Knucklehead97

picked up 4 of these today for 50$! TJ Canyons, I'm guessing? They're in pretty good condition from what I can tell. No deep scratches and no dents. Can't wait to throw a set of street tires on these and a couple coats of semi gloss black and clear coat :D

How much for a auto tranny fuse block with good terminals and a good bit of wire behind it?:D

I honestly don't see why they wouldn't be. I've seen cherokees with HO's (around 95's I think) and they have the exact same fuse box from what I can tell. I plan to get one from an auto tranny XJ in the junkyard to swap in, unless someone on here wants to cut me a deal lol.

Great, I've made my decision then. Now... anyone got an auto tranny fuse block they want to donate? Lol :D

What diameter rosin-core should I get? The guy at the parts store told me this was rosin core and that it just didn't say it on the label... great. I'm probably going to go ahead and shoot for a quality product as I do plan to do a lot of wiring in my future. But I doubt I'll ever touch circuit boards so would a gun be better for me than an iron? Sorry for so many questions, never dealt with this stuff before lol.

What type of solder do I need? I already have an ounce of .015" diameter 62/36/2 silver bearing solder. What would be a cheap but half decent quality soldering gun? I was looking at this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002YDMZF4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1433880101&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&keywords=soldering+gun&dpPl=1&dpID=417MUx4Lc8L&ref=plSrchbut honestly if there was a cheaper option that was good quality, I would take it. I'm probably going to go the route of splicing and soldering the wires... seems the best option to me.

I've been reading up on removing the fuse block and installing one from an auto XJ because mine is totalled... But like always I have many questions about it. Like will the wire colors be the same on the new fuse block? The junkyard I go to doesn't have any pre 91 Jeeps. They're all HO, so will the wires still be the same color? I'm guessing that I'm going to be soldering in the new wires instead of pulling the terminals and just putting them in the new block because my terminals seem to be destroyed as well. If I was to just buy the new fuse terminals and crimp them on the wire, is there a special tool for that? Lastly, what is a good, cheap, soldering iron for this job? Never really soldered before so I'm not that sure what would be a good iron... basically just looking for everyones opinions on doing this swap. Wanting to get it done once I get my truck in and out of a shop having some other problems figured out. Thanks!

Has anyone ever figured out how to keep the parking brake from taking off your fingers when you let it go? Mine shoots up past where its supposed to stop and tries to hit my hand... also seems like it returns with way to much force.

I believe I've seen it. Where it comes out of the hood? It's what Bleepin Jeep did a video on. I'm using his design for the custom air filter housing. I would LOVE to do a hood intake but it's not the look I'm going for with my Jeep. I appreciate the help, though :D

Thats a great idea! But my entire reason behind doing this is to completely eliminate the stock air box. I was planning to use the spectre flexible intake hose from Advance auto (20$. Sadly can't find a cheaper option...) to route the intake up and over the clutch MC while still keeping my filter housing mostly where the old wiper fluid bottle was. Connection that 3" intake hose to the filter housing is the only problem I'm having with my design lol :D

I've been building up a cowl intake for the past week in my spare time since its been to late to work on my idle problems by the time I get home. I'm trying to do it as cheaply as possible, so PVC is being used. The only problem I'm having is the fact that PVC sizes are ID and intake pieces are OD a lot of the time. On my new filter housing made out of PVC I plan to have a 4"-3" reducer coming from the throttle body and a 4"-2" reducer going to the cowl. The ID of the 2" side would be 2 1/2" and I plan to connect a 3" hose over that reducer to go to the cowl. Would the intake being 2 1/2"'s in this small section cause any problems at all? If I have to I can try to file it out to be closer to 3". Just don't know if this would cause the engine to struggle for air. Thanks.

Sadly I found out today that an HO intake tube is to small to fit on the adapter. So a 3" intake elbow would be required.

The only advantage is that you can now use any aftermarket intake that has a 3" connection at throttle body and route your intake to pretty much anywhere you could want. Cowl, snorkel, hood, anywhere. Theres no changes to the throttle body at all. The fact that the opening on the adapter is bigger than on the throttle body really doesn't change anything, I don't think. The stock tube is the same size as this I believe.

image from a different angle. It does come with a rubber gasket, as well. At least they were concerned with proper sealing.

I found one of those Spectre Renix intake adapters for cheap on Amazon (17$ shipped to my door) so I decided to buy it and write a review of it because I could not find a review on just the adapter anywhere. And I'm wanting to use an HO intake tube instead of the Renix one, so why not try this out? What the product is, is an aluminum plate (either 3/16" or 1/4" thick, didn't feel like checking for sure) with a 3" piece of an aluminum pipe welded to it. At first glance its got a great "ooo pretty and shiny" effect, but it will be painted before installation. I installed it on my stock throttle body which was laying in my room just so I could get a good idea of how it fits. it looks pretty good. There are two things I am concerned about, though. Both circled in the image. One is where the IAC gets its air from. The adapter cuts about 3/8" of that off and leaves that little bit of the port open to feed the air. I'm not sure if it will effect idle or performance but time will eventually tell. And secondly the corner beside the throttle lever is just a HAIR to big. Just scrapes a little. Easily solved with a file or dremel tool. Otherwise the product seems well made but they could have made it contour to the angles of the top of the throttle body better. I give it a 4/5 IF it doesn't have a negative effect on performance once installed. Hope you all enjoyed this review, and I hope I posted it in the correct forum. If I didn't, then mods please do as you will. Please leave opinions on both the product and the concerns I had with it, below. Questions are accepted as well, I will try to answer them to the best of my abilities. Cheers :D Zach.

Exactly my feelings on it. And it's cheaper other than the filter itself being 30$. I can't find an inline filter for any cheaper than that. I'm hoping to get the reducers soon and have the filter housing kinda fitted in the engine bay. If rain would quit so I could do some of the important work on the Jeep...

Jeep Snorkel - DIY for $144.37 or Less: Hope that link works. The Thor kit is for passenger side only from what I understand. The passenger side has the room for the filter to fit in. With the Bleepin Jeep snorkle I'm just taking the filter housing idea, i don't want it going over my engine is why I'm routing it to where the old windshield cleaner bottle was. I also bought one of Spectres Renix TB adapters to make a Renix use a 3" coupler instead of being in one fitted position. My idea will probably work with the stock intake position but I wanted to try it out and let other people know how it works out because I couldn't find any info on it.

Which cowl intake did you choose? I'm guessing Spectre as it has an inline filter and the Thor kit uses a filter in the cowl itself. I'm doing as Bleepin Jeep did in his homemade snorkle video. Its just 4" PVC with a Spectre inline cone filter fitted inside. I'm working on figuring out how I am actually going to run it to the cowl, flexible intake hose is expensive... and gosh I love that relay center! I was just going to get about 5 relays with plugs off Amazon and make a panel either out of Kydex or angle iron to screw them to. And on the EVAP canister I honestly didn't know there was an option other than the stock set up.

While it's been almost non-stop raining lately and I cannot do anything time consuming to the Jeep because of such, my mind has still been stuck on "Jeep mod" mode. I've decided I'm going to homebrew a cowl intake with an inline air filter like Bleepin Jeep did. Just instead of out of the hood it's actually pulling air out of the driverside cowl. Since I have upgraded to a 97+ wiper fluid bottle the space where the old one was is almost perfect for the inline air filter canister to sit. Since I'm going to have that big space open without the air box, I want to move my EVAP canister over there so that I can put my coolant overflow bottle where the EVAP canister is and put a relay center on the firewall where the coolant bottle kinda is in front of right now. Then an accessory fuse panel beside the battery to save on wires being connected to my positive terminal. I made up a picture kind of explaining where I'm planning on moving everything, what do you guys think? seems like it would clean up the engine bay a little bit for me and add my own little personal touch to the Jeep. If all of this is able to be in these places, I don't see why they couldn't be.

No problem man! The resistor could already be failing. Easy to check, just unbolt it from the firewall and see if the ceramics inside are cracked (thats how I told mine was bad) and I didn't splice them together. I just built a jumper wire so if I want to add a resistor for some reason in the future, I can.

Yep. Just the normal Airtex one, works fine. Try a hammer! Lol

Just found your reply on my DIY thread. I replied as well!

Also there is a ballast resistor on the drivers side of the engine compartment (I think 88's had them?) It quiets down the pump and supposedly makes it last longer. I bypassed mine because it was broken down and the aftermarket one I bought made my pump not work right. But the Bosch pump can't even be heard when bypassed unless you have less than a half tank

Cruisers a good guy and will teach you wonders about these beautiful vehicles. I usually use photobucket but there was to many ads and my phone couldnt handle it. I just tried Imgur (hope it posted it) and I like it way more. Just copy the BB code and paste it! But in the picture the blue circles are around the little tabs I used to knock it loose. I used a multi head screwdriver handle without the head in it. Flat head screwdriver just seems iffy because it might knock the tab off. The arrow shows the direction to be hitting them. Counterclockwise and the image is from under the truck looking up. I climbed under the drivers side of the bed and took it. Changing a pump on these things is so easy... if you can get the ring off. Luckily mine came off no problem and I reused it. BTW the aftermarket lockring kit is crap. The lock ring doesnt fit and the gasket doesnt seal. Gotta fix mines gasket because of that. Just keep trying!!!

I did a Write up with pictures on installing that bosch pump in the sending unit. Its in the DIY forum. Very easy install and a very nice pump!