ComancheKid45

:drool: :agree:

*Update* This problem was solved by running a whole new wire from the harness plug near the relay center to the fuel pump, somewhere in the system the main power wire to the fuel pump was severed. i just replaced it and cut the old 1 outta the setup and wa la, problem has been gone for a few weeks now :D

This isnt excatly your problem but i ran into a "no power to pump" issue just last month, here's my topic and hopefully it may help you track your problem down :dunno: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29642&hilit=Seriously+another+no+start

Hey now don't be hatin on the Ke$ha :thwak: :peek: :rotfl2:

The Temp sensor was replaced when i upgraded my gauges in March 2010, the o2 sensor was replaced back in Jan with the PCM. :dunno: Thanks though.... ;)

Alrighty guys, i got another 1 for ya to solve :smart: After some slow wheeling or even a decent drive that gets the engine up to temprature, after the engine is shut down and sits for a few minutes when I goto restart the truck fires right up but usually acts like its missing on 1-2 cylinders for about 15-30 seconds than it clears up and runs perfectly normal. The truck is an 88 4.0 AW4. Any ideas on any specific area to check out, All plug wires are in tact and in good shape, the plugs were replaced in Jan. and the dist/rotor are only a few months old and as mentioned this only happens on restarts after the engine has had a few minutes of heat soak than clears up to normal withen 15-30 seconds and will continues to run fine untill the next hot restart... Thanks for any ideas as always! ;)

To my knowledge the HO 4.0 started in 91..... :dunno:

I have a LWB shaft for a D44...

Got the Wheels swapped over today :wrench: Id say ive given this little fella a new outlook on life, as mentioned he'll be staying in the family as Mom and Dads work truck. I'm thrilled with how it has turned out and it has many more happy days ahead of it :cheers:

Its back up home from the garage :cheers: A set of alloy wheels will be installed tomorrow hopefully and after a throrough interior cleaning Itll begin a new stage of its life. :clapping: Will also take some good pictures of it all completed when possible :thumbsup:

Brought the freshly painted "Wood Truck" up to the house :clapping:

I finished up the painting today! I have a few emblems to reattach and then a nice cleaning and this truck will be ready for its work duties! :cheers: Plenty of pics to come :D

Snapped 2 quick shots this evening, I'm taking the MJ to a "Mopar" show at the local dealer tomorrow. Go show some people what real Jeeps were all about

Sounds like a triditional Crank Sensor problem... :wrench:

AAAHHHHH I'm infected too!!!! :chillin: :drool:

Its taken a few days longer than expected but I finally got the 1st coat of paint on! I can't wait to see this thing completed! :D

Yes, that red (was orange at the very end post fusable link) wire came together at the solenoid with the green wire on the same eyelet. I bypassed the fuable links for those 2 and still had nothing so I ruled them out as well...

Well its been about 2 weeks since i though this issues was resoved after repairing the connection. After about 50 or so miles of driving and replacing the alternator that had crapped out I went to fire up the truck this morning and boom....No more power to the fuel pump, alright so i went back under the hood to the previous trouble spot and noticed my repair hadnt held up. No problem, I just sperared the orange wire from the eylet and made up a new wire onto its own connection on the Master Soleniod, all back together but Still Nothing :huh???: Ill try my best to describe where i am now with words. Any I did some tracing and when I run 12v direct to the pump its runs The pump checks out! Now here's where it gets tricky, there is a red wire that runs from the connector right above the relays to an eylet connected to the master soleniod, with 12v applied to that wire AND the fuel pump jumper wire the truck will start and idle, only for a few seconds then that connector begins to heat up quick, i kill the 12v to that connection and the truck dies (all this is done under the hood, no input from the key to kill the engine) The orange wire (fuel pump power i assume) and the red wire both are able to get ot the point where they begin to melt, I didnt let em get there but thats opointing to a short or else a larger amount of power flowing through them than there should be (extra 12v?) Anyway thats the only way the truck will run... Put back to the normal way all the wired are hooked up, when the key is turned to the "on" posistion there is no priming of the pump and the truck does not start, If straight power is applied to the pump with the pump running the truck still doesnt not start. the only way to start the truck is to connect the 12v fuel pump jumper inline with that red wire, while leaving all others hooked as they should be., in turn overheating that and another circuit...... Ive been over the wiring diagram as well as my uncle, he has traced out a few ideas for me and i also have been though a few topic on here and have a few more tests to try. Truck has spark, just no power being sent to the fuel pump :help: Thanks for any help or ideas you guys may have, I'm not giving up ;)

Finished up preping the surface and got the tape applied this evening, I plan on getting to painting tomorrow, as long as no other vehicles throws a fit and requires attention :wrench:

Was working on it, I'm gonna get a "real" drill bit next and see if that helps, I have a set of brand new 1s but they would go about 1/3 way through and just stop, like the metal just was too hard for em and burnt em up :wall: . We spend plenty of time with a 10 pound sledge and a punch as well.....them suckers just wouldent budge :fs2:

Yes, the lower Torx bolts for the sway bar. I have already cut off both sides flush with the axle mount but we cannot seem to get the centers to come out. I had zero issues with these on my 88 MJ and these were giving us all kinds of fits on this Cherokee... Ill try and snap a pic today if I meet up with him again. thanks!

Would be great, but both sides have been cut and grinded flush with the mount. Is it possible that they are tapered and can only be hammered out from the inside-out?

Alright, this isnt my problem but 1 for my friends 99 XJ. Were attempting to install sway bar disconnects today and we can't seem 2 to remove the stock pins to install the new 1s. Weve tried everything from heat and Hammers to drills, and even with brand new bits we cannot even penetrate through those things. Is theyre any other options or tricks that maybe were missing? thanks for any help! :cheers:

1st Ive really looked into this thread but I'm impressed! keep it up :cheers:

Got my 160amp "Powerhouse" installed this evening, as well as upgraded the wire to 4gauge. :wrench: The pic was taken just as i dropped it in, i did bolt it tight, unlike the pic shows :shake: