JeepcoMJ

great theory. doesn't work in application. had one that managed to wreck the winch and spread the frame rails on a '01 TJ. if he had a real bumper, it would have scratched the bumper, and done nothing else. I LOVE how they look. HATE how much they really just suck.

above and beyond that, if you're doing an interior swap, it's not your fault that the dash is the wrong color, or style. you still have to have the vin. so, you're saving the state from confusion. anyways, I'd just hit it with some silver paint. light coat.

flat head screw driver, heat gun. takes them off perfectly. replace by heating the plastic and applying emblem adhesive to the back side of the plate. don't apply too much adhesive. I've had to do this with interior swaps (changing color) as well as 97+ interior swaps.

you don't need to bend the top back...you need to bend the front back. you need a press, or some other means off pressing the front back...plus heat for the top. do yourself a favor and lift the bumper. one handed. then come to the conclusion that ARB's look great, but are NOT strong bumpers. then fix it, paint it, sell it to some city yuppie for $700, and buy a real bumper. I've handled several ARB's. wouldn't put it on anything I expected to hit something with.

I'd be more worried about the loose metal sitting in the rockers, to be honest. looks to me like that motor should be tossed. loose metal in the rockers + piston skirt in oil pan = metal running through oil passages = high chance of detonation without acid dipping the block...and even then you can't trust it. that's a complete rebuild you're looking at. it honestly doesn't matter what it looks like under the head. $#!&-can the motor, either swap another 4 banger in or do a 4.0 swap using a complete parts vehicle.

I fail to understand what valve train has to do with the piston skirt. You need to pull the head off to discover the damage

it's nice that engineers took that into account. typically, in my opinion, engineers over-think things and the end result is that common sense is never taken into account. is this on your motor, a project jeeps, or a customers?

yeah. not changing the belt at the proper interval is NOT a good think. in my experience, most vehicles with a timing belt are interference motors. you'd be lucky not to damage the valves. direct experience was with 2.1l turbo diesel in an 86 comanche.

nope. comanche roof above drip rails is almost an inch taller. cherokee vs. comanche lund visors are not the same molding. won't work, edge that fits over drip rail will be too high, and it won't look right. and you'll have to trim out part of your drip rail to make the cherokee one fit. definitely not a bolt-on, and not worth the hassle.

Lawyers? Seriously?

the pump has the capacity to run H.O. pressure. the pressure regulator will accomodate.

http://www.hweckhardt.com/clamps/new2/S ... Clamps.htm a.k.a. stepless ear clamp. used widely in the beverage industry, commonly seen on jeeps for slip-boots on sealed output tcases, as well as most CV joints.

what year is the truck? if it used to be a 4.0, the pump will work, but the gauge will read backwards. if it's a 2.5l, the pump will not send enough pressure to the fuel rail. other than that, I always just get some high pressure hose and oetickres and make an adapter hose to go from the stock fuel lines to the fuel rail.

wranglers don't have vents like that. not stock, at least. never seen a yj with one.

yes, and we sanded the paint around them first. I have to block it out tonight. I'm just the helper. the guy doing it does this for a living. darren...all the spots on there weren't rust. they were screw holes or dents that got pulled out or plug welded.

oh, did I mention...this truck hasn't even heard of rust \ I'm also adding chrome everything available to it, and a windshield visor

I've been putting around working on other people's jeeps here and there, and have had the honor of working on this cherry '92 (91 production date) Comanche. I have to run the vin to get the actual package, but metric ton is one of them. specs... '92 mj 4.0 aw4 4x4 d30/d44 3.55 column shift bench dummy cluster lwb 3" front lift with drop brackets AAL in MT spring pack. things I've done to it/am doing to it... full gauges with shift indicator modified into them buckets/full console new headliner remove drop brackets brakes dual diaphragm booster/mc rear bumper front bumper driver's door hinge/latch and paint. on to some pics

ok. what are you going to do about the wiring? cause everything in the engine bay is different, engine computer is different, does it come with the crossmember and trans mount? how about the driveshafts?

so... what did you do to seal the gear lube into the diff? those alloy usa seals seal at the outside of the axle...and that won't work properly.

wix/purolator. they're not garbage. i cut one apart and it looked more like wix than anything else. they are all I run...no exceptions.

put a wireless router in your parents house, that you can pick up the signal from your house with.

they're the same, and it sounds like someone swapped the tie rod end out for one that is larger. if it's nice, I'd just ream it.

that's a bad break. no way in hell you've got good compression, no way and hell the cylinder wall is good. motor is going to need machine work. buy a motor or get a parts vehicle.

Did it, doesn't work. Have to put flex joints in the front leaf bushing to make it viable. The sprung steel simply doesn't twist enough for revolver shackles to work properly. And at that, you don't want your suspension moving side to side on the road.

a simple "3 way" vented toggle. i'll see if I can drag up some pics.