JeepcoMJ

No. one is missing

ouch. how're the control arms? likely bent I'd think. body-wise it looks very fixable, though.

lol. glad you made it home safe! now for an open cooling system...stupid coolant bottle.

realistically a built longblock stroker is the way to go. the phrase "poor man's stroker" is a load of BS. sure, you could build one for cheap...but the machine work to do it properly, and time spent figuring it out, running things to the machine shop, and back, and the time setting the motor up, plus the lack of warranty, make it really infeasible. and like i said before...if you don't balance the crank out for the weight of the rods and pistons attached to it, you will likely have a short lived motor. drop some coin and just get one. then upgrade the bolt-ons.

Jesus effing christ. You will under no circumstances be using 4.2 push rods. You don't need to even think about them. You will be using 4.0 push rods.

And get the crank shaft balanced to whatever crank and pistons you use. Biggest mistake with budget stroker builds. Makes for a powerful motor that doesn't last long.

You need to remove push rods from the equation. You are going to be using them period. 4.2 are not an option. When someone talks about rods in conjunction to crank shaft, they are speaking of connecting rods.

if it's a stock split rear, the only way to install new glass is to remove the entire window. new panes are not available.

looks good, but could use a buff job real bad. bet that old red would shine up real nice.

doubt that. 96 was the first year OBD2. all the trans connectors are different. the trans will swap and work, but you will have to redrill the torque converter bolt pattern onto your flexplate. not a big deal if you have the old renix flexplate as a pattern. the cable that goes from the throttle body to trans is shorter on the renix trans as well, but they can be swapped. you can NOT mix and match the torque converters between trans. do that, and wreck the trans. the fluids that have been run through them have contaminents respective to the wear and tear of the transmission they were operated on. introducing the contaminents from one trans into another will end in disaster.

trans completely done, x-member done, 4x4 linkage done. put the proper speedo gear in as well. on to driveshafts.

whoa pat. do you have chubby fingers on a new phone? :rotf: lol. auto correct. fixed.

Try the tc solenoid first...not expensive. Then the while trans. No sense doing a tc when the trans will already have continents in it from old one. It will wreck new one abcs cost twice as much.

crossmember is different as well

Crown vic was the most comfortable and least expensive car I've ever owned

Glad to do business with you...that box was heavy lol

For a couple months, then it stopped working entirely

Torque converter solenoid or torque converter itself. Same issue with my 94 crown vic...caused me to scrap it

I consider an A/F meter mandatory to monitor the mixture and a FP regulator as the best means to adjust it. Without these you're just shooting in the dark. You might luck out and nail it correctly the first time, but the odds are it'll run like a pig or worse. I'm running an 01 fuel rail on my 99 (the vehicle that my stroker is in), with the stock 01 regulator. have not had any issues thus far. on original 260xxx mile fuel pump as well... Do you think I should do something about it? or just leave it be? sorry for the hijack.

I haven't heard from him for quite awhile, but he's a very respectable member and surely wouldn't try and screw anyone over. if you didn't recieve it, something happened to him or that involved him and it has slipped his mind.

Notice the xj rear bumper...

trans is in, torque converter bolts tight. goodbye body side 4x4 shifter bracket. hello custom one. now I can install the transfercase, cooling lines, crossmember, exhaust, and move on to driveshafts.

if you bore the block, you will not be using stock pistons. you will use pistons that match the bore. the 12 weight 4.2 cranks are older, so the snout that the harmonic balancer mounts on will have to be machined down to match the 4.0 crank. It also has more rotational force than a 4 main setup. thus, it takes alot longer to wind up to high rpm's than a 4 main. that said, once it's moving it moves very well. I've got a 4 main 89 4.2 crank in mine, with rods matching. .030 hesco pistons and rings. I went with a competition cam # 68-115-4 for low end torque and gas mileage. I'm also running a 99+ intake, borla header, 62mm TB, and neon srt4 injectors. total build cost was under $1000 for me, but I have a few connections to get machine work and such done for free...and I was starting with a block that was already mint low miles bored. It's a very peppy, snappy motor, I've beat subaru WRX's with it, and get 18mpg at worst when I'm absolutely hammering on it. 17mpg was my worst when it was in my other truck with 35" tires on 4.10 gears. for your engine, from what it sounds like you want out of it, I would suggest the competition cams 68-201-4 for a nice medium power band. you will still be able to run pump gas, and should see minimal predetonation. you will need to modify your map sensor. go to strokers.com to check it out, or speak directly to hornbrod as he knows infinitely more than I about strokers. http://www.compperformancegroupstores.c ... e=A6CAMSHE

Thanks - I expect to bring the "new" XJ home Thursday or Friday. Then I'll see what I can figure out. Yes, I would prefer to keep it Jeep, but if I can go aftermarket for $30 compared to spending a hundred to be purist ... in today's economy practicality is going to have to win. If this were a NEW XJ, then I'd be more concerned with keeping it all Jeep. this is the benefit to doing it my way...I want to have some programmed for mine anyways, so I can just pull the overhead console and swap the RKE out once the dealership has programmed a couple for mine, then have them program two for yours.

the lights on his flares don't work...one is actually missing. I don't like the front suspension either. that center joint is off of a new holland 4wd tractor. not designed for over 25mph... needs a redesign, for sure. but if all he does is wheel it, or little trips in town, it will be fine i guess.