JeepcoMJ

I'd suggest a ground strap if mounted on the swing out.

you're gettin there! :clapping:

follow hornbrod's statements...he's very knowledgable on these intakes. I have a 99 intake on a 95 motor that's bored .030 with a comp. cam, borla header (not direct bolt-in btw) and 62mm (I think...may be 60mm) throttle body. very good throttle response, great power, and I get 16-18mpg city, 19-22mpg highway. that's running 35x12.50 m/t's with 4.10 gears.

at least i have some color variety going on... i speak spanish...

bigger pics

my bro's

89 5 speed mj is what the harness came out of. IIRC the build date on it was early 89. I got the MJ from geonovast...he still has the title for it so he could confirm the year. I'd have to agree that a ground being plugged to the starter relay could fry out the starter relay and/or fusible links. did you get it plugged in, or with everything unplugged? I cannot remember. -Pat

thanks thats what I wanted to know. he's got on board air so he's good on airing it up. very easy :D

very nice! I'll have to get on alldata to see if that's the same wiring as a high output xj harness...I still need to do all my light wiring etc.

red is the only way to go...that and green. :yes: yeah, because everyone wants their MJ's to look like christmas :shake: :ack:

this is an 88, was my first ax15 conversion, the second 4x4 conversion. had a 2wd ba10/5, now ax15/external/np231. it's got a new motor in it, and has quite alot of power. it's been pushing 31's for quite awhile now (3 years about) and has no issues...didn't have any issues with the plow we had on it previously. this isn't the first factory plow we've had, and not the first time this truck has had one on it. We already know what it can do with 31's and it doesn't require 4L to push if the snow isn't above 7" or so. as far as how it works with lift coils, I'm not too worried about that either. this truck is getting lifted 3.5" and that's that. not an option to keep it low, and the 3" RC AAL is tired.I'll make it work. thanks

I've never once needed a special tool to remove them, and never seen a spring clip in them either...

lose the prop valve. hornbrod, I'm cleaning out all my parts...IIRC there are two load valves here. I'll save them and at some point in time they'll probably make it your way. I don't have a single MJ that still has a load valve. they're a PITA to bleed, prone to leaking/failing/falling apart, and I see them as nothing but a detriment. did not notice any changes in breaking power, but I did swap in xj proportioning valves.

my brother is picking up an OEM meyers plow setup for the front of his MJ soon. we're also swapping axles for a disco d30 with d44 (trac-loc) that are 3.55 gear. going from 30/35 combo with 3.07. he's putting new 31" bridgestone duellers on his icon rims, hopefully a set of stanley rear springs (metric tonne replica on the MJ I sold to TNT) that will bump it up to 3.5" rear lift. we're keeping the 3" RC front coils and adding one or two factory isolators to each side. I've had an OEM plow before, and it was very hard on the front end even after we swapped the stock jeep to heavy duty front coils. there are a few guys on here, IIRC, who added a manually-aired air bag inside their front coils so they could adjust the stiffness of the front end when the plow was on. wondering who it was, where they got them, and how much they are, plus any pics I can get. this is the only viable solution IMHO as it's a lifted truck and they don't make lift coils in the spring rate I need. -Pat

your MJ makes me...

6'1", used cherokee swivel buckets which are 3" taller. my legs are real long and this not only opened up leg room but also did not affect head room.

replaced the ignition cylinder (from a 95xj since I did the conversion), lucky I had a spare for a 95 column. Been in L.A. for 6 weeks for work and my bro broke the ignition somehow :mad: , so I also got to start it for the first time in almost 2 months....and I think it's angry with me :( oh, and jumped the battery because he left the dome lights on :doh: back out of town for 3 more days then mounting the second set of 35x12.50r15 dunlop radial mud rovers on my second set of cragar soft 8's (15x8's, 3" BS) and getting them balanced.

I sold a pair of comanche bucket seat brackets (sliders and floor brackets in OEM condition) on ebay for $175, and a pair of very nice grey comanche wing back buckets in very nice shape w/o brackets for $270. the guy was deseperate and offered that if I'd end the auction. I tossed in a comanche full center console because I felt like I was robbing him. but regular going price, you're looking at around $250 for a complete setup.

heaviest thing I towed was an M715 on a skid steer trailer. the back end of the truck was sitting (bottomed out) on the shocks, and the only reason I towed was it was only 15 miles, and the skid steer trailer had a hydraulic brakes controlled by the tongue (you brake, tong depresses hydraulic valves and engages brakes on trailer equal to momentum on truck). would I do it again? nope. I'll flat tow another cherokee, comanche, or lighter...or use my tow dolly. I wouldn't tow any more weight than that.

use both hands. put fingers of each hand behind the crank handle, opposite of each other, and pull until it comes off. the window cranks have no clips. just splines. pull evenly from either side, it'll come off every time. try and be sitting down on the rocker with the door open, holding it open using your knee. that keeps ya from falling backwards while you pry it.

I suggest the SC 3800. the only issue you're gonna have with the SC 3800 is that the throttle body will be directly in the firewall. my series 2 3800 is sitting directly against the firewall (1" space between). there are around 9" in front of the engine though.... so, if you went with an SC 3800 and pushed it all the way as far forward as you could, you could then gain enough room for the supercharger and throttle body on back of the engine. but then the oil filter would be virtually inside the front crossmember and quite the PITA to do an oil change. and 4.3 swaps have been done before. you can't fit that 4.3 radiator into the engine bay because the steering box is in the way.

to fit a bigger radiator, and retain hood latch. the radiator in your 86 is set back a few inches and it will interfere w/ the front of the motor and/or fans. plus the 86 radiator is NOT enough cooling for a 4.3 a 3.4 out of an early 90's camaro or firebird has the same bellhousing as your 2.5, and you can get one easily enough and then fuel inject it. you won't have quite as much power as a 4.0 or 4.3, but it's fairly straight forward and you can use exhaust and oil pan from any 84-86 jeep 2.8 liter. an ax5 should survive fairly well behind a 3.4 I did a buick 3800 swap on my 86 to replace the 2.8 that was in it...as much power (more) than a 4.3 or a 4.0, reliable motor, GREAT fuel economy. it's the same bellhousing pattern as your 2.5, BUT it has way too much power for an ax5

you'll still need the 4.0 front clip, radiator support, and hood (the hood latches are a PITA to refit to an 86 hood) in order to fit a 4.3 liter.

and you'll need a complete radiator support swap, front frame crossmember swap, and hood swap to put a 4.0 on.

nice. suggestion before you paint the bumper.... angle the corners 45 degrees on it, and beef up the d-ring mounts. those d-ring mounts are about 1/2" too thin.