Knucklehead97

What do you guys think? What all should I do to "rebuild" it? And whats the best fuel pump? I hears Bosch was, but whats the part number for it? Rockauto no longer.sells the Bosch so I was gonna order through Ebay. Thanks

I'm pretty sure the filter goes underneath the charcoal canister. Ive got the adapter off a HO and plan to do the swap soon. It cost me a total of $5 at the junkyard. My question is (not wanting to thread hijack) how the heck am I supposed to get a torx bit on it in there? At the junkyard I just took the engine halfway out. But on my truck it is TIGHT in there.

Now just the waiting game for that unit to get here :D

What all changed with seats of a newer year? Theres a few good sets of seats from newer XJ's and plenty of good ZJ ones around here but my fabrication skills suck right now.. I can't find any cheap older sets in half decent condition. Do the newer seat cushions bolt to the seat rails the same way the older ones do or did they change the bolt spacing and everything?

I just pull the whole harness out. I planned to take out the metal lines that lead down to the CAD. I just didn't want to cap anything that worked something important. If you pull the whole harness out then what do you cap? i want to get rid of as many useless components as possible to clear up engine compartment space.

Sorry to bring this back up. But which color vacuum lines do I need to cap off for the CAD elimination? Do I need to cap off the one to the Tcase (red) or just the ones to the CAD?(green and yellow)

Can't smell any. And I've got a "new" sending unit on the way to put in after I clean it up some. May drop the new unit in after checking for leaks on it and see if it has better pressure or anything. Still will check my old one though.

A leak can. But I've checked everywhere for leaks. That's the only other thing I can see causing less pressure.

Whoops. Sorry. Just found the location. Lol

Theres no location on that topic, from what I can tell? I would love to get the cluster console and seats, 200$ is a bit steep for me right now though.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=400498514939&alt=web The adapter. The gauge is listed in Hornbrods write up which he posted a link to above

12$ shipped for the adapter off Ebay and $25 for the gauge shipped. Plus 1$ for teflon tape. Worth every bit. And I've already changed regulator and filter so all thats left is the pump. The gauge is a tight fit with the vacuum harness but its not hard at all to make work.

And update time! Got my fuel pressure gauge on. And I LOVE it. Best mod I've done, right after my Volvo injectors. Dadinator I highly recommend you do it. But anyways. The fuel pressure was at 30 with the key ON and truck off. At first while running it was at 29 with vacuum and 39 without. No stalling and truck didn't have a rough idle. But after letting the truck run for a bit I noticed that the fuel pressure got lower and lower and the gauge fluctuated more and more as the idle got lower and lower and the tachometer started fluctuating. The pressure got as low as 24 psi just at idle, and fluctuated a bunch. Then I cut the truck off so it could cool down for a bit and I cranked it again to test the stalling (because it only stalls if I let the truck cool down for a few minutes) when I cranked it back up the pressure and idle were both low, still. And both fluctuated like I expected. When I revved the engine the fuel pressure shot down to around 20 and when I let off the throttle the truck tried to stall and the fuel pressure was shooting between 22 and 24 while it was trying to stall. I kept the truck alive and it continued to idle low and all that. With the truck off the fuel pressure depleted itself within 10 minutes. What are ya'll thinking?

Shipping would kill me for the seats, sadly.

I'll try and beat out that big dent to mount the flare sometime. Save the rest for later this year when I hopefully start painting. Thanks guys :D

Chance of finding a good used fender around here is little to none. I also currently can't weld. Probably will have some fun with a rubber hammer sometime, if thats whats recommended to do in order to halfway fix it.

Posting the IMG link from photobucket just in the normal reply section worked perfectly.

Didn't have it at advance. Gonna oreillys sometime. They do have a assortment pack of fuel proof Orings though, any chance the right size is in that pack?

Any tips on it?:D

I've got this body damage right on my rear flare. Its from the previous owner. Do yall think this is fixable or will I have to cut and weld a new panel one day? I've got a "new" flare that I want to put on but the damage probably will prevent it from mounting correctly. don't want it perfect yet, just want to be able to mount the flare. Thanks.

Ill check tomorrow. Great working next door to a Advance Auto. Now just to find a Bosch pump for under 100$. Rockauto no longer carries them.

Great. Got a parts number? No Napa in town... think Advance or Oreillys may carry them?

I'm about to be getting a fuel sending unit off of another member. It reads properly and the fuel pump runs. I want to rebuild this thing as much as I can. As in putting a new fuel pump and strainer in it, and changing the oring on the electrical connecter. My question is, how hard is that oring to change? And whats the part number on it? Also its got a good bit of surface rust on the outside, can I just sand it all off and spray paint it? Thanks.

I'm looking for a set of grey or black bucket seats. Can be from a 2 or 4 door Cherokee or a Comanche. Cherokee years need to be anywhere from 87-94. Manual seats with the straight rails.