JeepcoMJ

the bolt is somewhere between 6mm and 8mm, and is DEAD CENTER on the C100 on the engine side of things. with the fuse block disconnected, you can angle the connector upwards to see between the wiring, and get a socket with extension on a 1/4" drive ratchet in there. take it out (its extremely fine thread so it takes awhile) and pop the shtuff out.

I'm either going air or electric at least in the front axle...probably same for the rear. but that's with OBA and plenty of stored air.

xj front bumpers work on comanches. you would need to modify the fenders up front to accept the bumpercaps from the 99 front bumper. the rear bumpers do not interchange, and would require a bit of fab skills to make an xj bumper of any sort work on the rear.

race cars

aluminum, and definitely junkyards. you are looking for a 4 cylinder valve cover from a 91 or newer jeep.

The 242 does not have a viscous coupling, it mas a mechanical differential. JT, "CommandTrac" is the 231, "SelecTrac" is the 242. My bad, I'd been told it was a coupling. the coupling is in the np229 or np228 case from the 86 and prior cherokees and some comanches. this is part of a system called "selec-trac" as for the location of the differentialin the NP242.. it is located on the output shaft. I just rebuilt an NP242 for a friend of mine. the chain cost was around $80, the new oil filter was $8. the filter should be the same between cases and the chain should be similarly priced, if not the same part. as for taking it apart, here's the short of it; remove front driveshaft yoke (not sure if this is necessary, but it did make my project easier, plus allowed me to inspect the bearings) remove rear output housing. remove snap-ring on output shaft remove speedo gear/cable remove secondary output housing. remove rear case housing (main cap on back of case). there are just bolts here. the oil pump will come off with it, so be careful...the pickup tube and filter may want to stick in the forward section, but need to come out with the rear case to avoid damaging the O-ring at the filter from there, if you pop the front output shaft out, and loosen the rear output shaft (pull back a bit), the chain should pop right off. you should take the output shaft out and clean it (parts washer or brake cleaner) as well as clean the case out, and pull the magnet out of the bottom and clean it until it has zero shavings on it (the magnet is located directly below the front output shaft. this can all be done with the case in the jeep, but I suggest doing it with the case out of the jeep so that you don't spend as much time on your back.

agreed. i kinda had one fall into my lap (hard to pass up a complete case with SYE for $250) and so I installed it...it cost me MORE money than running the other one, BUT i only have 1500 into a pretty much rust-free 4.0 auto shortbed with 6.5" of lift, and half the parts are new... play your budget and find out what you're capable of, and build within your budget. if the SYE is in your budget, I would probably go for it simply for the added strength, and being able to wreck your rear shaft and drive home still with no leaks (front wheel drive)

lmao...good luck. i personally guarantee you that I could break 3 of them in as many weeks.

you can have that front shaft retubed to the proper length. my shortbed auto comanche with dana 44 rear, SYE, and a double cardan shaft has a center to center measurement of 46.5" (your measurement will be longer) from center of the yoke on the transfercase to the center of the yoke on the axle. this is of course with the slip-shaft at mid-slip. I highly suggest having them use ONLY the cardan from an xj front shaft, then finding a larger diameter rear slip-shaft from some other vehicle which and having them get the proper parts to mate the two together. for $40 I got the rear slip-shaft from a 77 ford (i don't know anything else but that) and the cardan from a 94 cherokee, and all told with a complete rebuild with greasable joints, the new part to put the cardan on the shaft, and retubing it all cost me $200 plus the $40 to buy the shaft (he retubed it anyways so he could mate the parts together properly...and I'm not complaining at all. suggest that you get your transfercase built then installed first, and have it lifted, THEN install the rear axle. otherwise it is IMPOSSIBLE to set the rear pinion angle properly. the rear shaft I used was measured and installed before we ever set pinion angle. the pinion angle is set at -2 degrees to the straight part of the rear shaft, to allow for lift under acceleration.

you can paypal or send M.O. or something like that. I'd need your address tho. question though...are they the same as the earlier ones? I can't see a reason for the headlight buckets to have changed, but they could have. I do not have them from 97+, BUT if they're the same I have umpteen amounts of them from 84-96 and those are all the same. i don't really have the springs for them, or the screws that you use to adjust them.

how many do you need. you pay shipping, and their yours...i've got a few sets. do you need the associated hardware too, or just the buckets?

I don't like lucas oil stabilizer...built a 4.0 for a friend a month ago and he absolutely insisted on putting it in. he put it in for all of the oil changes up to 3000 miles ( I did a 500 mile, 1200 mile, and 2200 mile oil change on it). in the middle of the three changes I didn't put the lucas in it but didn't tell him, and he asked what I did to improve it's power, economy, and make it run smooth...he didn't believe me until we put lucas in on the next one. won't be running that again. that said, I like and trust all of their other products.

lol. thanks, i forgot about them...

yes, still worth it. upgrade to an external slave bellhousing though (if it isn't already). more $$$ to do that, but you'll not regret it.

thanks. all I need is the boring cost...$$$ per cylinder. thats the only machine work that will be done. I'm porting the head and intake myself if I do, and will only have the head machined if I have the valves up-sized. found that chevy 350's bored .010 over are around $8 per cylinder

the only way they can refuse a refund is if YOU damaged the part and they can prove it. it doesn't matter if their policy is not to send back the $$$, but in small claims court you would win your $$$ back and then some.

I'm looking at building up a stroker here in the next few months for my 87 MJ, and really haven't looked at cost for boring. I want to go .030 over with the 258 crank, 4.0 rods, and some low profile pistons with a mild cam. basing it off of a renix era 4.0 with a H.O. head and 99+ intake with a borla header...it will be a porting nightmare to be sure, but well worth it in the end.

thats a good deal, but idk about the SYE. that just means you need to buy a rear shaft. i'm not aware of anyone having real problems with d/shafts until like 8+ inches in manches it's a GREAT deal. the SYE will be a good thing...even though you will have to have a rear shaft built for it (less than $200 if you go expensive with a double cardan and slip shaft). think about it this way...if you break your rear shaft or bust a rear pinion or something on your rear end, you can still drive home in front wheel drive and not leak out all the fluids. if you ask me, that's plenty reason. are you lifting this truck? if stock, still buy the parts and I will trade you a stock np231 with matching spline count PLUS some cash for your 231 with SYE

okay...i just want to know why you bought it?

thanks guys the camera is my cell phone... :eek: but I'm starting a new job here in a couple weeks and the first paycheck will be enough to cover my debts, so by the second one I will buy a new camera.

the clock issues could perhaps also happen if someone spliced into the clock harness to power the radio? :nuts:

I'm gonna stay away from the SM465...I want a 5 speed at least, and would honestly love to have an NV 3550 (i think that's it..the newer jeep 6 speed) for the closer gear ratio. already have the AX15, and it's a proven project that won't cost me much more to install...I actually kind of want to build the bellhousing myself for the simple fact that then I can use all AX5 clutch and slave cylinder parts...what I have currently is brand new. Sir Sam, I wish you were correct...the current bellhousing is for an AX5 which is almost identical to the AX15 where it bolts on the bellhousing.... except that it's around 2" smaller in rough diameter. camjeep3...you and me both lol and Pete, you are correct. do you have a viable solution for me? I don't really want this to be a project where when I'm done I have to do constant up-keep and spot-spraying. the truck won't be driven more than a few thousand miles a year after the project is done...it's become my baby project and will remain with me as long as I can keep it.

who said anything of drinking and driving..i'm not THAT dumb. i just don't want valuable things up on the wall...things tend to get damaged by sitting in a shop collecting dust. :shrug:

I've got a few neons and a couple old school hardboard posters for pabst blue ribbon, a packers and miller light neon helmet (around 3'x3'), a milwaukee bucks one (it's junk because it has the bucks on it :oops: ), and the posters are MGD. i don't really want them in the shop cause it gets real dirty in here, and I also don't drink. i've made a few mistakes in my life, and so I'm not willing to do anything to get myself into more trouble

I'm not too sure. I need a GM 60 degree bellhousing which mates to the AX15. early dakota 4 cylinders have this. I don't want to stray too far from what I know...i can rebuild the ax15 easily, as I've already done several of it's smaller cousins (ax5). it's a good strong tranny and i know enough about it to be comfortable using it. plus, many jeepers with the 4 cylinders (which also have the gm 60 degree bellhousing) do this upgrade