Knucklehead97

Found this on Facebook. Think it's a good price for a rear disk conversion? Was thinking about getting it just so I would have all the parts for the conversion other than the P-valve. And yes, I know this doesn't improve braking as much as the dual diaphragm upgrade. I plan to do both ASAP. Thanks!

He's lucky. I am in love with this build.

Someone posted this on an XJ facebook site I recently joined.... I personally think its gorgeous. I want to build one like this when I get through welding/fabrication school in the future. That low and wide stance... with a nice built engine under the hood.

Do those lights come in pairs or is the price per light? I was looking to get some soon.

The top one is the new block. The bottom is my current one. Theres only two differences that I can find. 1, is the new block actually DOES NOT offer a "flash to pass" option. The second is that the new block has this red wire coming out of the front and it actually has a plastic plug with a tab to remove it. I'm guessing that it is to add a fused power connection to an accessory? Because on the back the post beside it is connected to a post-strip powered from 1 big red wire. Otherwise everything seems to be the exact same! What do you guys think I should do about keeping my flash to pass option? Because I do enjoy having it. I may see if the terminals are still good on mine and just swap them over.

And oh boy, I hate being the guinea pig lol. But once I get the truck in and out of the shop I'll do the fuse block. I hope to find a way to use the extra fuse ports (if there are any) for my aftermarket fog lights.

I think the one that was in the Comanche before I changed it was a Luk heavy duty. It was a Luk, but I think the numbers were different.

that's exactly how I felt! I was expecting it to be here Monday!

Got a gun, solder, and practiced a bit. Also picked up this perfect Laredo fuse block from Cruiser! I'm guessing that I'm okay just cutting off the right piece and using the fuse block by itself, right? I'm going to clean the connector that is on my truck, just to be safe. And also since this is a Laredo fuse block but my original fuse block is a Pioneer, I'm guessing theres going to be a lot of extra wires?

Oh yeah, plenty of herky jerky. And the occasional spinning of tire in my mothers front yard... whoops.

Mine only had an 1/8" of pedal once it started grabbing. Horribly high. Thats the entire reason I changed it. And as far as I can tell it's fully engaging and disengaging. It doesn't seem to have trouble sitting still in gear with the clutch disengaged. And engaging seems correct. I just have to get used to an all new pedal feel now!

And thanks, guys! :D

Now here's a quick question, of course. I gravity bled about 3/4's of a quart of fluid through the clutch system just to make sure its done well. And my pedal is softer than it was? It isn't spongey or anything. Just easier to push in. And after the first half it gets easier to push in. Is all of this normal? Also my clutch releases wayyyy lower, It's pretty awesome so far :D

The clutch works! Gosh it starts off so smoothly now!!! I'm thrilled! Saved a bunch of money and gained so much knowledge changing it myself. Thanks for all the help, guys! Oh, and check out the bullbar I got a couple months ago. Been wanting one of them since I got the truck :D now just to do the fuse block and get it in a shop and I think I'll be good on drivability problems for now and can move on to upgrades!

Dorman 55810 is the lock ring and better o ring . It's listed for GM vehicles but it's the same . Any parts store should have it on hand . thats really good to know. Considering the kit the parts store gave me with the lockring and giant oring to seal up the sending unit didn't work at all. Having to reseal the sending unit soon and the lockring was destroyed trying to install it... luckily my old one was perfect condition and could be reused.

^^^ thats why I could not get mine from the top. Still have the charcoal canister and everything above it if I were to mount it horizontally. I really hate how much of a mess comes from it pointing vertically. I will probably try to make the horizontal way work after I relocate my charcoal canister. Just didn't sound good at the time I was changing my OFA Orings.

I threw around the idea of pointing mine towards the back like the HO's did. I even bought the parts for it. Decided against it though because I do enjoy being able to take mine off from the top. And it's awesome just being able to use a boxed in wrench on the Renix adapter. I do recommend taking the nipple off an HO adapter and installing it on your Renix adapter. I now run a Ford FL-A1 filter and am happy with it...

I've been sweating so bad about if its put in correctly lol, still gotta install the rest of the stuff (t-case, driveshafts, fluid, ect) but it should be back together next week. Then just to test the clutch out and have a buddy come pick it up to take to a shop with a renix scanner to get it running smooth! Then fuse block change. And all sorts of goodness to come :D

congrats on being the first to make that joke! :D

My carpets been pulled and I tried to bedline it a long time ago but did a crappy job sadly. Going to do a better job this time

Hey guys. Upon being under my Jeep for a long time changing the clutch I found that a small rust hole appeared in the passengers side floor board. Nothing serious, at all (1/4"). But the rest of both floorboards have bad surface rust. I have a water leak coming from all four corners and really don't have the time or money to deal with it right now so would I be an idiot to just drill a small (1/8") hole at the lowest point of both floorboards so it won't build water and re-bedline the sections that have gotten rust bad? I plan to get the leaks fixed ASAP. But would like to keep my floorboards from rusting anymore right now. Thanks!

Researched and figured it all out. Loctite was applied. Tranny is back in! Gonna reconnect everything else slowly as I come in from work in the mornings. Hoping everything goes as planned!

The clutch is in! Got the bolts torqued to 40 FT pounds. I did not use loctite, is that okay? And secondly before I put the transmission in... my pressure plate did not sit flush until I got the bolts all the way tightened. Is this normal? Don't want to have to pull the transmission again, so a quick reply would be very nice! It wasn't hard to tighten down at all. Until the last pull for the 40 pound mark. Just struck me odd that the plate didnt sit flush at first.

Luk is what I got. And also flywheel is in with Permatex blue on the bolts torqued to about 107 ft pounds (factory calls for 105 but I added a little bit on top for good measures,) now about to throw the pilot bearing in! Also my rear main is DEFINITELY the cause of my oil leak. Next project! Oh and just so yall know, flywheels hurt when they fall and land on your pinky finger!

Slave is installed. I pushed the retaining lockwasher on as far as I could. But the slave is still really wobbly on the shaft. Like it leans downward and lays on the shaft. Is this normal?