Knucklehead97

Can I just take a HO filter adapter off a Cherokee in a junkyard and buy the Orings and do this? Really wanting to do this so I can easily change my motor mounts and my orings need to be changed anyways.

Says '90 in his sig.

this is the EXACT problem I've been dealing with for the past few months. Definetely following this. I've changed literally almost everything.

Update finally! Regulator and filter are both on and neither leak from what I can tell. I couldn't start the truck because I need to get a smaller elbow for the vacuum line connection on the regulator. Old one was way to big. The fuel pump is loud. I've recently (since upgrading my positive cables) noticed it being much louder than it used to. But if I leave the key off for more than 10 seconds then the fuel pump runs again when I turn the key to ON. Is there any test for the fuel pump to tell if it's not working correctly? I can't find a leak ANY where. Not even on the sending unit where I had to fix a leak with Quik Steel last summer. If I have to change the fuel pump then I'm going to be looking for a good sending unit because my gas gauge doesn't work and I want to go ahead and fix it if I can while I have the fuelpump/sending unit assembly out.

Hello to all. Just wanted to stop in and thank you all for everything. I was asked the other day what I was thankful for and Comancheclub came up on my list because I honestly have got no idea where my Jeep would be right now if it wasn't for yall. Yeah it's sitting in my yard still waiting for rain and work to allow me to show it some love. But it wouldn't be as close to running again as it is now if it wasn't for the support of this fantastic forum. I wouldn't even have my dream truck right now if I hadn't posted on here asking for reasons why I should get one. Every single person on here deserves a thank you. Whether you're a skilled Jeep mechanic taking the time out of your day to help out people or just a teenager like me wanting to learn and keep one of these fantastic trucks alive. You all and your MJ's truly are inspirations for me and my MJ and I hope to one day be wise enough with the mechanics behind these things to help other people with theirs. :thumbsup: Cheers to all of you and happy holidays :yes: Thanks once again! Knucklehead.

Luckily the regulator came with all the Orings. The one for the fuel rail and the two for the line (and the spacer!). I've been waiting for a clear day to swap everything in. I'm highly considering again sending back this TPS and ordering one of the MOPAR ones once I get my paycheck Tuesday... There is just SOMETHING that bugs me about the fact that the new TPS mostly fixed the problem and there has been reports of aftermarket TPS's not being as good as OE. Just something thats been burning in the back of my mind.

Thanks again :yes: Standard Motor Products Regulator and a Wix filter is on the way. Does a dealer sell the 2 O rings that go on the quick disconnect fuel line in the regulator? I can get them 2 for 10$ from Advance but I mean 10$ for 2 Orings is ridiculous...

Almost any local auto store sells the Thrush Welded and Turbo in store for about $40. I bought one last summer and cheaply threw it on and I love the sound. All of my friends have big V8's with loud exhausts but my MJ sounds just as good :thumbsup: People think that I have a V8 as well :yes:

Well thank you, sir :thumbsup: quick update is that I've gotten no progress at all done on the truck, sadly. I've got to order a fuel pressure regulator and get a filter to swap in but just haven't gotten the time between church and interviews/training for a job. Progress on every aspect of my truck should soon pickup as I finally got a weekly paying job and don't have to cut corners as much hopefully. Can I replace the regulator without removing the fuel rail?

Its the original regulator. Very possible it needs to be changed. Along with everything else, it seems lol

The vacuum line smells strongly of gas, actually.

Is it supposed to have to be running to even show on the pressure gauge? Because mine showed zero no matter how many times I set the key to ON. But when I cranked the truck it had 28 PSI with vacuum and 36 with no vacuum. Showing about 3-4 PSI low. Immediately when I shut the truck off the gauge went back down to 0. As far as I can tell, my fuel pressure regulator is working properly. But something in the fuel system seems weak or clogged, right?

Got a fuel pressure gauge and plan to run the tests tomorrow morning. I know it needs 31 with the key ON and the regulator connected and 40 with the regulator disconnected. But how will disconnecting the regulator change anything if the engine isn't running and providing vacuum? What PSI's should I looking for while the engine is idling? And lastly how do I check to make sure the regulator is operating correctly? Lot's of questions, I know. But slowly chipping off the possibilities. Thanks.

Can they both cause these problems? Also what about the actual computer in the truck, do you think it could be bad and causing this?

Oh and the vacuum line was clogged by being melted in one of the elbows. I changed the line with some aluminum tubing.

MAP sensor is on and reading correctly. Helped the fluctuation a little bit but didn't change anything else. I also found out that my fuel pressure regulator vacuum line was clogged... No vacuum. I fixed that and it didn't change anything really. Still stalls out some, fluctuates, and is a really low idle. I've changed just about every sensor on this dang thing. I'm starting to think this is a fuel problem but it really doesn't seem likely. Could the CTS have anything to do with this? It's basically the only sensor I haven't changed. I'm going to continue cleaning electrical connectors when it stops raining tomorrow and I'm going to grab a fuel pressure gauge. What else do I need to do?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=40694&cc=1181674 What do you guys think about this MAP sensor? It's Standard Motor Products good series (not the cheap T series) and it's a wholesaler closeout so they're only 21$!

Sealing the line better helped the idle a little bit, not much though. All other problems still persist. I decided to test my MAP and O2 sensor again to be sure, the new O2 sensor works perfectly. But the MAP sensor seems to be failing. It has the correct voltage with the engine off and key ON. But when the trucks temperature is at 190-200 degrees (the test says use a HOT idling engine) It stays from 1.4-1.5 volts and SOMETIMES goes up to 1.6. Also is the MAP's volts supposed to go up or down when you rev the engine? Because when I revved the engine the voltage went down below 1 volt. I expected them to go up.

The line that goes from the manifold in front of the TB and connects at the fuel regulator on the end of the fuel rail? Thats the exact line I found pushed out a little bit and thought might be the problem. As soon as I get the time I'm going to add some sealant to it to keep the line sealed and see if the truck runs right now. Glad to hear that a theory I had could be the fix :thumbsup:

Possibly the MAP sensor? My MAP line melted shut one time and I couldn't get past 2500 either. Just I had literally NO torque. Maybe the lines not completely shut, but enough to cause a problem.

^ I appreciate the links :thumbsup: I'm not purchasing ANOTHER TPS just yet. I tinkered earlier but didn't get around to loosening the TPS. I added my big positive cables and cleaned all connections on the distribution block, then turned the key to ON (didn't crank cause I didn't have time to let it idle.) and wow... the fuel pump kinda sounds more lively. Possibly wasn't getting enough power at times? Long shot but maybe. Also found that the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line had slid out a little bit and MAYBE had a vacuum leak from it. Possibly the pressure being 40 PSI when disconnected instead of the 31 when it's connected made the truck have mini backfires and low idle? Both long shots. But slightly make sense in MY mind. The connections on the distribution block were extremely corroded... Also I have no idea how the 14 gauge wire going to it was giving anything enough power to operate properly before the alternator kicked in. Hoping to tinker more after work and before church tomorrow. I'll keep ya'll updated. Oh and Hornbrod... I'd be having as much fun as Cruiser if this wasn't my truck :yes: I'm hanging in there though. Can't even begin to imagine giving up on my dream truck.

PC307? Thats a CPS according to Rock Auto. I've bought all TPS options from Rockauto for the Auto trans. The only Standard trans one they have is made by the same company that made the auto one I have currently. Another weird update, though. Sprayed the TPS lever with some WD40 and it's not sticking nearly as much, hardly is really. And the truck only tries to stall on the first rev of every start. Otherwise seems to do good. Still low idle/backfires and all that too though. It's just really crazy the fact that it's only doing it on the first rev for some reason.

Well $60 didn't sound bad. But the $120-$172 that Mopars website says, does sound bad. If I send this sensor back then that'll be almost $30 just in the shipping for the two TPS's I've bought being sent here and sent back. Does no where sell Mopar brand for less? I honestly can't even afford the sensor for another few weeks at least...

First off, here's where my idle is. Super low, right? And it sometimes goes even lower. And secondly here's the real update and possibly the cause of my problems... Isn't that bottom lever supposed to be touching the top one? Yes, yes it is. Ends up when I only rev to around 2500 and hold it for a bit the spring inside the TPS doesn't have enough unf to put it back to .83. When the lever was like this my voltmeter was reading about .300 which is so high an A/F ratio that it kills the engine upon letting off the gas pedal. Or at least thats what I THINK is going on. Do I REALLY have to go to MOPAR and spend like $60+ on an OE TPS? I thought Standard Motor Products were supposed to be good quality, or at least thats what everyone was telling me. And lastly I screwed the air bleed screw all the way in and backed it out a little bit. Didn't really change anything. Let me know what you guys think on this. Thanks.

The cap was already off before I even knew the bleed screw existed. So I'm guessing the previous owner had messed with it. And yes, I did number 5 and the ohms did not flucuate at all and were almost 0.