Knucklehead97

It's kinda thick. I would have a little bit more air flow through it than with the vacuum lines ive used. I measure the OD with a caliper and it's exactly 3/16". I'm probably going to force it on if this new line I got melts. So far so good though :thumbsup:

I bought some 3/16" Aluminum tubing but it wouldn't fit in the throttle bodies port, how did you manage getting it in there?

It wasn't the original line. I had to swap to some cheap emissions line from oreillys. The first time it melted it was some decently strong tubing BUT It was laying on the intake manifolds heat shield which I didn't think was actually supposed to be that hot. I've checked all temps and none got higher than overheating temps. At all. The most recent line that melted was RIDICULOUSLY cheap. As in you could see through the walls of the tubing. I got some line from a junkyard (checked for leaks, none appeared.) and it seems to be working good, except I'm having some miniature backfires and a kinda rough idle.

I found some 1/8" Aluminum tubing. But the inner diameter seems to be about half the size of the emission lines inner diameter. Will the truck still run good with a smaller inner diameter line? I had read something about how a bigger line would make the engine take longer to respond because airflow would take longer to pressurize. I would just like to make sure this line will work okay before I fit it in there with a gasket maker. Thanks.

Have you checked your catylitic converter? (sorry if thats spelled wrong) when I got my truck it did that and it ended up being because of the convertor being broken and not allowing air flow, thus making it stall when there isnt something forcing it to breath.

Wow I never thought about that... But will 1/8" copper bend how I need it to without crimping itself? I'm also considering putting in hood vents soon to help with the heat under the hood, what are the good options of hood vents and are there any sensors that need to be watched for to make sure rain won't ruin them? Thanks

Time for an update. I got some more vacuum line just so I could run it away from anything that would be to hot... and well, this time the line melted itself in half, at 110 degrees! I just had the truck idling for 30 minutes and revved it up a few times and it got nice and warm. I checked temp and it was 150 where Eagle told me to point the laser. it was 160 on the front of the head, and I had 150 on the intake manifold heat shield. I figure its not running hot... but what can I do about my MAP sensor line? It wasnt touching anything and melted straight in half! I even made sure to check and it was Dorman brand Vacu-lite heat resistant emissions line. I would prefer it not burn itself in half while I was going down the road, so what are my options? Thanks.

Hey guys. Yesterday I was driving a good bit on the interstate and my truck got so hot that it melted the Map sensor line where it curved to go into the throttle body (luckily had enough line in my toolbox to make another. ) I think it was laying on the intake manifold heat shield and thats why it melted it. Before I found the map line, I thought it was overheating because I don't have a temp gauge and it's always really warm in the engine compartment. I opened the pressure bottle and well... it had a lot of pressure in there which I figured was normal. But my antifreeze/water was really really dirty and seemed low? My electric fan also never turns on. After driving my truck for about 30 minutes I can't touch the valve cover for more than a couple seconds without it burning me. I have a laser temp gauge sitting around that my dad used for work and it tests up to 1000 degrees. Where could I point the laser to test how hot the engine is running? And how can I change the antifreeze/water to make sure it has what it needs in there? And for the fan not working, how is that fixable? Also please note I haven't changed the thermostat. Thanks.

Would your XJ crank itself though? The starter runs. I would think the starter would need more power than the idle

What should I do? Take it out and mess with it? Also which sensor is it? I'm not familiar with HO's sensor placement.

Hello all. Been awhile since I've posted, but a couple weeks ago my brothers XJ just... well... wouldn't idle. He was trying to move it to put a for sale sign on it (got tired of dealing with death wobble) but when he cranked it it wouldn't idle. He had to press the gas peddle for it to even make a sound. And after he let off it just immediately died. Seems to have good air flow, no fuel leaks, and good spark plugs. Sensor on the throttle body? Thanks. Oh to anyone that might wonder, finally got the fuel injectors permanently sealed sealed on my MJ. I drove it today and it did great

Went out to put on the throttle cable today after I fixed it. Smelled gas again and guess where it was coming from? The 1st fuel injector. I'm so mad right now I can't believe that I'm back to square one. I just wish a part could work for me. We had a cold front this weekend and went down to about 9 degrees, so I guess that screwed me over. I'm going to take a set of orings off the worthless injectors ai bought and try putting them on it. I just hope this doesn't mess up the 10$ I spent on the quick disconnect orings. I'm starting to think that the injector itself is leaking, but I can't tell. Its not leaking easily enough to hear, but you can smell and see it running down the injector.

The gasket thats already on it is a blue rubber one but I think the PO just put it on wrong because he didnt seem to bright. I planned to not use a cork one just because they're terrible in the long run.

Well the injector swap turned into wasting about 100$ on injectors that are now just going to sit in my room for no reason. Because they made the engine run rough and I had to just put back in the old ones with new orings. the oil leak, and water/air leak around the windshield are the next thing. And the exhaust leak just cause it will be decently simple to fix I think. I'm almost positive that what I thought was the RMS leaking is actually the valve cover because its wet with oil around the back of it and i think I saw a couple cracks in the seal. I will be following Cruisers instructions to track down the leak as soon as I can. I'm assuming a valve cover gasket change is much much easier to do than a RMS?

Got it all sealed. Cranked right up and runs great other than the oil leak I already had and a exhaust leak I already had. Havent drove it thanks to the first throttle cable I got breaking on installation. I'm getting a throttle cable ASAP and hopefully driving it :D

The box says that the 5/16" orings are 1/4" ID and 3/8" OD. And that the 3/8" orings are 5/16" ID and 7/16" OD. Is that what they should be? I thought the 5/16" Orings would be 5/16" ID.

I picked up fuel rated orings. They're brown and say on the box that they can be used on quick disconnect fuel lines. The pack came with 2 3/8" orings and 2 5/16" orings.

The only napa nearby closed, sadly.

Oreillys doesnt keep them in stock. So they were going to charge 9 dollars for shipping. I bought a pack of assorted orings that looked like they would work, but ended up breaking one of the orings pushing the line in the regulator. I'm going to get a pack of 5/16 orings from the other oreillys (the one I went to today didnt have the pack) and hopefully they will work. Do ya'll think I can reuse the spacer between the orings? Also, do I slide the orings and spacer on the fuel line and then push it in the regulator? Or is there some other way to do it?

of course the napa store here closed a couple months ago. So I guess I have to go to a dealer and get a repair kit? Should I get the 3/8 or 5/16? Oreillys was trying to charge me 10$ for the orings alone and they didnt look the same. AND YXMJ, I'm figuring I just didnt push the injectors in and seat them properly. And the ohms resistance was so differemt I'm figuring the newer injectors just were dumping to much fuel. They're Ford injectors.

So advance auto, and oreillys both didnt even have a fuel pressure regulator oring listed in their stock... help?

At least it runs, for now! And yes these are the original injectors.

I went out there and pressed a couple vac lines, blew into some plugs, and tapped some sensors. Cranked it up and hey! It sounds fine! i also found the hissing sound, it was the fuel line oring where it goes into the regulator. But I'm just so happy it sounds fine. Sounds good when I increase RPMs too

thats basically just doing an alignment, right? Turning the tie-rd and all that? And its a little funny that the DW started not to long after he got a set of used tires. But it sometimes will just run right. And I was driving the truck myself, this was absolutely HECTIC on the front end until I got down to 5 mph. It was uncontrollable. I drove my truck for months with bad tire shimmy, so I decently know the difference :D

I smushed and twisted the injectors a good bit. And they sealed :D but for a couple seconds after turning on the fuel pump to check if they sealed, i cpuld hear a slight hissing noise and a scent of gas. But I couldn't find from where! And it's still running rough, and after about 10 seconds it just goes crazy still. I noticed my IAC plug is kinda... shattered. But its still pluged in fine it seems. (Note I didnt change spark plugs, yet. Thats next if I have the money)