JeepcoMJ

rear doors would be easy bud...you use an MJ front door (since you're using the back cab anyways the door jam will work with an MJ door), cut the hinge end of it off and eliminate the wing window. square it up to match the front of a cherokee rear door, using the cherokee B-pillar and front inside of the cherokee rear door on the front of your now "rear" comanche stock door. ta-da you have a comanche 4 door with a working rear window. and actually...whether or not you can weld well on sheet metal, there's something called a polishing wheel...you use it to clean up the welds (takes time...you don't want to wave the metal by heating up the section too much) and THEN you smooth and paint it. at the very least, please square off the rear of your xj rear door and like I say, put storage in what used to be the wheel well. perfect spot for a holdout :P

I just umm...ya wow lol. when'd ya get that MJ? the box is flat out wicked too man, I LOVE the emblem location and the trailer build!

the switch won't fry. well...not right away. I've been running my fogs through a switch for over a year. changing that now since I have the relay control center from the 3.8 camaro. maybe we should re-establish how you're running yours...

if you used the supply wire from the cargo lamp in place of the hi/lo supply wire, then you'll be fine...that's a fused wire. the output wire goes to the relay, and powers the fogs. the input is the one from the cargo lamp, and as I said, that's just fused, not relayed...the stock switch can't take that kind of straight voltage running through it.

figured I'd start a thread on finding parts at the dealer, and cross-referencing them. Post anything you had to cross-reference, and who you did that with (i.e. what part store) reason for this is that I had to get the small needle bearing that goes in the front right axle shaft on a disconnect style axle...mine was gone when I went to do ujoints. anyways, the part number of the piece that was in there is J-108. I'll post up the bumper to bumper cross-referenced piece when I get them tomorrow.

I had a link to it somewhere...I'll have to dig it up. but it was very similar.

I know it for fact. I found the build thread somewhere on google...can't remember where now I think this may be it... http://rides.webshots.com/album/525849414zSEbht

you probably never will either. that thing was cut completely off the unibody and put on a frame too!

the reason that that cherokee is a cobbled POS is... 1. cherokee rear doors...are halfassed. you want a 4 door, and want it to look good? ok, then don't just plate in the !#%@$#% wheel well. at the very least add that skin to the door and put storage where that wheel well was (open the door and you get storage) or an air tank or SOMETHING. the bed had weld lines across it...it was halfassed inside and never had full body work done. the frame wasn't plated too well...it has a longarm kit on it, and that kit extends back and BOLTS the frame rails up from what I saw. the interior is rough, the bed is too short for any functionality, all round it's just rough. it's a nice "rough" job...and I wouldn't buy it.

seen that and that's EXACTLY what I'm trying to AVOID having mine look like. what a cobbled piece of crap

sell the mini van... man, if I were closer, I'd buy EITHER of your MJ's.

pics of the work done... after I did the d/s ujoint can't do the pass. side cause the needle bearing on the inner shaft is GONE. anyone know where to find one? here's the crack in the frame rail above the trackbar mount note that it looks almost like a plasma cutter was taken to it... cracked the trackbar mount too..right below and between the two bolts tossed a canyon on it just to see.. those tires are the Apache Radials that I had...that set of canyons went on the xj with the radials, because the mud terrains are too loud (and worn)

yep that's the plan. at the moment the goal is to just get that area rebuilt and get the truck working properly. I'll put a steering box brace in in a little while when I really have to. I'll post pics when I get up to the house.

I've been having issues with this truck, the dent in the side not-withstanding. So today I attempted to fix the problem. On top of the bad axleshaft U-joints, it's been wandering on me a bit...i.e. when I turn, it takes a second for the wheels to follow. and it pops when I turn. OK, no biggy. replace trackbar. no change. finally someone turns the wheels for me while I'm under it. SH*T. the frame is busted where the trackbar mount meets it on the inside...cracked all the way round the lower 2 bolts, and the mount itself is cracked right below the upper bolts. :headpop: :eek: :mad: :hmm: so now I've got to fix the issue. I did get the driver's side ujoint done, and the pass side done...then I realized my passenger side inner shaft is missing the needle bearing that fits onto the inner shaft. the cage was there...the rest is not. so gotta get that tomorrow, and weld up the frame tomorrow or monday. at least I have the cherokee to drive...

:D good stuff right there, I don't care who you are ;) thanks! hopefully cole can get his fixed a.s.a.p. I can't fix mine until stuff is settled with the other person's insurance...just in case they need to look at it ya kno? I hope I get it all settled here before the salts laid down...it's already rusting where the paint chipped off, and honestly I do not want to have more rust on that truck.

with good sensors (within spec) elsewhere, you're left with the 02 sensor causing the rich fuel mixture most likely. or a faulty PCM...

I'd buy that for a dollar... j/k, it's worth their price. they should build that truck!

running lights. OK. no offense but you guys are making it too technical. you need support for the style of light you choose (fuses, relays, correct gage wiring) then either run the power for the relay to the ignition for an always on when running, a switch so you control it, or just tie it into your running markers on the headlamp switch. to be honest, you NEED relay(s), wire, lights, and the decision to put them where you want them (and have them not leak). that's really ALL that is required with running lights. it is really not technical at all.

:P 10-4. there's a kink on the first body line as well...so that will require some real body work to be done

I'm very sorry for your loss, and yes, this is a sick world. when you can't drive safely for fear of someone hitting you, then them being mad at you and you haveing to worry about your personal safety.

SWEET IDEA JOE! I'm gonna do that this week!

lookin real good!

if you want a hardcore pickup then why are you so set up on the gladiator concept? I'm taken to understand that a real truck also has a tough frame that's built to support the rest of the vehicle, rather than just scrambled together from spare TJ platforms.

Renault 2.1 Turbo Diesel available in the states from 1986-1987 but was classified as export only...still, some were allowed to slip through the cracks. available in turbo and non-turbo, non-turbo mainly sporting the auto trans. tranny options were 2wd and 4wd, with an ax5 or an ax4. the bellhousing is different, and the input shafts are Renault-specific. cylinder count is from the firewall forward, rather than the other way around (firewall is one, front is 4). they're an aluminum block with cast sleeves (removable). mechanical fuel pump, so the operating system is fairly easy to use. starters tend to go bad on them. my dad drives one daily and he keeps a backup as he's had them go out 4 times now. just rebuild the spare, keep it for a rainy day.