JeepcoMJ

pics of motor and the fan that was on it

this looks like a job for... DA DAA DAAA DAAAAA! duct tape and gorrilla glue :D

Yeah, and tire balance has always been my culprit (except in the WJ, where it was warped rotors), and for someone else it's insufficient caster... There is, unfortunately, no one thing that anyone can point to and say that THIS is the definitive cause of death wobble. we can say THESE are the definitive causes of death wobble. now figure out which one you have dammit :eek: j/k lol

name plates? I know what you mean, but "name plates?" come on... badges man, badges.

I got the engine outta the MJ today, and got it basically prepped to go into the xj. it'll probably be in and bolted up by the time you get there..unless ya wanna come earlier and help out (no practice so I'm stayin home and gittin up early). things I need to do are: 1. clean the motor up a bit 2. install new clutch and decide what I think of flywheel (have 2 to choose from :D) 3. install full gauge sending units 4. remove idler pully and install power steering bracket in it's place 5. swap over some vac. hoses etc. 6. remove valve cover (it's cracked around the bolts and leaks) and install the one from the other motor, along with new gasket 7. clean bellhousing, grease input shaft, pilot, and throwout slider thingy-hoodgy 8. put the motor and starter in and bolt her down 9. re-hook all of the connectors and hoses 10. install "new" 3-core radiator and new coolant lines 11. fill all fluids 12. start her up. realistically, that's only about 3 hours of work from a to b, so then after she's running and driving I gotta swap the window motors on the driver's side doors for good ones, clean the interior a bit (and clean the parts outta her) then all it will need is a nice wash, and the pioneer CD player installed. it also needs a new windshield soon, but that's not the worst thing in the world. and I will be boxing up and gettin ready to ship all of the things that you gents had wanted from me too.

sadly you still need the cherokee non-power slide rails for the swap. you have to put the comanche lower pedistals on the cherokee sliders and then you can bolt it all up. then you get into height again...if you get the rocker action cherokee bucket bracket to alter, you add 3" to the seat height in your truck. I'm 6'1" tall and it's fine in my opinion, but I don't smack my head on the roof getting in anymore... :roll:

looks great! but attack that cab corner rust now before it takes hold even worse...

it's electrical. dialectic grease on all connections. and yes, the teeth may be bad on the gear.

...so did TNT

yes, I too would like more details on the tube doors please

no drop pitman arm. by installing that, you disrupt the parallel that the drag link has with the trackbar and that will screw the geometry of your front axle up, giving you bump steer. I think you probably have a lose trackbar, OR a bad axleshaft ujoint (or two). my ujoints are bad on the front of my truck and were binding (uh...I say were because I'm pretty sure tha they're no longer 100% intact...it's getting fixed this week) and when that happened while hitting a bump, they wobbled the $#!& outta the front end.

The base pedestals for the MJ are totally different from an XJ. Bolt spacing is the LEAST of the problems. Use the pedestals out of the MJ. eagle you forget that the power seat assembly is much, much different than even a normal xj mount. to use the MJ system you'd have to do away with the power option.

it's hig geared but under-powered most likely. the stock gear ratio for that would be 3.55, 4.10's with an ax5 5 speed tranny will get you to 75/80-ish. it's a stout motor, but not a hellraiser by any means.

well...I would stay away from autozone. idk about new motors, but maybe now is the time for a stroker :brows: anyways, there are a bunch of crate longblocks, and I'm pretty sure I would never buy a complete engine from autozone. and as for the ax15 swap, a complete ax15 trans with t-case (due to spline count differences) along with the 4x shift linkage, the ax15 clutch and pressure plate, throwout assembly, probably should get an external slave one while you're at it anyways (different bellhousing and hard to find but at least you don't have to split the trans. to replace the slave cylinder when it goes bad). also a new pilot bearing will be needed.

I'm joining...

well you actually have a pretty big ordeal on your hands. because the power brackets don't bolt to the mj floorpan, and the mj brackets don't bolt to the xj power brackets. if you put the MJ brackets on the xj power brackets, your seat will be about 8-9" taller than normal, and that would be a problem... I think your best bet is custom made brackets (would be easy) or cut the MJ bolts out and put your own in to make it bolt to the MJ floorpan...that won't be perfect though, as the back will probably sit too low.

can you put the 4.0 p/s pump and steering box on a 2.5? are they the same? sure look pretty similar... I appreciate the help. gotta get this on my 2.5 motor as the one that's in the cherokee is probably shot.

looking at the pic further, in the first one I see a 2.5 coolant reservoir and washer fluid reservoir on the driver's side, and the passenger side you can see the relay control center for the 2.5. it's also a manual tranny, and had a/c with the old engine. the builder of it decided upon an open system heavy duty radiator from a 4.0 (good choice). in the second pic, note next to the cooling fan (to the right of it) the two small holes in the upper rad. support and you can see that it used to have something bolted there. that used to be where one of the 2.5 radiator supports bolted to. quite the interesting combination...I wish the guy had taken the time to swap a camaro 3.4 in it at least, but still interesting.

hahaha wow. it's a 2.8 v6 and that looks to be about an 88 that HAD a 4 cylinder in it, converted to a 2.8 v6. in 88 they had the same header panel as the 4.0 cherokee, just and adapter that bolted to that in order to fit the2.5 rad in it. but the 4.0 would bolt right in. anywho, you do NOT want a 2.8 v6. let's just say that if the 2.8 were some sort of food, you'd probably find a bucket of $#!& more appealing to your pallette.

only way to find out is to try it. and I think it won't work.

it doesn't fit. the hangars are different. you're welcome to try it though...interesting little project to see if they fit.

doesn't that come with an SYE? lucky guy

floor pans, and the top arch of the rear wheel wells. also, poke around on the rocker panels/cab corners and feel if they seem week... from a repo company, they're probably not gonna budge much on price as they actually had to repo it for the fact that $$$ was owned on it most likely.

no offense derek, $500 cash offer for an $1100 asking price is way...way too low, even if the truck isn't worth the 1100, the guy obviously thinks it is. I'd say be prepared to spend $800. then, without seeing the truck, it's hard to say. I would say if it does run and drive well, and rust isn't bad, and who cares about interior (members like me have TONS of interior parts laying around that we can't wait to get rid of), then it's probably worth $800. hope that will offer some insite.

are you doing the swap, or paying to do it. you'll spend at least 1500 to have it installed, and probably up towards 3000. I would do it myself if I had any mechanical ability and access to cutting tools and welders etc, because it's really not that hard of a project. the one other thing you will need to do is either switch to a 4.0 radiator and rad. support system, or find a custom radiator that will fit in the comanche frame (the camaro one is too wide...already tried that one). to swap the 3800 into my truck took me 1 month of working on the truck 3 to 4 days a week over winter break from school. I wasn't working too hard obviously, and now that I've done it once, I think I could prefab the parts and have one installed in my truck in less than 2 weeks of 3 days a week.