Knucklehead97

After reading 100% through your rough idle topic. I noticed 2 things. 1, my positive cable that goes from the battery to the relay center (or whatever its called...) is VERY small compared to yours. Mine looks to be around a 14 gauge wire. Could the size effect the way the sensors work? Like I said I have big cables to install, I just haven't installed the positives yet. And 2, my air bleed screw is very far out compared to yours. I mean it's maybe 1/8" away from the edge while yours is far inside the tunnel.

I forgot to add that I tested the CPS and the truck starts right back up with no problem. So I doubt it being the CPS. The problem is really weird. I went out and started revving my truck, shutting it off, and revving it again. And today it just wasn't stalling out as much. It tried to stall maybe twice out of multiple revs. The idles still crazy... But wasn't stalling. I'm almost positive it has something to do with the TPS in some way. Whether it be connection or the adjustment itself. Is there a electrical manual on the internet which could tell me the where the grounds and all that are? Maybe I should mess with the air bypass screw on the throttle body (the one that fixed your problem) Yet again any help is appreciated and your thread has been very informative :thumbsup:

I've been annoying Cruiser for about 3 months trying to figure out what my trucks problem is. I've decided that I would post a topic on it and get more opinions as I am completely stumped and aggravated with the thing. The problem is that when I rev the engine it tries to kill itself and even when I push the gas a little bit to keep it alive, once I let off again it tries to die again. Also I have mini backfire "poofs" out the exhaust once the truck warms up. When the truck warms up my idle is VERY low and fluctuates A LOT. Here is a list of everything I've done. Changed to Volvo injectors. Changed EGR. Tried a different IAC valve Changed sparkplugs. Changed cap and rotor. Checked the timing. Cleaned throttle body and set the butterfly set screw per Cruisers instructions. Changed MAP hose. Changed O2 sensor. I don't have a cat so the exhaust isn't clogged (new Thrush Welded muffler) Upgraded and refreshed grounds. All negative cables (and soon to be positive cables too) are 1 AWG welding cables. Sprayed carburetor cleaner EVERYwhere and haven't found a single vacuum leak. Snugged up exhaust/intake manifold bolts. I have tested the MAP and made sure it was to spec. And most recently... the TPS was changed. I replaced the TPS earlier today and the problem was fixed!... The first time I cranked the truck. Thats what has me stumped. The first time I crank the truck after adjusting the TPS it runs GREAT. Doesn't stall out at all. (still has a low idle though) but as soon as I shut the truck off and crank it again it runs like crap until I mess with the TPS again. It's like the computer isn't remembering that the TPS is set correctly until I set it again. But the Renix computer doesn't hold information, does it? I have backprobed the TPS plug after revving the engine a few times and it NEVER returns back to where I had it adjusted. It usually is about .95-.102v when it's supposed to be .83. ANY help is appreciated guys. I just really need to get my truck going asap.

Here in Attalla we got a few hours of heavy rain. No power outage though. Satellite was non-existant

Yeah I used one of them at Fastenal and it didn't fit good in any of them :yes: I managed to research and find that Rockauto sells a TPS made by Standard Motor products and from what I hear they're basically BWD. And from a Youtube video I watched it says that the sensor comes with mounting hardware. Hopefully won't have to worry about purchasing any hardware now but if I do at least I know the technical size. Thanks guys :thumbsup: P.S I did not order the "T" series that Rock Auto offered. I hear that they're not worth the cheaper price.

And the lengths can be found out by bringing my old bolts with me. But thanks for rhe offer man.

If fastenal isn't good then where should I get the bolts from? Ace hardware?

Since I've been making my own copper lugs for 1 AWG battery cables I found out that it's hard to hold onto the lug when drilling the hole. So I came up with this ugly wooden contraption :yes: works really well, actually.

I've been chasing down a stalling out issue and have found out that its the TPS. But after a few adjustments of my old one the bolt heads have stripped out. I ordered a WELLS/AIRTEX sensor from Rockauto and it came with the mounting hardware (but the sensor was VERY cheaply made and I had to send it back due to it not holding adjustment) now I've been looking at the BWD ones from Advance because I've heard BWD actually makes a good product and I messed with one in store earlier and it was made 10X better than the one I got from Rockauto. But the BWD doesn't come with the mounting hardware and I can't find anywhere that sells the mounting hardware. I've already checked at all the Fastenal's in my town and none of them have even seen the size that the bolts are for the TPS. Am I going to have to go all the way to Chrysler and spend a buttload of money just for a couple of replacement bolts? I checked at my local junkyards and none of their Renix era Jeeps have the engines left in them.

Sounds EXACTLY like what my truck did when the MAP sensor line melted itself shut. Its the sensor on drivers side firewall with a green plug. The line goes into the side of the throttle body. But yes, also do Cruisers tips as they are VERY helpful.

Same radiator I recently bought and swapped in. I love it and recommend it highly! Also great write up dude, wish I had done one on this :thumbsup:

Not trying to thread hijack at all (which by the way vfb that red one is very attractive) But do you or 2toneComanche remember where you got that grill guard? I seriously want one as soon as I get my truck back on the road :thumbsup:

I want that grill guard :drool:

I'm looking for a working IAC for a Renix 4.0. I'd like to get one for as cheap as possible just simply because I'm not 100% sure if it's causing the problem in my truck. Doesn't matter how old as long as you know it works. PM me if you may have one or know someone that does. Thanks guys :thumbsup:

Programbo gave me a full set of 746's for 70$ shipped. Honestly didn't expect how much of a difference the injectors would make. Best purchase I've made for the truck so far and I highly recommend going with them :thumbsup:

I just did the open cooling system swap and I have to say I'm more than pleased with it. It only cost me about $150 to swap everything except the water pump and my truck runs at the right temps (Have only had it idling. Haven't taken it on the road due to stalling out issues. At idle on a 90-100 degree day it takes 15 minutes to turn on the fan.) Also I got an aftermarket radiator that had the AUX fan switch bung on it so there is no need to rewire the AUX fan. It only took about 3 hours and I did it alone with no problem :thumbsup:

Found this video during my midnight Youtube searching. (If the link doesn't work then simply search Copper Lugs on Youtube)Thought anyone looking to do any heavy duty wiring (personally I'm close to doing 1AWG battery cables...) would love this. Jeep on :thumbsup:

I read through it. I can't even find TJ's in the only junkyard near me. Theres maybe 10 Jeeps there at a time and most are Grand Cherokees. Otherwise 4-door XJ's :dunno: I hate it.

If you do it again soon then please post how you did it! I think the option to use 4 door seats while still being able to get behind the seats easily will make bucket conversions much easier and cheaper for us that lack junkyards :thumbsup: My pastor at church has a 4 door for parts (already got a full gauge cluster and perfect front bumper for free off of him) I may be able to get the seats out of it for cheap if not also free. If I do then I will try to figure out what to grind off and I'll post a write up on it. The seats are torn up but I'll go get some cloth and foam off of some seats out of a junkyard and refurbish them while I'm at it :yes: How do I post pictures on this forum? I completely forgot how to.

These are so much easier to come by than 2 door seats or Comanche seats. But they simply don't lean forward enough... Has anyone ever thought to figure out what stops them from leaning forward and just well... grind it off? Is it possible? :dunno: It'd make bucket conversions a lot easier. For me, that is.

May be a stupid question to ask. But does any one know where I could get one of those rubber floor covers he got? I know his was from a pull a part (lucky!) But I would love to have one if anyone knows who makes and sells them. Otherwise great looking truck and cheers to someone else whose Manche rolled down a hill due to parking brake cables :yes:

Ordering the radiator now and soon to be checking out the heater hose as well. Hoping to make it to a junkyard soon as well. Thanks guys :thumbsup:

Is there a problem with purchasing it off of Amazon? I mean I have no problems with their shipping being around 5 days usually, I'm in no hurry as my Volvo injectors still have to arrive. The seller, I believe, is Spectra Premiums Amazon dealer so the warranty is 24 month. I also already have an Amazon account. As for the CSF, is there anything better about it than the Spectra? Thanks.

I searched for that radiator on Advance Auto and what came up was a closed system radiator. I'm trying to convert to an open system :thumbsup: But I have never heard of those coupon codes before. I think I'm bookmarking that website lol. And to the CSF radiator, it says the core depth is 1 1/6" instead of the 1 1/4" that I've always seen otherwise :dunno: How about this one though? http://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-CU1193-Complete-Radiator/dp/B000C7S062/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0M5WF3ZF9FVS7162HB39#productDetails It has really good reviews it seems and is that a quality radiator manufacturer? I know I've heard of Spectra before. Thanks guys. Just wanting to do this right :yes:

Hey guys. I'm fixing to swap from a closed to open cooling system and I found this 2 row radiator on Ebay for a good deal. I wanted you guys opinions on it before purchase. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Row-BRAND-NEW-Aluminum-Radiator-Jeep-Cherokee-Comanche-2-5-4-0-/170857355687?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AJeep%7CModel%3ACherokee&hash=item27c7e459a7&vxp=mtr The reason I have went to Ebay is because I'm on a budget, but would still like good quality products. I have about $130 for the swap and that's including the price of the overflow bottle, hoses, and I'd love to also get a curved blade fan to go with it. I just want my truck to be able to run without spewing fluid everywhere or melting a MAP hose. Thanks