JeepcoMJ

*shrug*. hands need to be small but a ratcheting wrench helps...especially when you make an extension tool for it (using a closed wrench doesn't work too well in that tight of a spot). I take them off with the intake intact, reinstall seperate of each other...easier, and you should be replacing the intake/exhaust manifold gasket every time.

let me know if there is any other part you eed. I have other things to take care of with you...never made it to 89eliminator's house as I had to go to socal for work. I will be in socal for another 5 weeks, but will send you any other electrical part you'd need

i know, but what would you use co2 on a truck for? mild air tools, airing up tires. C02 has a higher compression rate/ability than air, thus that small tank, if it's for C02 (which it loooks like it is) is the equivelent of 3 or 4 tanks of compressed air. for trail riding...air up tires, mild trail repairs using air tools.

compressed C02/compressed air.

I thought you went with a high output? if so, that throttle body is renix and won't bolt on to high output. edit: I see your intake manifold is a renix...do you have a HO block or is it also renix? I can't remember why, but I was under the impression that this was also an H.O. update as well...

I had to put the windshield from my 95 cherokee project/shell into it this past weekend as an owl decided to hit the old one. also salvaged some '99 cherokee rear hatch struts from a wrecked xj and put them in as hood struts.

the reason that typical bed lifts only have a 40" extension on the boom is that they reside at bed rail height...they operate at very extreme angles (i.e. boom extends to over 90 degrees from the center point of the pivot) to do so, but keeping the base that low helps reinforce the mounting points to the bed, as my grandpa explained it to me. he has one in every one of his construction trucks, and they use them regularly for a variety of equipment...very convenient, and pretty safe.

you will regret ever selling it. it's built, it's wheelable. best bet, park it. rotate the tires, keep it clean, don't invest any more money until you are able to justify it by actually using it. it's too nice and you're too smart to sell it after all the EXCELLENT hard work you've put into it.

tracking number provided either tomorrow (wednesday the 9th) or thursday night. shipping out will depend on time I get off of work and how much time it takes to fix my grandfather's duramax as he needs it thursday morning. 1/2 of what LotGod paid me will be refunded friday 9/18/09. I will also send out what I owe 87mjdriver on that date. I will not sell anything to non-local members on this forum again. my BS is not worth your guys headaches. If you are local, and need parts...chances are you have my number or means of contacting me and you are more than welcome to come raid my parts pile. It's not anything anyone here cares to hear, or will believe, but I am sorry. -Pat

what leadnotfollow said. but don't cut the harness...just disconnect it.

congrats correy! btw...that nurse holding your baby in the first pic looks like she hasn't shaved recently... :rotf: :rotfl2: :banana: :thumbsup:

officially on the NO list. have fun guys, I'm not spending money.

uh. :doh: :rotfl2: 1988 jeep comanche chief shortbed thanks freakjeep

rob, he's got a girlfriend....she wouldn't appreciate you calling him that.... lol. I'm curious too.

you're overcomplicating it. and because of the back-feeding across the other wire, that's why it won't work.

huh. there is only one brake light wire in the MJ...two turn signal wires tho. perhaps that's the issue?

thanks jackass. I think a big @#$% you is in order :yes:

no problem. I ended up figuring it out with a test light because no one else could tell me. I'll probably start a thread in the DIY section. E-brake light IDK what I did with it. don't think it's hooked up to anything right now...just coiled up in the XJ center console harness. you really just need to peel it back out of the xj center console harness and re-route it back up to the factory E-brake and plug it in to the connector on the e-brake. I don't have mine connected and the brake light isn't on :hmm: as I said, I only did what was necessary to get it running...then completely forgot about it until seeing your thread. I don't drive my own vehicles much...have a company van for going to work and back, and the jeeps are basically driven locally...i.e. around 10 miles a week.

yup. back on topic.

No, was not worth it. But I wanted to try. Sounds like it's stroker time for you now. :thumbsup: no, thanks. I had originally wanted to stroke an engine with a H.O. conversion...but I'm perfectly fine with it as is. it puts out more than enough power for my needs (mopar reman, under 6,500 miles on it with my driving and P.O's combined...bored .020 or .030 over, with this intake and the header...it's plenty strong). I do have a 2001 block though, that I picked up for free. and I can run over and pull a crank and rods out of a buddy's project (350 conversion) 89 YJ to do a poor man's stroker, or a nice proper setup with a shaved deck and whatever those expensive-arse pistons are to use the 4.0 rods. either way, you and I both now that I need to get my act back together before I even consider doing anything more than basic maintenance and/or projects for which I already have the parts and will cost $0.

I'll get a pen and paper some time tomorrow while I'm at fair and write down which wires in the comanche harness go to what, and which wires in my 95 cherokee harness are what, and which got connected to what. the turn signals are a straight connection...nothing needed to adapt. but there is no brake light wire in the XJ harness...the cherokee just puts power to both turn signals in order to turn them on IIRC. there is a pin on your turn signal switch (located by your feet on top of the steering column) that is empty. you will be able to test it with a wiring test light for power, and just throw a pin connector out of your old harness in it then run a wire over to the comanche's brake light wire. should more or less take care of your problems with wiring for the fuel pump and tail lights. I have yet to wire up the interior lights and center console lights, so I'll let you know when I figure that out.

for what it's worth, hornbrod....I would not have thought to modify the stock brackets for the p/s pump. frankly, I'm glad I didn't. that looks like it was a headache to get just right.

yup. runs like a champ...that's in my 87 (the War Machine thread in MJ projects). have put 3500 miles on it. since mine was renix prior to the swap, I just made a crossover connector using high pressure fuel hose, oetickres, the 1995 disconnects @ the fuel rail, and the renix disconnects at the body-side of the fuel lines. worked out good, and haven't had issues. the truck is geared @ 4.10 and on 33's even 35's it is still faster than any lifted jeep around here, from what I've seen. I average 17mpg to 23mpg give or take depending on how I drive it. only issue I have to cover now is to get the vent line for the gas tank hooked up to the EVAP canister...I'm sure that that is affecting my gas mileage, as well as causing a vacuum leak (lose vacuum @ heater box and CAD switch when turned off). I had to play around a bit with swapping around vacuum lines for everything.

and maybe vbulletin style posting where we can press Ctrl+B, Ctrl+I, and Ctrl+U to bold, italics, and underline things. ...I'm getting yelled at for caps lock on here and other forums when I'm stressing a point....just used to it taking too much time to type, remember where stress points are, highlight, then click whichever one I need to use.

I've got other obligations tomorrow, sorry man. volunteer @ fair, then doing a side job for a lady (hopefully) later tomorrow night throwing a new p/s pump in a 98 4.0