Knucklehead97

Did this a couple months ago when I was bored. One of the best and cheapest things I've done to the Jeep. After the bottle (found a 99 with almost brand new looking pumps) and a few feet of hose it cost me a total of 15$. I used a random 1 1/4" holesaw to make the filler neck hole, worked fine. Quick tip, if you use a holesaw then hold on to the drill GOOD. Once it catches good the drill will spin around and hit you... hard. Had a bruise on my jaw for a week. But it's amazing how much cleaner and open the engine compartment looks now. Also instead of weather pack connecters I found two of the same connectors at a junkyard and just spliced the connectors and used 2 females with 1 male so I could easily swap pumps if one burnt out :D

Cat/muffler got good flow through them? My truck did this when I got it and a piece of pipe and new muffler fixed it right up.

Should the orange wire have power as soon as the truck is running or will it have to warm up before it gets power, IF it gets power? Planning on checking this soon and was wondering. Since the orange wire actually heats up the sensor (from what I understand) it makes sense that it would be powered as soon as the truck is running.

It ran until it was completely warmed up if I remember correctly. 210 degrees. Probably about 15-20 minutes.

not yet, but I will next chance I get and will test the wire again. Will the O2 sensors voltage still fluctuate rapidly if the heater doesn't get the proper voltage? Because I remember testing the new 02 sensor when I replaced it and it fluctuated how it was supposed to.

I also tested the O2 sensor heater relay with the key ON engine OFF (as per the instructions I was sent through PM.) And the orange wire only had like .08V on it when it was supposed to have 12-14. The black wire had the 5 volts it was supposed to though. And the ground had less than an OHM. What should I do about that low voltage orange wire?

Update time! Cleaned the IAT and put it back in the stock place. While it was out I tested it using my lazer temperature gauge to estimate the temp on the tip. I.left it in the sun until it read a steady 100F and the OHM's were at about 1400. On the CTS I tested it once it got a little over the first line on the trucks gauge. I'm guessing around 130F. The ohms on the CTS were 675. I adjusted my TPS to .84 after the bored out TB swap. 17% of the supply voltage was .83725 so I rounded it out to .84. The truck runs no different. Other than the bored out TB giving a very crisp throttle response... also, new problem has occured. I thought it was a one time thing but its happened the last few times I've ran the truck. At idle it will run fine and then after a few seconds it will idle down real low and act like its going to stall out. During this situation the fuel pressure raises and once it catches itself and idles up the fuel pressure goes back to where it was. This happens 3 or 4 times per crank. Seems to stop once it runs for a certain period of time.

I don't believe it was a OEM. I know an OEM would work if used but the post was about how aftermarket ones are actually cheaper than the 4.0's aftermarket ones.

I'm a little confused, though. Wouldn't the exhaust manifold being under the intake manifold heat up the IAT in some way? Or does the intake manifold being aluminum (thats what it is, right? Looks like it...) somehow shield off the heat. I'm sure the air being sucked in somehow keeps a steady temp on the IAT as well, though. I've seen people move them to the intake tube itself or the airbox and I've wondered if it effects their performance in any way. I just hope I can figure this problem out, finally. For me and Dadinator.

Because theres no for sure way to know the intake air temp, correct?

If you don't mind me stealing your idea, that is, lol.

I freaking love it! That will look great in mine once I paint the interior and install my rubber floor. Finally an idea for a cheap headliner that I liked :D

I can't find either of them for sale anywhere. I'll get around to testing them ASAP. It makes sense that the CTS could be causing my little backfires considering my idle gets rougher as the temperature raises.

I will try both when I get the chance. Gotta adjust the TPS again sense I installed the bored out TB. I need to test the IAT while I'm at it. Where can I even purchase a CTS or IAT? Can't find them anywhere.

320 ohms was at like 210*. So could that be a problem?

I tested the ohms on the coolant sensor and got 320 ohms when warmed up. I THINK thats within spec. Not 100% sure though.

Worse for sure.

I cranked it up. Didn't let it warm up or anything. But it was... different. Seemed to have a stronger exhaust fume and when I pressed the throttle pedal it had a hesitation.

Dang! I'm to late to explain my love for my mothers '06 Liberty! :D

Trust me............ I just got my new throttle body installed so I might try tomorrow. Anything I should expect or be looking for while it runs without a TPS?

My truck had an intermittent starting problem for months. It was the starter. The solenoid clicked and everything but the starter motor itself was to wore out to crank the truck unless it was in a certain position. I don't know what turning the headlights on has to do with the truck shutting off. But, the starter is very easy to take off and take to an auto parts store to have tested just to rule that out of the cranking problem.

Mopar is what I should have gotten but I was trying to save a buck... I checked the resistance when all of tbis started and it was how it should be. Didn't fluctuate when I wiggled the wires, either. I've changed the entire fuel system. Pump, sending unit, regulator, injectors, and filter. The problem was happening before I changed the pump but I do need to check the line. I made sure it was tightened good when I installed it but who knows, stuff can.happen. And running with the TPS disconnected? You can do that? I didn't know it would run without.

CPS checked out perfectly. Even when warmed up and cooled off a little bit.

Has anyone ever had trouble with aftermarket Renix TPS's? When this problem with my Jeep started, the first thing I changed was the TPS. Because my factory one was failing. With the factory TPS the truck would try to stall out EVERY rev of the engine. So then I bought an Airtex one. The Airtex lasted a total of... 10 minutes. Would have to be adjusted every time I turned off the engine. Worked fine after adjusted. But as soon as the engine turned off it had to be adjusted again or the engine would stall after revved. Now, I have a Standard Motor Products one. Not the cheap "T" series, but the slightly more expensive Auto tranny one (my Jeep is a stickshift though). And now the Jeep will only stall out if warmed up, turned off for about 10 minutes, and cranked again. Then it only stalls the first time its revved. And I have a seemingly low idle with slight backfires when warmed up. I've checked and changed almost everything else on this Jeep that could cause this problem. And my mind just keeps going back to ANOTHER aftermarket TPS being faulty. But the TPS passes the test. It can be adjusted to the correct setting and everything. Has anyone ever had a problem with aftermarket TPS's? I know that aftermarket CPS's are a no no. What about the TPS? Thanks!

I would check the TPS. I have a stalling problem as well. TPS and MAP sensor. And when replacing the TPS (if it comes to that) try and find a MOPAR replacement. They're not bad priced on Ebay if you search hard enough. Have someone get you a part number if you can. The reason I say get a MOPAR one is because I had an Airtex and it lasted a total of 10 minutes. I currently have a Standard Motor Products one and I kinda have a gut feeling it is what my problem is. Just really don't want to buy ANOTHER TPS. Already changed my fuel regulator and O2 sensor twice...