JeepcoMJ

I laughed :teehee:

NICE JEEPS. I've flat towed...alot. tatersalad (my old beater) was a flat tow rig. it's tough when the towed vehicle is higher than the towing vehicle...wouldn't really recommend it but you can do it. towed the xj I parted out recently approx. 60 miles and it was fine, pulled by an xj. couldn't go too fast, about 60 was the most I'd take it to. towed the 2.5 I just got home, it towed like sh*t cause I didn't have the keys...I broke the wheel loose of the column lock so it would turn, but not the greatest. didn't help that it sat a long time and had manual steering. It's fine to flat tow for small distances, as long as you're careful. you have to remember that your weekest link is the trailer hitch and towing assembly, so you'll want overkill on strength (meaning grade 8 bolts and heavy steel). under-kill on it could kill. literally. tatersalad had it's rear brake lights wired to hook up to the tow vehicle's trailer system. even the reverse lights worked (5 pin).

I'm doing exactly what you did minus the rust stuff on the 89. I have a sump paint gun (sucks paint directly from the paint can :D) that I have access to it looks good, I like it.

if the locks are off a cherokee they will work

uh...no. to tow a trailer you need trailer brakes and such if you're putting your manche on it. you could do it, but you'll hate it

I'm with you on the paint. not a fan of re-paints unless I do it myself. that means I need to learn how to paint...cause I'm NOT ever paying for another paint job again.

bull$#!& it didn't sell for that. if it did, the guy buying it was a tool. no offense, but I don't think that thing was worth over $7000. not one penny

I'm now 95% sure that I can go. I don't forsee having anything else to do...

haha yeah, what happened to THAT?!

I installed that kit (one like it...same but different control switch) into an MJ for a guy. works great

nope, not what I'm talking about. the connector piece is a different end crimped onto the lower cable for cruise control. it has a different depth and flare. then it also has a nut on it, you screw that into the "transducer" and then screw the upper (short) cable into the transducer from the other end, and finally clip it into the gauge cluster. I'll take a pic of my junk cruise control cable (hit exhaust manifold :() for you.

floor shifter assembly, and the shifter cable that runs down to the tranny (through the firewall to front left of tranny bellhousing...it's on a bracket that's held on by 2 bolts). the shifter assembly will be the actuall shifter itself, and then there is a "plate" that goes underneath it that you would need. then it's supposed to have a cable that goes to the column that makes it so that the key won't come out if you turn it off while it's in gear...I would just do away with that (your column will have the little connector for that on the top lefthand side IF it's from an automatic) by using a zip-tie to hold that little connector up. I will take a pic of that this week for you on the new column I have going into the 3800. you'd need the gauges from a non-column shift as well (unless you don't care about the shift indicator being there) ...but only if the shift indicator wasn't part of the column itself. then you simply take out your column and shift cable, swap in the new one, and swap in these parts. nother thing you'd probably want would be the light harness for the floor shifter...it has a connector right next to it and that's easy. scale of 1-10, you're at about a 3. remember to remove the column with your wheels straight, and install the new column as straight as possible to minimize the amount of adjusting you'll have to do.

the dana 35 on my 86's both have tags, my bro's 88 has a tag on the dana 35, my 87 sport truck...had a tag on the dana 35. even the parts xj I had had a tag on the dana 35. I just wanted to clarify, they could not have them, or they could have them. chances are that if they're not there, then they were removed when gear fluid was changed (yes, you SHOULD change gear fluid eventually) or it fell off. I've never seen anything to prove that they didn't come with tags.

wow. dude. that's frickin awesome... did ya think about retaining the gas tank as a fuel reservoir? I'm contemplating doing that and using the fuel pump to pump the gas...

anyone have any pictures of a MJ box trailer...? I'd really like some...for ideas

lol...i just didn't know if you were bein an arse or if ya knew him lol

i don't get the dick comment

absolutely not. parts won't interchange. convert your truck to floorshift...then put the tilt column in... or wait for a column shift tilt... I wouldn't use one from a different vehicle, but that's just me. you can find one easy enough out of an xj

yep. that box is right in front of your right knee behind the kneeboard. take it apart and reset it :brows:

got a test light and a buddy? have him operate the brakes/turn signals and test which wires light up in the connector.

lol. I like my wiring plans...you still need to know what to splice, BUT you don't have to cut into your factory harness. go to the jy and get the chassis harness to tail light harness connector (which is behind left tail light or dead center from the rear of the bed about 1 foot in is the connector on the other ones) from a junk mj. get both ends of it, remember to leave enough wire to splice together. then you splice the two wired ends of the connectors together with your trailer wires too, disconnect the connectors on the truck, and clip the junkyard connectors in. essentially it makes a "disconnect" trailer harness that's 100% removeable and thus doesn't harm your OEM harness at all. sorry if the explanation doesn't give you a mental picture of what I'm talking about..

it's part of an aftermarket cruise system. guaranteed.

exactly. actually, not complicated at all. it would just need a regulator and a flow control type thing. flow one way a certain amount, a basic computer chip controls turning and how far that way, and vice-versa. at a no-flow rate, you could have the basic chip designed to re-center the motor/axle based on a sort of sensor that has to line up with it's counterpart...a.k.a. if it's not "lined up" the "computer" tells it the motor to "re-adjust" until the sensors get a clear reading of each other. actually, burnout rate on the motor would be minimal too...because it only needs to apply the pressure to turn once for starters. after that, it only applies to turn if the axle starts to move...you'd turn the dial to say, a 9 o'clock position to turn that 90 degrees left. leave the dial there. computer compensates by controlling the motor and saying "ok, you're turned that far now, you can stop turning...." I think it's an idea worth looking into...and I suppose IF you made it hydraulic assist steering (power steering) box, the turning would be very simple and you'd have an extemely reliable system.

umm...so why can't you just put the outer ends of a front axle onto a rear axle (matched diameters), then put the front hubs on, have custom shafts made or find a set that would work, put hubs on it for 4wd or lock rear axle permanently, and then set up the steering components with a similar to stock steering box? i know you can't run a shaft to the steering box, but seems to me that you could set it up with a little 1 horse electric motor to turn it, or bigger of course if needed, and then you wouldn't have to worry about the power steering...if the motor were strong enough that is...