Knucklehead97

I agree with the above. I LOVE my Euramatec lights. I got the LED ones and they're plenty bright for me.

I'm going to watch that tomorrow at work when I have wifi haha. Building a fast 4 cylinder Manche sounds fun... in all honesty though, to get as much speed and acceleration as possible, would the 2.5 or the 4.0 be better? I've always wondered.

Sheesh. I never would have expected it to be a 2.5. I need to do some video watching on Comanche race trucks haha.

What all was done to this truck to make it autocross ready? I plan to one day build an autocross MJ. But haven't heard of this one... is it still a 4.0?

On my 4×4 MJ I can (and have) changed the fuel pump in 30 minutes flat. Right on the side of the tank and very easy to get to. Unless it's a 2wd. My 2wd's driveshaft is so freaking big compared to the 4×4 one so it would take longer.

235×75's on stock 2wd height.

Some Nissan hardbody's came with 14" rims and I believe my sisters Ford Escape (decent sized v6 SUV) has 14" rims.

That was for all four front arms. I'm changing to all four WJ arms up front. Makes the ride much smoother from what I hear. Just requires a little more persuasion to fit.

I had looked into buying new arms before I bought the junkyard ones and Moog arms were about 250$ for the whole set. For bushings and arms I spent about 100$

On my 2wd axle I just used a nut that was about the width of the space between the two sides of the mount, didn't bend at all thanks to that. On the arms I didn't really have any bending problems at all.

Hey guys. While rebuilding my front end/upgrading to a newer 2wd axle I decided to rebuild these WJ control arms I got a while ago. I didn't want to spend the money on the new Moog arms so I got some from a local part out and changed the bushings. I would first off like to say this is really just covering how I changed the oval bushing because it was an often asked question with no answer I could find when searching. But I will add all the part numbers for the bushings as well. The way I did this is no ideal at all, but I used what I had on hand and well... the bushings are changed. In my honest opinion, next time, I will just buy new arms. Changing these bushings was an absolute pain. The part numbers are OMIX-ADA 1828306 for the lower control arm round bushing (I recommend shaving off a little bit of the taper. The bushing is SLIGHTLY too big) you will need two of these. MOOG K3128 for the upper arms bushing. You will only need one of these if you're just doing the arms bushings. They're packed in pairs. http://www.ebay.com/itm/281477109102 For the oval bushing use that. You will need two. Now for changing the small Moog bushing it was super easy. Just use a ball joint press and boom you're done. The others? Well... with all of the adapters you need the press is too small to hold them all in the "C". So I had to get creative. Remember on the oval bushing you leave some overhang on both sides, don't press it flush. That is a 2×4 with a hole drilled out of it so the bushing will sit flat on the wood instead of pressing against the bolt hole which sticks out about a 1/2". With a 3" PVC pipe with a notch carved out for the ovalness of the bushing. And that big piece of metal? That's my Jeeps Tcase skid. It was a rugged process, could have easily been done with a hydraulic press and metal piping instead of PVC, but I had neither. If you're just a regular Joe like myself then here you go. Best of luck!

Not wanting to hijack but how much on a stock 2wd would be needed to level it out? I can't stand how low the front sits on mine.

I changed the fuse and my passenger reverse light works! Thanks! The other ones bulb is blown, easy enough fix. Ends up there were quite a few blown fuses on this Jeep.

I now regret not buying one of the 5$ NSS's when Rockauto had them mis-priced. But at least you can clean NSS's! I doubt I will ever tow a trailer big enough to have trailer brakes so I think that a 4 prong connector will be good. 6×12 is going to be the biggest this Jeep will haul most likely. Definitely will be upgrading the MC/booster and deleting the rear sensing valve eventually since I will be towing some. I've just got to find time to mess with the trailer wiring... if I get the trailer. Going Saturday if he hasn't already sold it.

I'm looking at buying a 6×12 single axle trailer from a guy for a really good price. But my Jeeps trailer wiring was done terribly and I'm sure it doesn't work. How do I splice this all in? It's just a 4 prong flat connector. Also... my reverse lights don't work at all, anybody know a possibility of why?

or just use the MJ drag link as they are the same in strength from what I've heard. I just ordered all new steering parts and I went with a ZJ tierod set up with MJ drag link.

Bolts right on. perfect! More things to spend money on! I've only spent about 400$ on the front end rebuild... so another 50$ won't hurt, right? :D

Is there a write up for swapping one in? How much work is involved in it? It would literally complete my front end rebuild/upgrade if I were to get a 28mm

Are the Moog K3128 bushings the right ones for the WJ upper control arms bushing as well? I compared sizes and researched and they seem to be but I'm not sure as other people have said that K1366 is the part number for the upper arms bushing. The k3128 is much cheaper is why I ask.

ordered for my front end rebuild. Thanks! :D

So crazy thing. Get off work today and decide to try my sub again (had it turned off through my headunit) Now it works perfectly. Even better than it was before it started messing up. It's hitting way harder and deeper than before. Maybe it's cause I retuned it since I messed with the gain trying to get it to stop messing up, who knows. I'll still be waiting for it to mess up again, though. So I can diagnos it further. Crazy...

Oh and in case it could help narrow things down. It was raining when this all happened.

NOW you tell me. :fs1: I had to hack up a pipe coupling to fab the spacer - PITA. that's why before hacking you should try random engine parts that most people don't have laying around :D

That^^^^^^^^^ Nah, more likely it's just a bad connection. Make sure everything is tight, wiggle wires while trying it and see if anything produces a noticeable difference. If there's any options to safely swap channels/inputs/outputs around, do so. Measure the voltage at the amp under load to rule out issues there. Clean up any ground connections and check the integrity of them. Failing that I'd say the amp is a pile of junk; welcome to the reality of mass produced consumer electronics. luckily I got a 2-year warranty on the whole thing in case this happened. I'm going to do as you said and probably grab an MP3 hookup to RCA adapter to rule out the rca cables being bad.

And for the WJ uppers I believe that you have to trim the bushing and then take off a small sliver of metal on the frame. Not the actual control arm bucket, though, I don't think. Unless you're lifted a certain amount. I mainly was wondering if WJ arms were too long for a stock setup as I have heard they correct some angle well on a 2" lift (caster angle maybe?)