BIGMASS

I just went from BA-10 to AX-15 and the speedo gear and cable adapter will swap in place of the electric sending unit. When I did mine I just took the clutch MC, line and slave as a unit from the parts truck to my truck. Had to drill the hole in the rod bigger to fit the pin on the pedal (7/16 i think) and it worked great

I got 42 3/8, but I am measuring under the pumpkin. You could always measure from spring eye to spring eye on the rear where you can get a straight shot with the tape.

When I did mine I put it all together hanging from the springs and then centred the axle so I could set pinion angle before I welded the perches in. But my old axle is sitting in the driveway and I'll measure when I take the dog out...if I ever get dressed today!

If you are bent on keeping the valve, go to the junk yard and pull one from an old Cordoba. They are all metal and when the valve is open it is all the way open. But I still ditched mine altogether.

There are some good ideas in this thread about dropping a manche. Also erebuni used to make the same kit, but now only has the side skirts available.

I'm running the HO injectors with the Renix pump and swapped out the bump stick for a Crane cam and have more than enough fuel delivery. I did use the knock sensor. It has nothing to do with fuel delivery only timing.

Cole, I just finished the swap this morning at about 12:30. The boss that was in my block ('95 HO) did fit the knock sensor, 1/4 NPT if you want to chase the threads first. And there was a plug in the block for the lower coolant temp. sender so I didn't have to lengthen the wires to the t-stat housing. I mounted my bored Renix TB to the HO intake and welded the throttle cable bracket to the adapter. It started first crank and ran like a champ after I broke in the cam.

armybmbsqd, did you simply not use the knock sensor or did you do something else with it? I ask because I just finished assembling my short block today ('95 HO) and it has a threaded boss in the same location as the knock sensor in my Manche ('89 Renix) but I have not pulled the sensor from my '89 to try it yet because I'm still driving it until the HO/AX15 are ready to install.

Gotta do a little before and after thing here because I only had the "before" bike long enough to get a safety on it then straight home to get chopped. I didn't even ride it first. Before: and After: It's still not finished but just needs some detail work done here and there and a little paint. I be hand banging gears before the snow is gone :banana:

I also just found this referenced from an earlier post in the DIY project writeup section FOUND HERE REFERENCED HERE

Makes sense to keep HO head since that and intake are the biggest change to the actual motor. I did bore the TB myself, but I did it on a milling machine using an offset cutter or boring head like this I seen a post here a couple of years back where a guy did the rough cutting with a large burr cutter in a drill press then finished it with a 3 stone hone. But as you can see in my pics it is rather close to the air bleed passage on the drivers side. If you have the machine shop do it get them to leave a couple thou. and finish size it with the 3 stone hone. However you decide to do it, once bored cut the slot in the shaft longer with a hacksaw blade or a fine cut off wheel and slip in the HO butterfly. During final tuning I ended up having to plug the air bleed passage all together to bring the idle down due to the greater volume of air that can now pass the butterfly and shortened air bleed screw.

SEE IF THIS HELPS One obvious route that you may be overlooking though is to mount the Renix TB to the HO motor. Although the HO TB has a 60mm butterfly it is still choked of to 55mm wich is only 3mm larger than the Renix TB's 52mm. This will allow you to keep the Renix throttle cable and all related transmition cables if running an auto. It is the route that I have chosen to take with my Renix to HO swap. Oh and FYI, the Renix TB can easily be opened to 60mm and fitted with an HO butterfly. Here's mine

Just thought I'd chyme in here. I'm not at all familliar about the hesco head and its runner volume v.s. stock, but you stated earlier about having to roughly double the stock air flow. I would just like to throw out this link (Extrude Hone). These guys force an abrasive paste through intake/exhaust manifolds, heads, you name it, to... well in their words "to remove rough cast surfaces that restrict horsepower efficiency of racing/performance components. By enlarging and uniformly polishing internal air and fluid passages, flow velocity is maximized." Just a thought you may already be aware of. Also I would like to comment on your choice of airbag suspention. I have installed a couple air rides and rode in even more. I have always found them to be bouncy especially when running at a lower air pressure, wich you may be if you are using them strictly to go as low as you can for aerodynamics. I would probably favour adjustable coil-overs with bracketry that would allow incrimental adjustments. It's just something that stood out to me while reading, that you may have already thought through :dunno: .

Been awhile since I've posted up. Just been driving it since it has given me absolutely zero problems. Got my parts truck with 3.55's, 242 and full power. will hopefully swap before the snow flies but no promises as I have to go to trade school soon. On one of my trips to the yard I picked up a spare tb and the butterfly from a H.O. I finally found some time to use the mill at work and punched that mofo out to 60mm. The gasket comes in tomorrow, but I have to wait for some 409 SS mandrel bends off e-ghey to make a new intake for the cone filter. I might put it on with the factory intake to see how it works if I can find the time. it looks a little thin in these two spots but there is enough.

It's a wood grain bezel. They are all smoth like that. I got it so it would be easier to sand and mask for paint.

I did it years ago in an old chrysler. Same as you I had a black leather interior with a few missing or bad pieces. Anything soft it held up awesome. Anything hard plastic as you'd imagine, it didn't penetrate and you could scratch it off with some effort. I anticipated this so I scuffed it all with a red scotch brite pad first.

When I did mine the part listing was the same for chreokee and comanche. But when I got it, it didn't fit my manche. Just FYI, may have to find used,

http://adaptitusa.com/referencebook.htm

The Barrie Automotive Flea Market. Any of the guys here from Ontario will know of it. It's on 3 times a year. The fall one you can spent 8 hours solid walking through it, doing a brisk walk and only stopping to look at stuff you are there for. It's huge!! Sorry, I got no way of doing it :dunno: It sounds awesome though. When idling it sounds somewhat like a smallblock

New walker head pipe $20 Magnaflow high flow cat $50 Image Not Found knock off flowmaster (camaro style) $50 Image Not Found Custom bent 2 1/2" intermediate and two tail pipes (2 1/2") with 3" tips bout $150 You could do alot better if you went stock style, but I knew how I wanted it to look and sound.

Pick up one of these stripe removing wheels. Just chuck it up in your drill or die grinder. It litarally erases stripes. Won't harm paint.

There are special punches for roll pins. They have a small ball on the end to keep them centred over the pin. Like jeepthing07 said, most anything else will cause the pin to expand giving it a better hold

Offset is usually cast into the back of the rim like this If you look HERE it says that MJ rims have a centre bore of 71.5 mm and Mark VII is 70.3 so that is a difference of 1.2mm overall or just a little over .5mm all around. A file should pick it up Got any pics of the rims??

This is what my book says But you transplanted the HO in right? Don't know if the ohms are the same or not. And a Q of my own, Since you can't test a sensor warm when it won't start, will a bad CPS result in non continuity between the terminals??

just motor wise but...don't wanna jack :offtopic: