JeepcoMJ

It actually turned out to be in with the power/comfort switch. lol. then it moved. mine have all been tied up behind the gauge cluster...and i mean all of them

:D so 75,000 miles on my truck makes it worth $12,500? :roll: :cheers: :D

are you sure this is the issue? are gasses present? I had a similar issue...and am running a 15 lb cap with no issues.

everything connected? did you get oil in/on the cap/rotor? how're the spark plugs?

nope. it's to remove the door handles...they're bolted in from behind. to install the lock clips, you have to reach inside the door anyways.

Was that plug factory?? Thats a way to paintlessly remove dents/. They drill a hold in the side of the door, and then they insert a long tool and pop dents out. yes, it's a plug in the framework next to the latch on the door. it is factory.

i don't think that i will need the spacer. we'll see...worse that could happen is i just replace the old one with another stocker.

as stated in the pm...it is behind the gauge cluster.

I have one of these fenders on the driver's side of my truck...not sure it's from that guy or not. it fits, and lines up pretty well. my only issue was where it meets the A-pillar didn't match up perfectly. I had to bend it a bit to fit right, but nothing too big of a deal.

hole locations aren't different are they? if this is going to be a project in itself, then i'm not doing it...i'll just swap my failing booster for a good one. I want to do my lift, axle swap, and this all at one time...because the brakes will already need bleeding with the new hoses...and i HATE bleeding ANYTHING. no, no spacer. no need. worse come to worse, i will cut the push rod and reweld it.

Didn't have a Cheese Wheel handy? ate it on the way over.

sorry to hear it...hopefully insurance will cover it, and you'll have nicely ended up with some moabs out of the deal :D

not when you got a 2001 one for "free" traded an amp for it (car stero amp, not the drink) the amp cost me $50 not bad IMHO

:D :roll: :cheers:

got this all in a trade for some parts awhile back...going to put it in the 3800. I've kinda ignored the tech on it so far, basically i need to know if it will just bolt in, or am I gonna have to swap out push rods and stuff? ...i want to do this when i do my regear and lift. better to do everything once (I hate bleeding brakes) than twice or more.

front and rear gears need to match if you're going to 4wd.

no, the motor mounts can stay just as long as they're still poly bushings. you may go through motor mounts though with the angle being off a bit. if you put poly mounts in, it would be wise to lift the mounts 1" or so.

:D glad i'm in. i will be there ;) EDIT: 4,284th post :P

no, a 4.0 won't work as parts yes, you can convert it. I may have all of the parts to do this. it's actually the same bellhousing...you just need the throwout plate, throwout bearing, throwout plate pivot, studs for the slave cylinder, and slave spacer. also the front cover for the front bearings needs to be changed out to one with the one for the throwout bearing to slide. I could put together a kit for it probably...

ok. i've got the go-ahead :P

well i'm thinking of going to a supercharged buick 3800 now...but, that will compound my transmission issues. so... my options are an AW4 with a 2.5 aw4 torque converter and bellhousing and a complete manual shift system, or an ax15 with a 4 cylinder dodge dakota ax15 bellhousing and ax15. i've just found a supercharged buick with a 3800 that's RWD today for $300...blown auto tranny and all brakes blown, but 120,000 and the car looks almost new. just ran tranny all 120k with little maintenance. I'm thinking of picking that up, and going aw4 with shift kit...7 or 8 position shifter to control the cable with positions P,R,N,D then it would have electric positions 1,2,3,O. I could incorporate that all into one shifter handle and have it be a traditional shift pattern with 8 slots. I suppose i could make the D be D1, then D2, D3, and D-O and have a 7 slot shifter...

thread jack :roll: sorry my options are an AW4 with a 2.5 aw4 torque converter and bellhousing and a complete manual shift system, or an ax15 with a 4 cylinder dodge dakota ax15 bellhousing and ax15. i've just found a supercharged buick with a 3800 that's RWD today for $300...blown auto tranny and all brakes blown, but 120,000 and the car looks almost new. just ran tranny all 120k with little maintenance. I'm thinking of picking that up, and going aw4 with shift kit...7 or 8 position shifter to control the cable with positions P,R,N,D then it would have electric positions 1,2,3,O. I could incorporate that all into one shifter handle and have it be a traditional shift pattern with 8 slots.

Must be an awesome rig.............. :cheers: lol. not when i'm on my 3rd transmission on that motor... :roll: the point was that he's got less chance of having as bad of issues as me, BUT they do compound, and poor maintenance isn't going to make your tranny thank you. :cheers:

i just got done with this problem. you need either a master or slave cylinder. i got both, external slave and master, for $80 and they are metal. but, i got them at cost. both of mine leaked a bit. end result; sheared input to cross shaft gear off of the input shaft, ruined the cross shaft, and got stranded 4 hours from home overnight. i rebuilt another tranny for it, and replaced everything. get it fixed A.S.A.P. or you may have issues. you have nowhere near the hp i do, but the same tranny.

take out the driveshaft, tape a bottle over the output housing of the tranny, or even just tape a spare yoke in the rear rent the car dolly, and do that. i would NOT tow anything that far with the driveshaft for the wheels that are on the ground, in the vehicle. very unsafe.