JeepcoMJ

shoot. that's nothing... when I used to lifeguard this past summer, and my trucks were both broke (or being built), I borrowed my buddie's 95 cherokee and drove it to work. it's a complete hick machine, with the fenders literally hacked up, bastardized lift, 31x11.50 superswampers, and the hood is red with hood vents and confederate flag bars. I was at work late, for a inner-city group after hours, and chatted with all of them while they were there...when we were all leaving after I'd locked up, I got the worst looks and comments from them saying cracker this cracker that you f*$#ing racist pig etc. etc. it's not about racism to be honest, it's just misconstrued. just like the nazi symbol (it's actually an egyptian/whatever culture peace symbol)

how about a black one with a giant comancheclub.com logo (with the truck of course) done in white on it?

sure, but putting an AX-5 in is not going to help you until you regear the truck...it will simply add another gear that the engine is incapable of pushing enough power to use. regear to 4.10's, and then get an ax5. I have one ax5 from a 94 xj, one that's in my 86 mj but is coming out for an upgrade. I rebuilt the one that is in the 86 less than 1000 miles ago, and the only thing that needs to be done is reseal it (I used RTV black, not ultrablack... :oops: ), and enough parts to build yet another one in the 2wd or 4wd flavour (plus spare transfercases for the 4wd version). not sure on shipping, but we could work it out so the whole deal benefits you.

remove the dash bezel and the radio. look at the connectors that are on top of the heater control panel. there is one on the left, which is to control fan speed. one in the center, which controls the vacuum valves one on the right which controls a/c systems. if you're just pushing cold air this leads me to believe that you are having an issue with the heater selector itself...the hot/cold part, as well as a vacuum issue. that has yet a 4th connection, which is a cable, that is on the bottom of the heater controls. you will have to unscrew the four screws, pop the upper connections, and look at the heater cable...it may be disconnected. I'm thinking that your central connection, which is all vacuum hoses, is disconnected as well, or you are not supplying vaccum through the firewall to the heaterbox. to check if you have supply, look where your heater hoses go into the firewall. there are two vacuum lines going in; one that goes OUT to the switch which is in-line with the heater hoses (this switch opens and closes to allow the heated anti-freeze to bypass the heatercore when the heat is turned off), and one that comes IN from the vacuum system. also check the vacuum supply from the intake manifold to the vacuum canister.

you'd lose top speed on the highway though. if not upgrading to a 5 speed, I'd say that 3.73 gears are the way to go.

improved mileage if you also swap to a 5 speed. more balls too when downshifting...you'll run 4th on interstate when passing

just posting up the pics of my tank. finally replaced the bulbs in the 30" light...they're now blue and geared towards invert and plant/reef life, with one white light for the fish themselves. here is the tank itself...37 gallon but ordering a 60 gallon in the same lengthXwidth dimensions as the current tank, just 1/3 times taller Image Not Found side view showing some of the fish...stupid blue damsel moved... Image Not Found I have 17 anemone in the tank...they bred or split from one I had bought that died. pink bubble tips pictured here Image Not Found clowns and urchin Image Not Found cleaner shrimp Image Not Found scooter blenny eating copepods from the live rock. look hard, he's the same color as the rock Image Not Found currently I have; 2 pajama cardinaals 2 clownfish (one ocelleris, one percula) 1 blue chromis damsel 1 yellow-tailed black chromis damsel 1 grey/yellow crest damsel 1 firefish 1 scooter blenny 1 cleaner shrimp 17 anemone (tank bred in my tank) 24 mini hermit crabs (they have also bred in the tank) 1 arrow crab 1 green bristle star fish (large sized...11" diameter) 1 black bristle star (medium sized...7" diameter) 1 tan serpent star (small sized...5" diameter) 1 long-spined sea urchin 1 pencil urchin 3 mexican turbo snails 2 black turbo snails (total cost is probably under $1000...i hope) there may yet be a sixline wrasse in the tank, but I haven't seen him in months. I had a lawnmower blenny up to a few weeks ago, but he got sick and the longspine urchin ate him. despite the amount of fish, nothing is bigger than 2.5" in length, fishwise, and with the 10 gallon refugium, prizm backpack protien skimmer, emperor 400, and two powerheads, the filtration is AMAZING in the tank. everything reads perfectly chemical-wise. I believe that the tank will currently alot me one more fish and several inverts, but the tank upgrade will be nice especially when the fluval arrives

it is done. I got kicked off after a moderater pointed out that he thought I said I'd never be back. again with the idiocy...he even quoted what I had said. i told them that if what I had to say about anything was unwanted, to please delete my account, and I'd never be back. he gave me a flag or warning or whatever, and it didn't restrict access so I went back and didn't shoot any tech info...just went into threads about how WW3 is upon us (this is a 100% opinion thread, and I just piped that no one will launch because we have 300x the kiloton power required to blow up the world, and no one is stupid enough to ensue such a thing), and one about palin pictures which went political and I voiced my opinions of it... anyways, he pointed out that I "said i'd never be back", and I pointed out that he cannot read because I said I wouldn't come back, if they deleted my post, in which case they better delete my account. soo after getting his head out of his @$$, I got kicked off indefinitely :D w00t. end of b#T$H*NG now...just suggesting everyone with knowledge and facts stay away from jeeps-offroad.com. they don't want to hear facts...just act like their right when they're not.

flag ettiquette does need to be taken into account, BUT if this is the only way for someone to show support for their country, I have ZERO problem with it. putting a flag up in any way other than defacing burning or destroying is, in my book, patriotic. that flag is not any of those things, it has been melded into a great vehicle with the intent of showing our country's colours. what do you want him to do, fly it on the back of his truck? uh...no. personally, I want to shoot the fawkin hicks who fly flags on their trucks. it's ghey.

the bottom of the cargo light sits approximately 1/4" above the rubber seal. not the hole. hopefully you didn't drill yet :P

the MJ diesels had 4.10 or 4.56 gears, and from what I can tell, most or all of the ones in the states (I can only find 15 so far) have AMC20's and the M/T rear springs. testament is my dad's 86 turbo diesel M/T 5 speed 4.10's amc20 rear but base model other than that

they are for 94 and older seats. the seats changed to 98+ there is no write-up on comancheclub for installing 1995 to 2001 xj seats. I have a pair that will get installed in my wheeling truck whenever I get the rest of the kinks worked out first. just intend to weld four tabs to the floor and bolt it in. remove anything that is in the way (such as the reinforcement rib that goes to the rockers...relocate it further back or forward). will need to bend the rear tabs a little bit to accomplish this, or locate the seat mounted a little higher than "stock"

I removed the intake tube and ran it through there for 1/2 can with the truck on and engine WARM. then killed it by pouring the rest in fast. ran a hell of alot better with more power too until just today when it wouldn't start. I suspect an unrelated issue.

nicely done! I hadn't ever thought of this...

it works 100%. you just cannot engage it at speeds as there is no synchro (it WILL grind and ruin the splines unless going -3mph) I'd say that I'm probably the first to rely on vacuum and retain the factory vacuum actuator...most of the time the Central Axle Disconnect vac actuator is junk. lucky me, when that happens, I have three more of them :D I'll do a writeup and will probably consider putting together a kit...these switches get thrown away where my dad works so I'm sure it could work out if anyone wants to go this route. anyways, I'm having other issues with the truck right now...just got home for the first time since wednesday, and the god damned thing will not start, has a full tank of gas, and a plethora of new sensors have been installed already....

...and about as useful as the box of rocks that I use to weight down the back of the truck in the winter. a TJ front 44 uses dana 30 outer components and ujoints; i.e. you can buy one, for lots of $$$, but then you need to dump another grand into it to have it be worthwhile. plus, IIRC, it's low pinion.

yea. too far though...not worth the trip. although, I do have to head to that area next month for my great uncle's wake (he passed just this past month, but wanted us to wait a month before getting together after it happened, so we would remember good things instead of mourn over bad. no, he's not on a cold plate or anything...cremated).

1984 to 1986 cherokee wagoneers had that grille. 1986 comanche custom 4x4's had them as an option (exclusive to the comanche custom only). I have one on my 87 MJ that came from an 85 XJ wagoneer...love it :D

I think the name is commonly associated with clean MJ's ;) B-E-A-utiful man.

thanks 8-8 I upgraded my CAD vacuum switch to a air-toggle switch from a semi that my dad salvaged from a wrecked rig for me. it works 10 times better with zero leaks, the cannister now holds vacuum instead of leaking it out, and it even has a "safety" to keep anyone from accidently flipping it down :D it has an input and two outputs, with a switch that's spring-loaded on a pin inside. the pin has O-rings and is set up so that one side of the switch is longer than the other, and in switching it you actually open and close chambers inside. pretty neat, and it works like a charm :D

yes they would. also, if you do not have stock sized tires and didn't change the speedometer gear, or if you changed axles/gears and didn't change the speedo gear, your speedometer is not reading correctly and so you could not POSSIBLY get an even close to accurate reading by doing math based on the simple odometer readings...i.e. if it's off by positive 15%, then you need to multiply the total miles on one tank by 1.15 to get total miles, then divide the total by however many gallons you used. similarly, if you are off by negative 15%, you will multiply the total miles on the odometer by .85, to get the total miles. so on and so forth, whatever the percentage is that you are off, you need to figure it in to get accurate readings. I get 27 to 29mpg highway/interstate with the 3800 if I light-foot it the whole time and have few stops...but if you just did the math with just the odometer (which is off by 12.2%), you'd think it was getting a solid 22mpg. it gets 20mpg city.

I think your comments relate to the eearly NWC ( Non World Class) transmissions, they were used until the mid to late eightys. the NWC treanmissions were still used, but in the high performance cars they went with the WC transmissions. Here is a link to find out what kind of trans you might have and which vehicle it was used in http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Borg-Warner-T5-ID-Tags.htm actually, if i did not need a scattershield, i would go with a NV 3550. great trans, and the 2wd units do not go for that much money. plus since it came in the cherokee, it goes right into a MJ. Problem is that you cannit get a scattershield for it. I think that you're mistaken about the quality of the T5 transmission. it is in the same class as the AX5, and would not hold up behind a 4.0 of any sort...hence the reason that T5's were the SUBSTITUTE for the AX5 when the factory ran short. you want a good, tested, solid, and proven 5 speed behind the 4.0? go with the AX15 and you will have no issues.

unfortunately, I don't. but, I do have all of the parts for a project like that except for 2dr xj doors. if done, it would be a simple cab extension by 9" and 2dr xj doors. non-functional rear cab which would just be storage not seating, fold-down center armrest with 3rd seat, 97+ interior and probably the 2500 front clip with the shortbed. this would leave a 2" gap between the cab and the bed, so the bed would have to move forward 1.15" to put it back to stock, and the axle would also need to move forward that much (this would require redrilling the spring mounts forward by the same dimension, and doing the same with the shackles...). I would also have to chop some off of the rear of the frame. it would be simple to cut the cab properly while keeping the MJ on the factory frame rails and not extending them at all, plus it would retain the factory unibody integrity and actually be stronger by the time it's done. I would probably remove the cab vents and put in 2dr xj vent windows, or 4dr xj rear door slab-windows with the cab vent in place. split rear window would have to be automatic, all power accessories as well. I just don't know if I want to cut this truck up that much.

Welcome, if you have a '90, it doesn't have an HO unless someone replaced it, then it's not stock. I was just going to point that out. and the only way you'd beat him is if you had a 5 speed and worked on aerodynamics a bit...tonneau cover to reduce negative air pressure swirling behind the cab. also, you only have 3.55 gears or 3.73 gears so you're not really geared too low. the camaro will have 3.23 gears and likely would keep up since it's lighter and more aerodynamic. if the camaro had a 3800 v6 instead of a 3.4 v6, as newer camaros and firebirds do, then you would have absolutely ZERO chance at beating it. but maybe I'm biased...I have a 3800 installed in my 86 longbed 4x4 MJ with a 5 speed and smoke my buddie's H.O. cherokee which is geared lower than mine EVERY TIME. in a camaro, it would be a cake-walk.

sentimentality. my father and I built the truck from the ground up, it's powered by a 3800 camaro engine and is actually a very nice jeep (the bed is even better than most). my options are to fix the bed, replace the bed, or extend the cab and replace the bed with a shortbed.