JeepcoMJ

sweet! my mom's b-day is on the 17th but i talked to her and she said go (i'll get her something nice). and i'm getting the other truck FOR SURE now. i pulled the dent outta his 87's front right fender, repaired the header panel, installed a new(ish) grille and headlight doors (tho i'm giving him a chrome 10 slotter and nice chrome headlight doors), fixed the starter relay, putting in matching maroon bucket seats and center console out of a cherokee, chrome door handles, and mirrors, and bumper. he's keeping the rear bumper and tow hitch off of the 89 but i get his other stock rear bumper (which is in decent shape but needs paint) instead. and the 25" tires he keeps but i'm doing all that and then i only pay 1000 for the 89 with a small amount of rust and he doesn't care how long it takes to pay him. but it's got new shocks, new UCA's, new brakes, dana 44 rear (stock :D) with 4.10's, split rear window, and stock fog switch @$$'y. it's a 4.0 with an ax15 tranny, np231 tcase, vacuum actuated front axle, full skid plate options, bedliner (i'm giving it to him..i don't want it), truck cap (for sale perhaps) vent wing windows, cruise, etc. basically it's a good deal...well, sorta. the fact that i get a payment plan has me sold on it as i will then be able to park the 3800 and take it to shows/summer drive it, and lift, wheel, and DD the 89. sorry for the rant...i'm excited :D this is my WHEELING TRUCK and it WILL be ready for attica with a 4.5" lift (can't afford more right now without a loan) and 33's.

me gusta. when can i see it?

only if you keep the bedliner...for which you will have to cut holes.

...and the gas tank :roll:

i like the drop pitman arm :D :bowdown:

lookin good but your doors still don't match

actually, the outer (upper and lower) trim pieces off the old style will work (by screwing them in...holes are not there to screw in so may need self-tapping screws), the grille will bolt on directly, then you run into the problem. the headlight buckets are slightly different, but that's actually not the problem...they work with the old style. what the problem is is that there is nowhere to screw the turn signals to, or secure the outer edges of the headlight doors to. with some inginuity, some thin tin, and a few sheetmetal screws, you could do it in a couple hours AT MOST and NOT have to change your header panel. oh, and the bumper will need to be off for that mod...you have to drill the new trim pieces.

NEVER pb blast or wd40 a cable you are using...it's a temporary lubricant. go to the parts store and ask for a graphite cable lube for your speedometer. the graphite lube is designed for that and well worth it. check for binding first, and for too tight of bends. check everything i suggested in my last post before you decide the cable it at fault (could be that you put in the wrong style speedometer, or binding speedo gear) but do the graphite lube just in case...which to do so, you will disconnect the gauge cluster and squirt the cable lube into it, or remove the cable entirely (best option for perfect functioning) and do it while spinning the inner cable around

to read them, look for the main components you'd need...you don't have a control module, so what you're looking for would be power wires (Tan and Red), grounds (black most likely), and then crossover wires. so to be simple, get a relay for the battery plus power (red) and that will be always hot for the locks, and a relay for the accessory power (tan) so that will be only ignition on and running so that your windows can only work when the key is on. then you need to do paint by numbers and see if the wires match going accross...if not, then you will need to look more in-depth at the diagram and figure out what wires go to or from what (self-explanatory in the diagram, just take your time). remember, the 98's had keyless entry OR a simple body control module. so there will be unused wires as you won't have the body control module. I'll tell you right now, it's easier to get the whole system than to do what you're doing...i.e. if you can still go back and pull up the carpet and seperate out the connectors and wiring and control box for the doors, do it because you could even get keyless entry then.

add my brother with his mj and his friend luke who bought my 87 shortbed...they're probably coming as well.

:P my junkyard will let me do whatever the @#*$ i want. the owner is a family friend. sadly, i've got maybe another month and a half of this jy...he's selling it cause he's sick of the fact that the DNR is on their backs (they ARE doing a public service...if they weren't here we would have junk cars everywhere...who cares about a little bit of contained contamination as long as he at least TRIES not to contaminate the soil) so...i'm gonna blow a grand there on parts in the next month or two (yay credit card...he accepts them through paypal!!!!!!) and just load up on all the parts i could possibly need from him back to the 8.8 breaker bar will be more than enough. remember you need to take the driveshaft off, and ya might as well take the whole spring packs as well. bring some nice tin snips or bolt cutters and cut the break lines...you will have to cut what you aren't using.

it only works when ignition is on, and that wire doesn't do anything...it may be for the bluish ring. use a test light or voltmeter to find out if it has power...if it does, and you have a light, there you go. but there's a power wire that goes to the back of the cig lighter (round connector) and a ground wire that clips to the side.

if you go over the wiring diagrams that I offered, you will note which color wires do what...you simply have to read it. run the power to the driver's side, and match up the colored wires between the driver's side and passenger side. there is a connector for the rear doors...which you won't need. but everything you need to know is in those diagrams

you can do that combo...not sure which leafs. and I'd say torch it out...cut the brake lines with a bolt cutter, cut the front ebrake cable off (or scrap them to retrofit the mj ones to it) and cut the bracket off, torch the bolts out and drop it with leafs intact. or cut the main spring as you won't be using that... but if the jy has got a torch for you to use, i'd say that's the best idea

directly inline with the stock bumper brackets but on the outer side of the frame...there should be mounting points (nuts) already there. build a bracket and tie the hitch system into your rear bumper...to keep the stock look of it :D

so are the headlights the same between the two? if so...I'm gonna just buy all the lights and go cut off the connectors for the marker lights and the turn signals, and swap those to the new style... if not, i'm gonna do that anyways and fit the blue lights up front...just the stock ones so that i don't have much for wiring troubles. make things simple ya know? after all...all the lights need is a power and a ground. :D

lol, i'm driving. loading a 6 person tent in if i can borrow it from my bro's gf...so we could all just crash in my tent i guess. someone gets to bring the grille tho...

yup, your speedo cable is binding. two scenarios..well, 3. 1. you had one style of speedo cable clip with your old cluster and switched to the different style cluster..and now your speedo cable isn't locking in place 2. you have a cruise control cable and it's binding at the cruise control piece 3. it's cockeyed or needs lube and is binding. 4. (there's a fourth one?!) your speedo gear isn't centered correctly (due to the offset on the np231 speedo gear assy's)

these are 98 diagrams...should be the same through all the 97 plus. you can see the "wires" and their colors... two toned wires (striped) such as PK/BLK for example, are pink wires with a black stripe. it's fairly simple...save the images, view them expand them to see better if need be, and you can see which wires are which. you should have a relay or at least a fuse. run power from the relay/fuse throught the driver's side door and then crossover the wires to meet their corresponding wires in the rear. using the diagram, you can figure out which ones you need, and which ones you should shrink tube the ends of (rear door wires). fairly straightforward, enjoy. p.s. i also have the front light diagrams...i just have to upload them to picturetrail. you seemed interested so i did this tonite

agreed. wade i'll head out with you...joe (beaterjeep) will probably come with, and a few others. and by the way, i'm getting an 89 4.0 5 speed 4wd for cheap in trade for fixing up an 87 4.0 auto 2wd, so we've found my wheeling truck. it'll be ready

I will look on alldata after work tomorrow night and get the wiring diagrams for you. just sit tight..i can give you EXACTLY what you need. what I need is the exact year of the cherokee the doors are off of. I would hook up the power locks as well, seeing as you have to run power to them anyways. like i said, sit tight. lemme kno the year and i'll check into it tomorrow round 7pm

I say we camp, and we head out the day before and plan on two days of being there...or at least one solid day. I'm not drivin there in the mornin to drive home at night...not with being 5 hours away

NO only 1990 and earlier 4.0s will work. later they changed. get it from a renix systems 4.0. yes, you'd be better off getting new, and the temp sending unit is about 15 bucks, oil pressure is about 30 bucks at most. remember to get it for a full gauge equipped 4.0

wierd :popcorn:

cluster will bolt in. you need the temperature sending unit (on a 4.0 it's on the back corner of the head...can't remember which corner), and the oil pressure sending unit (kinda bulky item with 1 wire down by the oil filter). but i recommend replacing them...old sending units can sometimes be faulty. reach up behind the dash to get the cluster...taking out the kneeboard will alot for more space. one type of speedo connector is a squish (like a child-proof advil bottle) type, and another one has a push-in retaining clip on the back of the speedo cluster you have to push. check what type you have, and get the cluster for that type, or get the speedo cable (fairly simple...think your way through that removal). also get one off of a similar year and equipped engine (a.k.a. if it's a renix [90 or earlier] get one from that year or it won't work)