JeepcoMJ

wow. that's not a great christmas gift. um, not typical, but I'm sure it does happen.

very fixable truck. too bad about the xj, are ya dropping the v8 in the mj? and, are you interested in selling the swingout carrier and mounts from the xj? I've been looking for one...

post things like that in a new thread if ya could ;) 4.0 problems include leaky rear main, bad valve cover gasket, leaky o-ring at the oil filter adapter, bad 02 sensors, exhaust manifold cracks, and sometimes overheating from a bad seal on the closed cooling system (bad "reservoir") as well as bad thermostats. but that's about it. they're hard to kill.

If you put a 4.0L tach into a 2.5L vehicle, the tach isn't reading correctly. Not unless you adjusted the potentiometer to correct for the number of cylinders. The tach will give a reading, it just won't be anything close to the actual engine RPM. Lemme rethink how this all works: Okay, for a 6-cylinder engine, three ignition pulses is one revolution of the crankshaft (which is what we want to measure -- engine revolutions per minute). So 3000 pulses equals 1000 RPM. For a 4-cylinder, 3 pulses equals 1-1/2 crankshaft revolutions. So 3000 pulses equals 1000 x 1.5 = 1500 RPM. If you have a 6-cyl tach in a 4-cyl vehicle, the engine is turning 50 percent faster than what the tach is telling you. I found that older 4 cylinder gauges work just fine with the old 2.8, and the tach is dead on. it even works with my 3800 camaro motor. correy has a 91, which is not a renix system, with full injectors. he's running a cherokee 4.0 HO cluster..and when I was up there it seemed right on. the 4 cyl is, after all, the same as a 4.0 for the most part, just 2 less cylinders.

I thought they switched midyear in 89? My 89 was built in June 1989 (per the sticker on the Driver door) and has the AX15... mid-89 is the change. my 89 was an early 89 with ba10/5 but, alot more early 89's seem to have been made than late 89's

completely forgot that I had all of these, but was searching for my calvin and hobbes collection and came across them I forgot I'd had that many. anyone else collect these old pickups? tonka made

89 was mostly ba10/5, 90 will be ax15 unless some freak incident occured at the factory. 2wd or 4wd?

nic score, and yes, this is my second pair of georgia's and the first pair lasted me 5 years..I grew out of them and have been bootless for a year or so. now that problem is fixed :D

thanks! I'm very happy with it, and you make me proud of my work.

more pics. 'nother one of the back wall all interior lights on, no flash, and no lights shining in overhead lights kick panel and MAP lights here you can kinda see the blue ash tray light too here's all my exterior lighting turned on as well useless pictures...and now you can safely say that I'm overkill on lighting.

new georgia boot steel toe boots, a tool shop 5 gallon portable air tank, nice stanley coffee thermos, and half my front tow hook brackets payed for ($50 from my grandpa...it's going towards those), as well as a couple gift cards.

does anyone have a picture? I'm going to see about this on one of my tachometers, I'd like to upgrade my gauge faces to the newer style.

you'd be better off making your own IMO. cutting the one outta the xj won't be so bad, but you'll have to make adjustments to it as the incline in an MJ floor is different. project's comin along, keep it up! (and why not swap the doors and hood off the 99xj onto the mj?)

alright here's today's accomplishments mounted my amp and cd changer to the back piece installed headliner, OHC, and mirrors. it was a PITA I had to lay on my back on the seats and use my feet to hold it up while screwing in the sunvisors enough that I could concentrate on the back. they get heavy with the fiberglass... MAP lights work rear panel, B-pillar trim, rear trim installed vanity mirror wired storage. you can see the blank on the front, I'll be putting a boost gauge and exhaust temp. gauge there when I swap to a supercharged 3.8. if that never happens, OBA controls will go up top in that spot. umm...wierd pic lol mounted my mag-lite on the rear left panel too. trust me, if that was an OEM black panel I never woulda done it... ...and the dash. the woodgrain trim is the only thing I've done to try and lighten up the interior. I also replaced my oil pressure sending unit, since my gauge was reading high, but I guess I didn't need to. I must have a short in the wire, OR my engine is about to blow :nuts: . I also cleaned the MAP sensor. it got a bunch of oil from the K&N on it since I installed it, and so the truck wasn't idling correctly. need to clean the filter as well. but, the interior is 99% done now. just need to put in black seat belts.

$250 or more in packer territory (damn rust belt)

if that's the case I'd be putting a newer 4.0 gauge cluster in my MJ. I really wanna do that and put my xj white face neon gauges in it (bought them for my 89 pioneer...arrived after TNT got them, and I'm trying hard not to let my bro have them)

This is totally my point. I'm a tax payer, and if you don't let them drive and wreck and kill a few people at a young age, they are never going to learn to be better in the future. Furthermore, if you don't let them drive, then it becomes the burdon of society and tax payers to pay to transport them. It is the risk that each one of us takes when we get behind the wheel. I'm willing to take that risk everyday rather than pay higher taxes to provide transportation for these people. I'm also the guy that is willing to take the risk that I might die in a terrorist attack, or might have to pay more for gasoline, instead sending troops into a situation that probably has no affect on anything that happens here in America. It would have been better in my opinion to let something like september 11th happen every ten years than to lose a few thousand good soldiers fighting people who don't care one bit about us. I'm also the guy that would take the risk to stop a mall shooter, or a plane hijacker if I was ever in that situation. Keep telling your selves that we need to teach young a lesson by not letting them try things and fail. Failure is the greatest way to learn how to be successful. Just don't attempt failure with my money. so...you're a retard? that's what I read in your "that guy" section. what crap. it's not even on the topic. OUR SOLDIERS FIGHT FOR WHAT THEY BELIEVE IN, THEY KNOW WHAT THEY SIGNED UP FOR, AND THEY'RE DAMNED PROUD OF IT. HOORAH! if you think that some innocent people should die vs. a soldier die, you need to go see a psychologist so they can fix whatever problem is causing your headcase issues. this isn't personal mind you, I don't dislike you in any way, but your thought process is, to say the least, negligable. that being said, failure IS the safest way to learn. however, NOT at the cost of an innocent person's life. that's not how it works, and people don't always learn from other people's examples. these laws are here to PREVENT them from having any sort of accident like that. if they're not put in a situation that could cause such an accident at the beginning of their driving years, they gain experience so that they're wise enough NOT to do it when they have the PRIVELAGE of having more passengers.

just spent 45 min. fixing my first post...some of the links had gone bad. now all my photos work.

on the 3800 my right rear fender had rust from about the rear upper corner of the flare forward, and my front left fender was toast (backed into), so I used the front wheel well for that. they're close from about the front upper corner on back of the front flare (it matches the opposite rear flare from that corner forward). you won't be able to do your whole flare with one, the wheel wells are different enough. I did find out after the fact that the shop did not replace the lower portion seen in the second pic...it is bondo'd. I specifically said absolutely NO bond was to be used, not even as a smoothing compound (wisconsin + bondo + more effing rust)...$1800 gone to waste. anyways, that's the DL on using the fender. a 2wd rear skin is better. check 89eliminator's truck out for that repair.

;) I know where one is.

yes, it's easy. you'd need a complete "full gauge" cluster from same year truck, and the "gauge-equipped" temperature and oil pressure sending units. all told it might cost you $100. the facotry oil pressure sending unit is $19 at bumper to bumper, and the temp. sending unit is $13. a gauge cluster would be at cost of whatever is on the club here plus shipping. you have to use one from an 86 MJ with a 2.8 v6, or an 86-87 MJ with a 2.5 4 cylinder. those are the only two gauge units that will work in my experience. 4.0 clusters don't work.

you'll see my factory rear hitch in that link. I can make you a template of the end mounts and send it to you for $5, then all you'd need to do is cut the steel and weld up a hitch.

I sure hope you've got a rollcage, or have replaced the cut off section of cab. if not, you've lost about 70% structural integrity, and it WILL NOT hold up to offroad abuse. it is a unibody vehicle.

:D only when I wasn't at work. too windy to torch outside today your cab is almost ready to be indefinitely seperated from it's better..pieces... so this week, after x-mas, you'll have it. I'd say by thursday or so you'll have it.

I completely finished the headliner today. note I started at 11, went til 2:30, came back at 7:15 after work, and finished this all by 10:15 started with fiberglassing the back of it... just the center as that's weight bearing here you can see the reinforcements for the rear mounts for the OHC, and the aluminum plate that I fiberglassed in so that I can screw into it from the OHC then moved onto the sunvisors while it dried. they're not easy, they break apart like a clamshell and have little "teeth" that hold the fabric in, instead of gluing it in. so, you have to manage to move it together and push both sides of cloth in at one time. PITA but worth it here's a new one and compared to the old one. you can see the passenger side one stripped in the backround both of them pass. side I had to paint the mirror mechanism, which required disassembly. Tecnique semi-gloss black vinyl dye/spray was used both done and OHC painted and complete sprayed the adhesive (3M super strength or something like that), waited 5 min, and applied the headliner fabric then, while waiting the min. hour and a half for it to dry I got my maroon rear panel out, pulled the cloth off of it (which is in good shape if anyone wants it), and got it set up for black I used black headliner fabric instead of carpet fabric... sprayed flipped, black on done here's the rear piece, sunvisors, and OHC all complete then flipped headliner and glued fabric over sides after I glued it all, I also used a scrap section of headliner fabric and glued it down the middle of the top of the headliner like so; that will keep the roof and fiberglassed headliner from contacting and vibrating at higher speeds. then wired the pass. mirrored sunvisor to work as well as the OHC lights aaand here's the headliner, OHC, and sunvisors complete I'm happy with it, although I feel I got a little sloppy with the top of the headliner. it looks great, and the few small blemishes will be covered by the trim pieces. installing it tomorrow. still need black seat belts, but now everything else is done :D