JeepcoMJ

87manche, we found out the tranny is junk..I tried eagle's idea on shifting w/o the computer fused...didn't work. so i took the bottom of the tranny off with intentions of testing the electric current through the shift and tcc solenoids, and found almost a cm of metal shavings in the bottom of it. the fluid was brown in there...but looked good on the dipstick. i'm goin the easy route and replacing it with a 100k mile junkyard tranny and torque converter. also the computers are being replaced too. i'm testing wires once it's out.

in regards to your speedometer, the simple thing to do is get a GPS (borrow not buy) that can tell miles per hour, drive and figure out exactly how much it is off via that. then go to your local jeep dealer and tell them you need a speedo gear that will fix that problem. They should be able to tell you how many teeth you need to add to make it right, then you can either be robbed by buying one from them (whatever their price is), or buy one off ebay for cheap. MAKE SURE that if you do it that way, you order one for your tranny style (i.e. the speedo gear coming off the right side of the tcase or the left side...yours being left side). I ordered one that was correct for mine, but it was for a speedo drive on the right side of the tranny which means the gear teeth were slanted the wrong way...so it hopped all over the place! and don't go down to 3.55 from a 3.73 ... it's pointless you'll be riding 200rpm lower at speed than with the 3.73, so it won't save you mileage or anything. 3.73 is a good ratio for mild off-road use and on-road (highway) use as well. you should run about 2000 rpm at 55 to 60 mph and get about 16-19 to the gallon with those gears, unless you have some radical engine mods. p.s. i'm glad you got rid of the 2.8...i did that with mine but installed a v6 1996 camaro 3800 instead (more torque + horsepower w/o mods).

CRD means? common rail diesel. Alex good luck on pics of CRD engines. we have a Renault 2.1 comanche that I'll take some pics of. they're actually more common over in the UK and france than here

ahhhhh! the dreaded combination...2.8 and auto...man i hope you're switchin that to a 4.0... umm, i think it was 3.72 or 3.73 that was in the 2.8 auto cherokee i had. not too certain though...

CRD means?

here's a picture of the ECU connector view. it tells you what all the wires coming from the Engine control Unit do. so that should help if you know anything about wiring :D

John said $5 to $8 INCREASE. not minimum. so he'd be getting that much MORE than he is right now.

replace the fuel pump relay. that should be it. if not, you need to get a diagram and check the fuel system wiring to see what is wrong with it. check pin number 21 on the ECU (light blue wire), that's the fuel injection control. also, pin number 6 on the ecu (oranche w/tr) is the fuel pump relay control. check those wires and see if they're there. If it's a connecter problem, those are it. spray the sh*t outta the pin connecter, but be reserved on the ECU (engine computer), as too much can corrode and damage the computer inside. but those are what your problem would be...fuel pump relay, short in those wires, or a short in the relay wires. If it's not that, then your fuel pump is bad...in which case I have a basically brand new one here at home so let me know if you need it!

there should be tail light fuses there somewhere...i forget. if it's not that, pull your tail lights outta the bed and check the wiring out there then follow the wires all the way back under the truck to the cab and see how they look. if they don't look bad, it's in the cab (think lightswitch etc.)

Sooo you're saying I'm gonna have to get a whole cherokee harness then...

that fusebox is a 95 on up cherokee fuse box. the one in your truck is under the dash next to the brake pedal on the driver's side. should house all of your fuses. if not there, you need to be taking pictures and posting them here so we can help you out...cause somethin ain't right then!

Hey, I have a 86 MJ that i want the newer cherokee interior in. does anyone know if the interior wiring from the newer style cherokee (98-01) will plug into the engine wiring of my 86? I don't have the stock engine in the 86 anymore So I'm basically just using the original harness to run power to the interior and accessories, as well as operate lights and wipers. the engine has it's own seperate harness...the only things that tie into each other are the oil pressure sending unit, temp. sending unit, and tach signal sender. I just wanna know if the 86 engine harness and the newer cherokee interior harness will mate up at the firewall? thanks.

here's the sub box we built for my bro's truck...his measurements were off now we can't move the seats all the way back :(

IDK man, i just wanna know if i CAN substitute a dakota ax15 for my ax5. second gear is starting to die real bad on it...

Oops. Yeah, the pan full of metal chips would definitely be "a clue." Bummer. at least i was gonna yank it anyways to put in a new torque converter that i got for free. i just payed $100 for the tranny WITH transfer case out of a 1996. I'm paying another 200 for the whole truck that the new tranny came out of...i want the air bag system for my 86 comanche, as well as the new 4wd selector handle. it has a 8.25 rear end as well. I'm putting the cruise out of the 3.8 camaro i got my engine from in it...so that should be some interesting cross-wiring to figure it all out! woohoo!

the one thing i dislike about the benches is adjusting them...i had to straddle the tranny hump and push back on the floors while holding the slider handle to make all 3 of mine go back. I just had a great thought on that though...if you put it in a cherokee, put passenger side power seat tracks on both sides of it, and then wire the passenger side to work simultaneously with the driver's side. the reason i said both passenger side is because passenger sides don't have the extra options on them that the driver's one. coincidently, a pair of driver's side ones would do just fine. I just may do that with the next MJ project...nothing is better than havin that sweet chica riiight next to you for those romantic evenings spent mudding

reguarding the ductwork, the circled screws are the ones you need. drain and disconnect your cooling system from the heater unit inside the engine compartment. I think there are 6 or 8 screws to take out the heater box. two are behind the engine and a few more in the open. then unplug the wiring inside and pull it loose. take girsmj86's advice and get a manual.

steve, what paint did you use and where did you get the dye? can i dye my seats from blue to black? and did the dash turn out well?

I don't know anyone who has done it, but here's some info; forget it if it's a 2 door...moving the seat for people to get in is just nonsensical. it's the same hight as a typical xj seat. the xj drive hump is the same as well. yes you will need to remove the parking brake, and most likely to pass any safety test you'll need to install a comanche parking brake on the driver's kick panel. you will need the seat tracks from the cherokee, although you only need the outer track from each seat (probably leave both there for each side for sturdiness and they're tack welded down and riveted so it's hard to remove) furthermore, they may not bolt onto the bottom of the seat, but it probably will. if not, then a little drilling might be required. I suggest spacing it up a little bit while you're at it. doing that will eliminate any problems you may have with clearance. also remember to install the comanche female seat belt ends and the middle belt.

well Eagle, bad news for me. the tranny is TRASH. i tried that, it didn't work. took the bottom of the tranny off to check the current running through the solenoids, and found that the bottom of the pan is FULL of metal shavings. no clue what the heck happened. but at least I have another tranny with 100k miles on it!

ah. replacin the interior harness while you're at it? probably not a bad idea...

why are you replacing the harness? just wondering.

86FUBAR, do the 3.4. i know you don't like wiring, but the FI is probably the BEST way to go...runs much smoother and in many more angles (upside down for instance :D ) If not, then here's some info for you. this is the site to get the edelbrock intake from. if you go that way, buy the 4v (4 barrel) one, and get a holley 390 cfm carburator. you'll spend 600 bucks on all that probably, but trust me it will be worth it...the whole point of the swap is to get rid of the vaccuum 2 barrel carb...swapping to a 3.4 will do no good if you keep that carb. http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/man_sbchev.html this sight has a great writeup on the swap, http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cherokee/x ... 4swap.html and this one. http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl= ... n%26sa%3DN this one is in-depth about everything, with pictures too. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Pro ... ect_XJ.htm I have all of these from when I was gonna do a 3.4 swap to replace my 2.8. then i found the 3.8 and decided on that instead. If you want to do the 3.4, buy a junk car or get an engine with complete wire harness and engine computer, you'll need some of the wiring regardless of whether or not you go FI. now here's the kicker, I CAN get you ANY wiring diagrams you would need if you decide to do the fuel injection. keep that in mind. the wiring is real similar to my 3.8, and I believe the only thing you would have to purchase is that passkey bypass from BAKERELECTRONICs.com. let me know if you need any info, i'll be checkin on it!

trial and error. don't cut anything unless you're certain you have to., and if you do, mark it.

I thought that the dakota 4 cylinder was a chrysler motor? is that still the same bellhousing as the 2.8? I was told no since the 2.8 is a 60 degree motor/bellhousing system, the dakota ax15 would not work. can you clarify that, I'm SICK of my ax-5 being a POS! :headpop: The AX-5 isn't a POS, but if you're not happy with yours, so be it. I have always understood that the Dakota 2.5L was the Jeep engine, but now that I'm looking for something to document it, I'm not finding anything. I'll keep looking. That aside, what possible difference could the fact the 2.8L is a 60-degree V8 make? The transmission doesn't know or care how many cylinders are in fron of it or if they are in-line, 60-degree, 90-degree, or 180-degree. the 2.8 is a 6 cylinder. the difference between 60 and 90 degree is the bellhousing. the 60 degree has a specific bellhousing, while the 90 degrees have another. the 2.5 from 87 and 86 has the 60 degree type gm bellhousing, while I am not sure of which the dakota 2.5 has. and the ax5 specifically isn't a POS. however, mine has a bad 2nd gear syncro. i can drive it just fine, but if I pull it i'm putting a better tranny in so i can transfer the power from my 220 horse 3.8 buick to the rear axles and NOT worry about breaking anything.