JeepcoMJ

i suppose... Image Not Found Image Not Found parking in the field at jefferson was fun :D

picked up a new, matching fullsize spare at the jefferson swap meet (31x10.50 Dayton Timberline A/T) for $40. sadly...the tires won't even be on the truck that much longer...because... my 6.5" lift is sitting in the passenger side inside of the truck. all I'm missing is the RC adjustable UCA's, YJ brake lines for up front, Dakota rear brake line, and proper shocks for the rear. so, another update to come in the next few weeks...

You beat me to it. :D we already know about that. we're talking about the custom shifter here...I'm just too lazy to build EVERYTHING else on my own...

great, steal my thunder :P i've been planning this exact thing for what, 3 months? and now you go and steal my idea... big jerk :P

he's not explaining it all that well. basically, he has to shift between P,R,N,and D then, he can control 1st,2nd,3rd, and Overdrive. so, he wants two shifters...one that will operate as normal, and only shift from P to D, removing the 3rd gear selection and 1-2 selection. this will be a "hidden" shifter under the center console lid or something along those lines. then, take a manual shifter and give it a guide system so you get the |_| | | pattern. this would be in the stock location, and as he and i discussed, you'd use an automatic shifter handle and install a switch in it so that the button is actually the torque converter lockup. I'd just leave the shifter in the stock location, but alter it so you can't acces 1-2 or 3, and then so you can slap-stick it to the right for upshift, and left for downshift. use 4 LED's in the dash as indicator's for what gear you are in, with a 5th LED in a different color for torque converter lockup.

not really. your test was the fact that it don't work. if the master isn't leaking IN the cab, or next to it under the hood, then check the line. if that's not it, it's your slave, or both. I'd just replace it.

personally, part numbers are great. but, if your store can't search a part by description, they don't deserve your business. i NEVER tell them the part numbers, even if i know them. way I figure it, they either know, or they lose my business. it's not my fault they don't know how to run their catalog system/pc search and find it, and I WILL make it a point to bring this to the store manager's attention (somehow, i know quite a bit more about cars than most of the guys at the local parts stores, and they still won't hire me, so you bet your @$$ i'm gonna make them work) so...just pointing out, they're not doing their jobs correctly if they're not helping the customer (you're always right, remember that)

i have all these parts btw.

relief valve, or oil pump. my question is, why didn't you replace the oil pump and sender? rods have about oh, .02% to do with oil pressure compared to the pump and sender.

haha. just drive like you've participated in the special olympics, and they'll get out of your way ;)

the column shifters were options in xj's and mj's.

there are quite a few threads on this, but to humour you. comanches and cherokees share EVERYTHING from the front seats forward. the only difference is the lower control arm mounts are heavier duty on a comanche, and the wire harness is a bit different from the seats on back.

at roughly twice the price of the single injector, with two intakes and two sets of injectors, ya can't go wrong lol. well, as long as you have time to swap everything

talk to me. i have a complete MPFI system...

eh. my dad daily drives a renault 2.1 comanche. it's a pretty reliable vehicle most of the time. the only bad factor is replacing the starter...which goes bad often. other than that, it's not a big problem. he's gotten up to 35mpg with it, and it's 4wd with 5 speed, 4.10 gears, and AMC20 rear.

2.1 litre Renault diesel, or Turbo Diesel.

at least that if i had the $$$

nice, wade well Joe, get better soon. you've only got a couple weeks before the wi4x4 meet and greet :D

here ya go pal :D how goes it at the doc?

complete with interior harness...no need for swapping pins out.

pfft. naw, i just decided using the plasma cutter with sunglasses was a good idea. (actually, it wasn't that bad. i don't have sunglasses burned onto my face...and no spots in my eyes lol)

well, I'm working on TNT's old xj body...which was stripped to donate parts to my old 89 pioneer which he bought. the body went to Alex at Scorpion Automotive from wi4x4.com because he can't keep from crushing his xj body... :roll: if you check out the link, you can also check out the other xj i'm building for him with my brother. we do the body, he handles the mechanical end of it. thanks to TNT for his guidance on wheel well cutting. i wanted people to see this because it's easy to grasp what to do. the same cut-then fold technique can be used on MJ rear flares provided your inner wheel well is still good. I'll explain later when i'm not drained and tired (and when my face doesn't hurt from plasma cutter sunburn :oops: -Pat

what kind of moisture? black, or white? moisture in general is acceptable...i put out ALOT of moisture with my truck. the emissions station will only put my truck on the rollers for around half a minute before they pass it out since it's sooo far below 1986 emission standards (haven't declared that it has a new motor, and don't intend to)...most of my exhaust IS water vapor, as it should be. as stated, have a leak-down test done.

records???? ....i don't remember which fuses in my aux fuse boxes do what lol. the wiring connectors are custom, and i don't recall what is what, which really isn't a huge problem anyways. the in-line fuel pump is off of a late 80's ford v8 truck with MPFI because i didn't want to buy a 4.0 tank and fuel pump...although now i have a H.O. fuel pump and a 2.5 fuel pump that i can combine to make a good one to drop in my "new" tank...that will make some things easier, and alot quieter. my clutch system is all custom-built due to flywheel thickness differences, motor mounts are camaro, radiator is 4.0, intake tubes are off of some other 3800's and are cut and modified, I can't fit any sort of factory air box in the thing, got a MOROSO in-line filler neck for the radiator, rad. hoses are from IDK what (new, but i just grabbed what would fit), vacuum hoses are pretty much custom-done and so are my temp. and oil pressure sending units. all in a day's work. :D so, does the 3.4 have a head gasket leak?

it's worth it to bypass the $#!&ty 2.8