JeepcoMJ

well, apart from needing black trim installed on all 4 doors (it's "oops I f*d up the wax job" white...from the PO), it's basically done. last couple things are to replace the window motor and clean the lock actuator connections in the rear dr/side door, put a headliner in it, put TNT's roof rack on it, and I think she's pretty much done. oh! and install the sub and amp of course :D

auto to manual swap is easy enough you'd need ax5 + shifter 4wd shift linkage for ax5 (if you have 4wd) flywheel for manual trans. pilot bushing clutch master and slave cylinder pedal assembly (bolt in) and there may be a minor difference in d.s. lengths but that I do not know. you'd just swap all those parts on accordingly, and no longer use/need any of the auto stuff (auto shifter and cover plate, cable, trans., flexplate, pedal assembly, computer...if it's computer controlled) and you may have to splice a few wires for the sensors on the tranny, but probably will be the same. a weekend's of work.

your auto is incomparable to the manual anyways. if you had an aw4 it would be a different story, but the manual ax5 will be better regardless than your auto...you don't have to worry about trans blowing from overheating.

I found a GREAT deal on a set of 33x11.50R17 MT/R's that would work well with my brother's rubicon rims...so he's gonna have to check them out. found a few deals on P245/70/R15's but idk if they're good enough. and I don't want 31" anyways...I can't lift the xj right now.

cool. I don't care about noise...I won't ever get fast enough for it to be a problem (it's a 2.5, come on :oops: ) ideas on cost? I can't seem to find any specifics?

I'm thinking of getting new tires for my cherokee. reason being that the 235/17/r15 Apaches that I have have dry rot, and the bfg mud terrains are just junk tread-wise. so I'm in need of new tires for it. here's what I need 29x9.5 or 10.5 . they have to be good year-round, and mild off-road use. what is a good suggestion, where should I look, and what prices should I expect. I was thinking bfg radial all terrains, I like the aggressive stance and tread they offer, with the reliability factor. this xj is a DD right now (or will be) and will be used mildly offroad. there is no lift, and I don't intend to do one in the near future (think in half year segments...) as the rest of my money will be devoted to school and getting the 3800 ship-shape again. it sees mostly road use, I'm in wisconsin and snow/ice is prevalent (used to be anyways...), and they do salt here. I commute 45 min. each way every weekday. any suggestions? low cost and high quality are the desireds here

NO! it's fairly easy. and that 3 speed auto is a piece of underpowered $#!&.

my longbed has a factory 15 gallon.

registered the xj today, drove her around, I'm happy with her. all that's left is to do a final bleed on the clutch, swap out some power window motors, and chrome power mirrors, stereo system, one lock actuator, and gotta swap the front t-case yoke so I can get rid of the cv driveshaft and put in a ujoint style one and a headliner... and newer roof rack etc. but man, she's turned out nice. I don't doubt that I'll end up blasting the few bad surface rust spots, cleanin them up, spraying from mid-door down in new black (gloss) then putting woddy paneling on her with the waggy grille...just cause I like it :D some pics outside...

gas tanks aren't even similar so no

the console is direct swap, an overhead console needs altered to fit. other than that, basically anything from the seats forward is the same if it's a 4 door

bore it to the cutout size of one of them big hole saws (the circle hole bit that you put on a drill), and cut that size out of a sheet of whatever steel/copper etc. you wanna use. sand the ends, and taper them a bit, smooth it down, then do the final shaping to make it identical to the one that you have, just a fraction larger.

so how has the trailer turned out?

is it 4wd? if 4wd, you won't get it pulled back enough because the tranny tunnel is in the way. if 2wd, you'll still be lucky if you do. 2 bolts on the crossmember. which ones, and which side? they've gotta come off so you can actually see what's going on.

I'm EXCITED! :brows:

and I know who is buying them.

ACTUALLY I'm glad that I know this :D IF you have an auto (if you do, please, PLEASE swap to stick) you should concentrate on getting a 3.4 automatic engine, because then all you may have to do is get the torque converter bolts professionally redrilled. if you have a 5 speed stick in your jeep (or 4 speed), then concentrate on getting a 3.4 out of a 5 speed camaro or firebird. then you just bolt the jeep flexplate and clutch in, along with the jeep pilot bushing. be sure to measure the thickness of the flywheel and compare them...if it's thicker, you will need to shave some of the back of your throwout bearing plate down to allow for the throwout bearing to disengage completely (had to do that with the 3800 swap, as the flywheel was 3/8" thicker). I would most definitely avoid complicating things by putting the jeep flywheel/flexplate on the 3.4, if you can avoid it. if not, any competent machine shop can do the neutral balancing, but do not let them machine the clutch surface to a smooth surface, just a light sanding will do. if they machine that, your clutch will wear faster considering that the flywheel was originally machined a bit concave. gas mileage wise, you can expect between 15-19 normally, and highway should be around 21. with gear set up properly, you'll go higher (or lower) depending on what you want. here's some links on it. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Pro ... ect_XJ.htm http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/article/a ... ?id=277008 and you will need this from bakerelectronics http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7erz1/id1.html it is a VATS bypass (Vehicle Anti-Theft System) that you will wire into pin 55 of the engine computer (dark blue wire). it simulates the VATS system electronic key which sends a OK GO signal to ground the injectors...so it will run for more than 3 seconds :D (you need this if you go with the camaro injection. I will GIVE you the knowledge you need to wire the motor up if you ask.)

sweet :D

statements like that make me glad I had someone to show me how it's done...I can have engines out, and swapped, in 2 days (less if they're just bolt-in), and a tranny didn't take me but 5 hours (with all the crap I had to do to get it out then in) to get out and in a truck... :D

:P I want that bumper. we'll work it out. but it won't go on until AFTER the xj has an engine upgrade. it's a 2.5 now, and will already be a dog without that extra weight. I'm thinking same thing goes for the lift...but I DO have the 31x10.50's off the 3800 available...methinks the 3800 will come out of the barn with some 33x12.50's on for show....along with one o them lifts (hey tim, wanna sell me a RC 6.5" lift with home-altered control arms?)

if you swap it, I highly suggest going with the 3.4 as it is an identical block, except it doesn't use a mechanical fuel pump so you'll have to get an electric fuel pump. then, you swap the oil pan, exhaust manifolds onto the 3.4 from the 2.8, so you can use the same exhaust that's on your truck now. the camaro wiring is easy....you just have to pull out the unnecessary wiring (lights, heaterbox, etc.) and lay it in as a second harness. remember that point...you are not replacing the jeep wiring harness, just running 2 at a time. by doing that, you now have a engine that operates off a seperate system than your 2.8. the engine computer is located in the righthand side of the engine compartment against the rear firewall, so that doesn't even have to go inside. if you do the 3.4 swap, ther is little to NO point in going back to the 2.8 intake system, as it sucks gas, and good carbs are hard to find, unless you buy the edelbrock 4bbl intake and a holley 4bbl 390cfm carb. that's $500 there, and in the end, you still have carbs.

...according to his first post, he didn't take the crossmember out. that says it all.

the firewall changed to the 4.0 firewall in late 86 the early firewall is pretty much the same, just requires a bit of beating with a hammer on the lower right side, and lower left side, around the bellhousing area. so that won't be a problem. don't put a 258 in, they're crap. use a 258 crank in a 4.0 to get a 4.5 stroker tho!!!! and a 3.4 swap wouldn't be all that hard, I can get the wiring diagrams necessary for you to get it to run. I put a camaro 3800 motor in my 86 2.8 comanche, which is just 1 step higher, and also 1 step harder.

sweet thanks! still looks like it will cost $100 or so, before shipping... hmm

...don't even attempt this without the truck as a reference, it's not something you want to screw up just get it under there, set it to within 2 degrees positive (twists under accel), and tac weld it in. then take it in and weld it up