JeepcoMJ

i'm running the d35 on my truck with the camaro engine...it's pushing 250 horse almost, according to the dyno, along with around 275 torque now that i reprogrammed the computer and added coil packs. that rear end is holdin up to burnouts so far...at the very least it's doing better than my tires are...

if you find the factory winch bumper, you are a GOD

yep and that would prolly make it easier

not if you're not wheeling it. well, if it's a show truck maybe...

sorry no pics on this one...but i was comin into school when i was 17, i drove a $300 vw cabriolet with a leaky roof then. there's a nice 90 degree right hand turn coming into the parking lot...and i thought it'd be fun to drift through it. suffice to say i can't drift, i'm no ricer...knocked the rear axle clean outta the car and bent the left alloy rim into an L. bent the titanium struts but luckily no damage to the unibody...i fixed it for $1400. drove it a few more months, then sold the thing for $1350 to pay for just over half my paintjob on the comanche...and i didn't get my money's worth. i miss that car :( the girl who bought it ran it into a garage door frame now it's all dented up :(

i have a fog right in the middle/bottom of my toolbox in my truck...and i usually drive with the tail light down. i backed it to the front of a escort when adjusting to aim in the general direction :P haha, and cops...just don't get caught it's a good way to get your car impounded or a ticket for wreckless endangerment/driving. :eek: p.s. i've used it many times with the desired effect :D

yea the mj frames are pretty tough. rocker action comes into play on corners/rocks etc when you slam the side into an object. rock sliders would be a useful thing...but I think i've taken a good enough look at Pete's to know that i can build my own (perhaps even better...just kidding Pete). basically, I'd build them before i would buy them...but that's the way i am with almost everything. except lift kits..i will leave that to the Pro's. as for the stiffeners...I think i'm in the same boat. don't take this the wrong way at all...there is a market, cause god knows if any of us had money we'd just buy the product and bolt it on...but i know i don't at least lol.

arb air locker is roughly $700. good luck with the project...you will surely spend quite the penny on it, but it will be worth it for selectable lockers!

cool. how far along are ya now? worked on it any more recently?

yeah if you're even mediocre at wiring you can handle it. just don't twist the wires together...that's crap. and duct tape is not an insulator, get some shrink tube.

welcome comanche5L yea i love RC they're great lifts. i'm actually lookin at buying a RC 4.5 or 5" leaf system if they make them...not add-a-leafs. that's the one thing on my truck is it was 2wd so it had lower springs on the back and the add-a-leafs didn't lift it as high as the springs did. but i wanna add an adjustable track bar and 4.5 coils and new shocks to the truck to make it work the way i want :D i love the 3" but i want a lil more room in the wheel wells for the aesthetics.

ha, that's another problem. i had purchased a new pressure plate and clutch for my truck 13000 miles ago when i first got it, put them in and drove it...had no problems. took it out and found the clutch burned real bad (and i DID NOT abuse the truck at all). the pressure plate was contorted. we troqued everything to specs...but it didn't take. the thing was appeared to be catching on 1 side and not on the other. ironically i never noticed, as it didn't slip (from what i could tell). then again, with the 2.8 engine i had it floored in 4th gear to get it to do 55 mph, and in 5th gear i would at best lose speed, unless i had tailwind :D so yes it could be the clutch/pressure plate. or it could be heated fluid...heated clutch fluid is never a good thing it bubbles :(

jeff, there is 1 flaw in the system...you need 2 hoses running from this switch to the actuator. then you need 1 hose running from a vacuum source on the engine (vacuum canisters...inside right fender on 2.8/early 2.5 and behind front right bumper on 4.0 and later 2.5). without a source for vacuum, there will be no actuation. or when you mentioned vent line, did you mean run one from the acuator on up? if so I'm still fairly certain it wouldn't work...it's like hydraulics...to move it 1 way, fluid (air) is pumped in 1 direction. to move it the other way, air is moved in from the other direction. to do that a vacuum would have to be applied to either actuator input and they would alternate serving as a vent or vacuum. I believe i am correct in my thinking...anyone have input on that? i have one of these switches in my spare console and i like the idea of using it.... Pat

haha, nice. that's the defroster switch for the rear window of a cherokee...not a comanche panel sorry. easy thing to do is pull the switches from it, and paint over the front of that panel with some nice matte black paint and then get a couple fog light switches and wire 'em up. the switches have different functions so they're not all 100% interchangeable...although if you have a test light you can make them do anything!

the fact that it works better in the cold is a factor of bad clutch. have you experienced any clutch slippage since the new clutch? i recently had a similar experience with mine, when i put the camaro engine in it it had a thicker flywheel and i didn't accomodate fully for that..resulted in the clutch slipping when i stepped on the gas. drove it mayve 30 miles on a almost new clutch and took half the life off it in one go... end result of that was that my throwout bearing and plate were too thick. i had to shave the back of the plate off to allow the plate more room to swing..needed to get about 3/8" gap between the throwout bearing and the pressure plate...if there's no gap, then the bearing is ALWAYS engaging the clutch, resulting in minor, if not unnoticable slippage.

only thing it has goin for it is the black interior that i desire soooo much...

like rokhound said...find a complete cherokee and convert it with that. even if you have to spend a day at the junkyard, get all the parts you need. it'll make it that much easier if you get it all from 1 vehicle.

your way is right...leave as much connected as possible. the only problem i see with the project is that, as it is coming out of a wrangler and not a cherokee or comanche, the harness wires will not be the same lengths as the comanche ones. you're gonna have a chore to make everything work...

did you get it running yet?

HOLY FENDER FLAIRS!!!

i was thinking of just getting the whole thing, sawzalling the front off from the doors on up, then taking the parts i'd need respectively and swapping them...like the firewall... i may swap to the 4.0 while i'm at it. i didn't know much about auto tranny's before, but i'm messing with a aw4 right now for my xj and it seems fairly simple...and this RHD donor is a RHD HO xj. 93 :D even though the motor is junk, the harness is there and i could make it a pretty easy swap. i think that's the next thing i'm gettin from the jy...the owner is holding it for me, no one can touch it! sorry to jack your thread with questions...

that's actually probably the easiest way. but i think jb is looking for the sleek look of a lowrider...

if you read closely, you'll notice i said as long as it has the same engine. they ARE the same through 88 on the 4 cylinders or through 86 on the v6 2.8. in 87 they changed to the 4.0 6 cylinder and THEN the hood and radiator support changed. jbhill, you'd have to do alot of custom work to make the center latch work...it would be easier to stick with the outer ones probably. either that or you will have to change the outer supports, as the earlier style radiators were narrower...and therefor had a narrower radiator support.

and it's the inner side of the bracket i bet... they won't let you exchange it? hmm....did they tell you it will work? if they told you that it will they HAVE to take it back. cause then it's their fault. unless of course you put it on and used it already...i did that with the inline fuel pump on my MJ...didn't put the fuel pump relay inbetween the computer and pump, it was gettin power but not enough...so i thought the pump was bad. went and bought a new one...that didn't work. then i wised up and fixed the problem :D...but couldn't return the new pump. at least now i have a spare...

hey comanche5L how hard was it to paint your truck like that? i'm going 2-tone with my dad's it will be alot simipler but i've never painted a truck before...