Knucklehead97

Not really sure which vacuum line that is. But any leak is bad. Check your MAP vacuum line. It runs off the side of your throttle body to a sensor on the firewall. Its one of the most important vacuum lines and personally mine has melted itself shut and given me NO power but a perfectly fine idle...

Is there any place I can get the Renix orings other than the dealer? The local dealer tried to charge me 30$ for the orings. But he swore oreillys sells a kit that has the orings in it. Definitely don't want to spend 30$ on them.

Which vacuum line was it that was broken?

I bought Bosch. Rockauto no longer carries them. It dissapeared when I went to purchase. But Ebay has the same kit for 67$. Or they did last month when I changed mine. I also have a write up in the DIY section explaining how to make the Bosch fit. Best of luck :D

I finally got the sending unit and fuel pump installed. I turn the key and hear a nice hum. Then I crank it and bam started right up (after my brother in law jumped me off because for some reason my battery was dead... ) BUT. I have 31 PSI with engine off and key ON. Just the fuel pump running. But then I have about 26 at idle with the vacuum line connected and just engine cold. I didnt have time to let the engine warm up. Do I seriously still have low fuel pressure with every fuel system component changed? Help is seriously needed.

I think it looks pretty killer, honestly. One of my favorite front bumpers from what I've seen. That price is wayyy above what I'd want to spend though.

Well if I have to change my TPS AGAIN then I know what I'm doing. :D

This is fantastic. But why is your TPS on the back of the throttle body?

Hmm, good to know then. Sorry for the misinformation. Anybody know if the Anchor motor mounts will be good enough for a Jeep thats not going to be put through hell?

On the 4.0 it seems that you can't remove the passenger side motor mount because the bolt hits the oil filter and if you remove the oil filter then it hits the nipple. Or at least it did in a video I watched and the owner had to loosen and rotate the whole thing. My orings are shot anyways so I was going to do both at the same time for less trouble.

I've got a list of little parts that are needed. Such as power steering hoses, motor mounts, and possibly replacing my oil filter adapter with an HO one. Will the power steering hoses from Advance be fine for this or is there a manufacturer clash behind it all? Same with the motor mounts... I was going to order Anchor ones off Ebay for half the price that Advance sells Anchor ones. I just want to know if theres any reason to not get Anchor ones? I don't want to spend 30$+ each on super duty poly mounts. And the last question is about ya'lls oppinions on the oil filter adapter swap. And also how to get this dang thing on without taking the engine out... I got it off a junkyard HO that I actually almost took the engine out just so I could get it. Its a really tight fit for a torx bit. I've heard a lot of people say to just knock out the positioning pin for the original adapter and just rotate it. Which I will do, if its better and easier to do. My orings badly need a change and as we know, you can't change the motor mounts without messing with the OFA a little bit. Thanks in advance.

I just finished installing my aftermarket Bosch 69302 fuel pump onto my sending unit. Thought I would post up some pics with a small note on the slight southern "finessing" that you must do to make it fit correctly because I couldn't find a write up and its something thats a little confusing when you first look at it. To start off, this is a Bosch 69302 fuel pump replacement kit. The kit comes with spacers and an extended elbow and all that fancy stuff because the aftermarket pump is noticably smaller than the original and requires some extra pieces to make it work. here's the finished product The top black part is the rubber piece in the kit with the wide hole. The bottom one is the small holed one with 8 even smaller holes. here's where you have to "finesse" the bracket a little bit On the left side of the bracket in that picture (the side that bolts onto the sending unit) if you compare the picture to the bracket off your own unit, you'll probably find that mine is more round. Thats what you have to grind it to be like. Its just to clear the white spacer so that the bracket seats completely onto the black rubber piece and keeps the fuel pump sturdy. I did use the plug extender simply because on the new pump the connectors are close together and looked like they would arc off each other if they weren't shielded. Its pretty easy to do and only takes about a half hour once you figure out what you're doing. Hope it helps someone :D any questions are welcome. Thanks.

If you're polite and work with them instead of being defensive then Hornbrod and Cruiser will become your best friends. Cruiser has helped me with numerous problems on my truck for months and still gladly answers questions without telling me to eff off (quite amazed, honestly). Hornbrod has also been quite a good chap with a few situations. Most of us on here are men... we use tough love and bust each others balls. And yes I know this reply did not help the OP's problem at all. Just had to chime in since he said Hornbrod wasn't friendly. Good day fellas :D

Gotta love the aftermarket support of these beautiful machines.

This looks much better, to me. Just gotta trim the top bracket a little bit more so it comes into contact with the rubber piece at the top.

Thats what I figured. Time to try again...

Does this look correct to you? Its about all I could manage to make work and tighten down well. Just worried about the fuel sock being a couple inches higher than normal. Definitely will have to trim the elbow

I hate that I've been opening so many topics lately. But I can not figure this out and need to know ASAP. I bought a Bosch 69302 fuel pump for my new sending unit. This is the Bosch pump part number that every parts website says fits my truck. But it came in and its a lot smaller than the original pump. It has these rubber bushings which I think make the pump work, though. But I cannot figure out how they're supposed to go on. Has anyone ever done this before? I need to know ASAP so that I can send it back if I have to. Thanks.

The connector spins, I mean.

I've gotten the locknut on the connector tightned down as much as I can. But it still spins if you apply enough force. Is that okay?

Whoops, mines for a MJ, not XJ. Got.confused. Sorry.

Just bought one off Ebay for 66$ shipped.

I didn't know they could make Aerosal cans with the certain paint code. I'm planning on painting the entire truck a different color eventually but its so cold here right now that I can't. But then again the truck isn't driving yet so I have to wait either way. I just want to get this massive box of flares out of my room :D

I've got a Bosch pump kit on the way. Found an Oring I think will work and will get a locknut, lockring, and fuel sock tomorrow. Going to use steel wool to clean up the oxidation on the inside a little bit. Quite nervous and gentle when handling this thing lol.

I may actually have to wait on the full rebuild. I just researched how to paint in winter, and ends up theres no successful way really. I have no indoor, warm, place that I could go. I'm still going to get a new locknut and oring for it and I'm going to search thoroughly for pin holes. The "ears" are still perfectly strong. Its all surface rust. My only worry is on the inside of the unit, that white surface residue. How could I get rid of that white stuff, if it would impair the opperation of the unit in any way? A full rebuild will happen this summer hopefully. Gotta have this thing in sooner though. Thanks.