CC member thread but I didn't want to hi-jack his thread. Reading that one made me wonder at what age did you buy your first Jeep. Doesn't matter what type as long as it was a Jeep. I wanted one since I was a kid by finally got my TJ at age 37. My son bought his first MJ at age 15 and his second one at age 16. :cheers:

Nice work. :thumbsup: I would not use a stripper for the decals. Most on here have used a heat gun or magic eraser. Reason being, if the paint is adhered well, which it looks like it is, you don't want to break that bond to expose the bare metal. Most strippers I know of will do just that. I used a heat gun and then sanded once they were off. :cheers:

Well I got a piece of glass yesterday. Had the newer rubber gasket installed verse using the clips and trim pieces. I like the look. The top corners stick up a little, but I think once a couple of hot days hits it, they will lay down. The slight difference from the cherokee is the cause so I'm happy with the installation. The MJ was happy to get out of the garage for awhile. Managed to get the tranny cleaned up today. Haven't decided yet if it will stay natural or if I'll paint it to match the motor. And to rap the day up, I got the head back on the block. Still need to get new push rods, rockers, pivot bearings, and bridges to finish the head. I'll get some parts painted tomorrow so I should make more progress in a couple of days. :thumbsup: