BIGMASS

Not the best pics. It is covered in shop dust and oily handprints, but it still shines http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3304

Oh no, I wasn't refering to your post, I was actually typing when you were posting so I didn't even see it till after I posted. Guys, don't get me wrong. My last truck was was an 84 power ram prospector with 33 12.50's. That truck had at least 5 colours on it not to mention various shades of good ol rust. I didn't even take the company name of the whitewasher off the doors when I bought it, and if you tried to step on the rocker to get in yer foot would be back on the ground. I wheeled that thing all the time, as well as daily drove it, and fixed what I broke every weekend. I rocked primer on it aswell. I didn't care about it much except to have fun in it. My Manche, tho. Man if thet thing had a...well nevermind. Lets just say I love that truck, and It will never have another owner, and I want to drive it for as long as I can, so I gave her what she needed, and she treats me right in return. I don't want this to turn into a turd tossing match. This is one of few internet forums without all the drama, and that's one reason why I love it here so much. :cheers:

Tell me where you are gonna buy a new truck with a brand new body, a brand new drive train with the exception of a low milage engine, already lifted in the colour you choose (not picking from factory options) for under 5 g's, plus have the satisfaction of knowing you built it yourself? It's not gonna happen. If you don't care about the odd rust spot, then by all means, get a cheep job. But I like spotless and piece of mind, so I paid to do it right the first time thats all. Don't tell me I got hosed cause I wanted a nice truck.

:dunno: What kind? I beleive it was a GOOD deal. You have to consider if you want your shine to stay, you can't just put it over old sun checked paint. It will just sink in bout a year down the road and bye bye shine. So the whole thing was stripped to bare metal, and the only thing that didn't need extensive bodywork was the hood. But it still needed stripped smothed and buffed. Doors were panneled to above the character line, plus some on the inside, the cab was cracked at all 4 corners of the srw, new cab extentions, and outer rockers (hand made cause the aftermarket ones don't fit). And don't forget just cause a southern box and tailgate don't have rust don't mean they don't have dings. New bumper with shaved bumperettes, bumper end caps, clean and paint frame, paint dash bezel, don't forget colour change. And one other thing that no customer ever wants to pay for, fasteners, lots and lots of fasteners, clips bolts, doorpins (upgrade to chevy pins) screws, they all add up. Just to give you an idea, I only paid $200 bux for this truck and it had 172Km (106mi) on the clock, a new tranny transfer case and clutch, I believe that this body will last longer than the original, and I will make sure of it, because I'm anal that way. :beerhead: I don't think I did. The people who get screwed are the ones who pay jack and have it done every few years. Like the Beastie Boys said "Put a quarter in yer @$$ cause you played yerself." :laughin: :rotfl2:

If you're low on fab skilz and pocket money the oil pan method would definately be an easy way to gain a couple of inches. If you got skilz and no cash I would be more inclined to fab up a drop front axle like what the buggy spring fords use in the front. a la this It would let you keep factory suspension geometry, parts and ride. If you got moderate skilz and a hefty tax refund, this would get you real low real easy I believe you order by the width of your frame rails and they build it to your needs. Just slip it on from underneith and burn it home. You could also do IFS from a junk yard car with independant front suspention, (possibly s-dyme) but then you'll be fabing up some new inner fenders, and finding rims with the correct offset and bolt pattern.

I've got a Nissan Hardbody with a static drop. 3" blocks in the back and cranked tortions up front. Blocks are a decent way to lower. I havn't experienced any axle wrap. If you go with a 4" block or higher (I wouldn't go higher) get an angled block to correct the pinion angle. There are many people in the mini truck scene that put in 4" blocks and pull a leaf, plus relocate the front hanger. I have seen static droped nissans that needed a step notch in the rear. Remember you are limited in the front by oil pan to axle clearance, so I would drop the front first and go from there

I have worked in body shops quite a bit, and there are shops that are like this, but what it usually boils down to is the insurance adjuster or the customer don't want to pay for the work required. Everyone wan't somthing for nothing. If you want a good job that will last you can't expect to pay peanuts for it. Plus materials are thru the roof. I have seen job that cost more on materials than labour. When I had my body done, I did the disassembly, changed fenders, scratch built the floor pans and inner rockers (and installed them), bought a southern box and tailgate, and did the reassembly, plus I was there every day from 8-12 working on it with him (cause I used to work there). I got a deal and I paid between 3000 to 3500 for the labour and material no parts. Bottom line, You get what you pay for. that's the way it has always been, and that's the way it will always be.

Have also heard that Ranger guys use Manche coils for a lift, so they aught to lower an MJ

So you had powa for a while untill you tried to start it??? If so possible relay/fuse popped, don't know the electrics on these to well yet, just a thought.

Sounds like he already did that. mjeff87, bout what year did that come out of? It is exactly what I was looking for. I tried to do it with the EGR solinoid but it didn't work.

Can you find a countersinking bit with the correct taper to clean it up a bit?? Like this If you can't find one with the correct tapper, most reputable machine shops should have one and could do it for you.

Ya it's been a couple of years since I sold my last bike, and I can't wait to get in the wind again. There is a 650 four up the road for sale, and the owner just got picked up for traficing...again, so I might make an offer for an inbetween bike. My squeeze also has a little project bike that I picked up for her. I can't wait to get choppin on that one!!! :Canadaflag:

Maybe wheel "E"

I finally got enough to order my engine cases for my project bike :cheers: Building an 88 inch big bore altenator shovel with 3 5/8 cyl's and 80" flywheels Here is a partial mock up Just had to tell someone :brows:

and obviously both manifolds plus (i think) a new head pipe???? Adapt renix TB to HO intake(and bore it to match HO manifold good example of adapter in second link) or Renix TPS to HO TB ( eg here)

I'm with you bruh, nuthin drops the value of a truck to me more than the 'ol blue oval. :cheers:

jbhill here is a tube miter program that will help with the notches 89MJComanche, the JD2 is about the best bang for your buck. It is what most people who build motorcycle frames use. But if you only plan on using it for a few jobs on your own rig then maybe have a look at THIS or for a functional bender on the C.H.E.A.P this guy is a very ingenious frame builder and can produce clean bends with THIS. Don't get me wrong he doesn't use it for his frames, it was an example of a cheep one use bender to help out thoes of us in the chopper scene that just want to build one frame.

Ahh the perfect opritunity to body drop to the door, no floors and no rockers make it an easy decision Are you planning a bag job or static drop only? :popcorn:

The early chrysler cordoba's had an arm rest thet folded up for a 3rd seat. It only came in bucket seat column shift cars. By early I mean the first ones (75-77) with the big round headlights and high back buckets You might even find it in "Fine Corinthian Leather"!!!

I listened to both sound clips and it seems to be better, no? Is the water pump known to be bad? If so it could cause such a problem. What all pulleys were replaced?

try these guys maybe http://www.cardinalfastener.com/ or http://www.fastenercorp.com/products.html

good cherokee vid http://www.clipaday.com/2007/01/how_to_destroy_a_jeep.html

Did you run it with the belt off? That would narrow it down alot and let us know if we are looking in the right place :dunno:

If not pulleys or alt bearings it could be alt brushes too

Sounds like you may have some bad bearings in a pulley or two. Remove the belt and check each one for smooth rotational movement and any side to side or in and out play.