JeepcoMJ

if you know what you're doing you don't need specialty tools. I actually don't know anyone who uses a puller for them anymore (to my knowledge). hammer and cro-bar. place the cro-bar between the trackbar and the trackbar mount, after unscrewing the TRE's nut of course, then take the hammer and hit the side (inner side right on the end where the trackbar TRE goes through) of the trackbar mount hard a few times. should fall right out within 5 hits or so. use this technique on any tie rod end.

that's almost EXACTLY what I'm planning on.

to interject, for clarification, swapping the output shaft (tail shaft) over to a 4wd shaft, involves a complete disassembly of the trans and gear assembly, and at that point you may as well rebuild the tranny while you're at it. and at that point, you may as well have bought a tranny that already worked and was what you needed.

you do know that you have to remove the door panel to properly remove that piece right? it has a screw holding it in on the bottom.

your point? it's a jeep. you'd swamp the motor if you did that.

BUT it's an easier project. I payed $350 for the complete camaro I got my engine out of, and I KNOW it was beat :roll: the benefit to these cars is that, even in a case like this one, the engine is so far back from the front of the car that it really doesn't get damaged. I know the p.o. and the story on what happened too...not a doubt in my mind that it was beat on, but it's turned out just fine. and while I could have done a 4.0 swap, frankly I don't WANT a 4.0. no offense, but I did find a better motor than the 4.0 that has alot more (and cheaper) upgrades...(bolt-on supercharger kit, etc etc that's no more than $600 as opposed to $4k). although I did go with a 3.8 over the 3.4, the 3.4 is still a good motor and an easier swap. that all said, I don't think one should cost more than $300 max with all the wiring. if it does, you payed too much.

Was there spose to be a link somewhere in that? yes. here http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... t=steering

I did finally get the entire interior done, including dash swap and headliner/backing board. just need black seat belts...

read this as well, just in case yours is 5 speed and the xj is auto or vice-versa. also, pay CLOSE attention to the removal/install instructions. they're done that way to make it easier for you and you won't have to readjust your steering most likely.

the problem is, and as I've said, that I'm operating a v6 with the same output pulses as a 2.8, and a 2.8 gauge cluster and tachometer. with my 2.8, I couldn't operate ANY 4.0 gauge clusters, and certainly not with the 3.8. because of this, I doubt that the interchange is possible or accurate if done.

ignition control? ballast resistor? (you should still have one)

those rims are identical to mine, except a bit bigger center hole. I really wish I could find more of them...

it would do somewhat of the trick. problem is you don't have anything solid or "concrete" to mount to there...you'd need to tube it in. hmm. start a tech thread about it, maybe get some pics if you want I can post them up for you, and get everyone's opinion on this. were it me, I'd build bracing along the floor and up the back wall, but you want a soft top...you really need a cage to support it anyways so, maybe it's worth it for you to just pay $500 or so for a cage to be made?. either way, this is a thread jack sorry about it and like I said, new post in tech forums and people will probably have alot more opinions on it than here.

I though 3.4's were in Luminias and Grand-prix not camaros. Camaros had 3.8's right? no, 91-94 camaro and firebird had 3.4. you can't use a FWD one in his application without heavy mods.

a half ton j4k is 44/44 combo, 3/4 ton is 44/60 combo. closed knuckle I believe on the 44/44 but not sure about the 3/4 ton combo. mine's a half ton

I'm concerned that it only has one rear-going bar (by looking at the pics) and no mount for a bolt-on second one...

at the very most, you hvae a 94 longblock running renix systems. 3 bolts is renix.

rough country 3" lift, 31x10.50 dayton timberline A/T that was after it was painted I get rub when I bottom out HARD, my rears don't rub at all. turning I see/feel very minimal rubs even at flex. now, control arms hitting motor mounts...different story (yeah, oops.)

as previously stated, they do have an adjustment on the back of the tachometer. you have to remove it from the cluster. it's interesting, there are supposed to be different pulses/frequencies/whatever based on the number of cylinders. I'm not sure how it's set up, but I've had my luck dropping 4 cyl gauges into my 6 cyl truck and it worked great. can't get 4.0 gauges to work with it though.

I agree on price. and I don't think that's the original paint job. never seen a j4k with a single tone paint job. also, j4k are ALL 4wd in my experience. or should be. if not, something's up. check it out if it's as straight as it looks it's worth $2500, but not much, if any more.

oh, i'm not using it for off-road use, it's a two wheel drive fourbanger. i am actually looking for a rollbar, if you know anyone who has one that might fit. i've got the vinyl for a soft top. i'm checking out the junkyard as soon as i get a day off but i don't have much hope. i'd like to get a rollbar asap because if i roll it i'm toast. no fun there. then I'm even more worried that you're actually considering driving it without reinforcing it in some way. it literally is 70% or more compromised integrity with the top gone. that's just plain dangerous, the 2 frame rails on it are only sheetmetal, they are not a frame in any way, shape, or form. unibody means unibody, hopefully you come up with a good way to reinforce it because it's now become a driving death trap should you ever get in an accident. pics please?

Thanks! it is absolutely too dark, but I love it. the general consensus is the blue interior was alot nicer in my truck, even I feel that way. BUT no one else has a black interior really, and I guess it keeps the black and white feel of the truck, so it's alot better this way. if that makes any sense. and, it smells like resin now :roll: but the smell will pass...eventually.

you probably got the newer ones, which still fit but are thinner. can't run them without newer shafts unfortunately. maybe also do your ujoints before you install the unit bearing.. :roll:

what carb are you running? you'll be getting a 3.4 that will NOT be carbeurated. it's best that you grab the harness and computer, and that I give you step-by-step on how to wire it. if you're hell bent on carbeurating it, do NOT use the factory carb from your 2.8. it completely defeats the purpose of the swap. go out and buy an edelbrock 4bbl intake and a holley 390cfm 4bbl carb. at that point you may as well cam the engine, you're gonna have to put all the 2.8 accessories on and switch to the v-belt system from the 2.8, and you've probably wasted a bunch of time for a minimal gain. main reason guys like this swap is that it's easy even to fuel inject, and basically bolt-in. if you're having doubts about your wiring skills, don't. I never did wiring before my swap and it only took me 10 hours and a few mixups to get it done. if you want, I could let you use my alldatapro for your swap which will give you any wiring harness you could possibly need (and any tech on any vehicle made).

why are you changing the rear? gears I assume. you probably won't get the perches off in one piece, but if you can, go ahead and reuse them. when you put the axle in the manche, you also should realize that the perches will not be in the same opposite spot as the xj perches; an mj rear springs are wider. you'll want to have the mj shaft shortened, it's cheaper than to have the xj shaft retubed (lengthened). you will need your carpet and seats out to do this as well, you have to put the pivot point for your 4x4 shifter assembly in which requires 4 bolts. in a couple weeks, geonovast and I are swapping his 4wd tranny in and doing all of this (though with a 5 speed 4wd 4 cylinder) except he's already finished the axle swap.