shelbyluvv

The 2.2 is OHC with slider rockers between the cam and valves. They went to the roller type rockers later on, in the common block. You could also get a DOHC 2.2 in the Spirit R/T, Daytona R/T, or the Ultra Rare Maserati TC. If you go to Mexico almost all the FWD Dodges are DOHC 2.2 or 2.5s. It is pretty easy to make a 2.4 Neon head work on a 2.2 as well. I would scatter my bottom end it I tried to hit 10K RPM. I am impressed by that. It explains how imports are pulling the times that they are with such little HP and TQ.

I have the dyno sheet for my car. It has 348 HP and 423 TQ at the wheels. I have also weighed my car. At the time it was 2477 with driver. I run a 11.46 with this setup. My first love, before I found the world of Jeeps, was the FWD Turbo Dodges from the 80's. Hence the user name, Shelbyluvv. I have built and blown up more 4 poppers in the last 16 years than I care to count. I would love to see the dyno map of a 10 second Honda. I doubt IMHO that it only has 350 ponies. 400+ is more like it. EDIT: I just found a dyno sheet for HONDATA. He supposedly ran a 10.71 with 268 WHP. But get this... 10,800 red line!!! Holy crap! I red line at 5500 RPM. How is this possible on a 4 stroke engine? Rotary sure, a normal engine? I am truly impressed.

Sold to me! Thank you sir! :bowdown:

Maybe in the 1/8th. There is no way a stock D16 bottom end will handle that much squeeze and reach the end of the 1320 in one piece. I have 22 psi of boost and a little shot (50) of juice. My car has all forged internals though. The fastest I have got it to in the 1/4 was 11.46 & 110. I don't see why its not possable,ive seen a stock internal EX coupe run mid 11's with full interior. now the engine didnt live very long like that but it did it. so why couldnt you take an early hatch or CRX strip it down, turbo the crap out of it and get a pass in the 10s the fastest D16 runs mid 9's so the engine is capable of it,as long as it held together 10's are possable. Do you know how much more power it takes to go from mid 11's (where I am) to the 10's? This is not a easy task. For any engine. That Honduh will need about 450-500 ponies to pull that off. The car would need to weigh about 1000 LBs. I am not saying it is not possible. I am saying that the internals will not survive off juice alone. I want to see someone put a 400 shot on a stock D16. KABOOOOOM!!!!!

Do not forget about weight transfer off the line. He is going to dump the clutch on the Honda and remove all the weight from the front tires and plant it on the rear ones. Making the front end light. Sending the tires up in smoke.

I PCS to 29 Palms in July. As long as my monitor does not screw me around and send me to Oki. I retire in 3.5 years. That would be a swell thing for him to do.

Maybe in the 1/8th. There is no way a stock D16 bottom end will handle that much squeeze and reach the end of the 1320 in one piece. I have 22 psi of boost and a little shot (50) of juice. My car has all forged internals though. The fastest I have got it to in the 1/4 was 11.46 & 110.

Great eye for spotting the HMMWV! I am pulling I&I duty in Marietta GA at HQ&SVC BN. I call doing the duty my lapse in judgment. I know it will help me with my career progression but I hate it. Semper FI!

If he is running 3" pipes on that NA motor he just killed any and all low end torque that the Honda had. Big pipes on a 4 popper are not always a good thing. I have 3" on my 4 banger car. But, it also has a turbo and a little shot of squeeze.

LOL, Non VTEC too. I think the MJ would give it a run for it's money.

I traded my front ARB, rear carrier, and rock rails for some stockers on Monday. Of course the new owner of my parts put a little cash in my hand too. I really missed the look of the Jeep stock. It has had bumpers on it since it was 3 months old. I never really got to enjoy it looking pretty in it's birthday suit. Here it sits with stock bumpers, 2" BB, and some 17" Commander wheels.

I got the 97 doors on her finally. Not much else done to it.

Nice truck. I would love to find a HO. I will just keep swapping them. Do us a favor and change your sig. Unless my eyes are playing tricks on me. Your truck is a short box.

Welcome aboard. If you need guidance on the swap to the newer junk please just ask. I am about 70% finished with mine.

Thanks. Once she decided she wanted to keep the truck for herself. I put her to work on it. She is enjoying it more each time we can spin wrenchs on it.

I know for a fact that at least one 2.5 SWB MJ was turned in. It is in a yard in PA. I have the tail lights out of it.

I am at a standstill for parts right now. I need the pad that goes behind the dash to really make anymore progress. Once I get this part I can install the heater box, dash wiring, dash (for good), and all the under hood wiring. It seems like every day I get some time off work either the Honey Do list has piled up or it is pouring outside. I have a few parts requests out there on some boards. If the parts come to be in a timely manner she could be assembled and driveable by spring.

Welcome to the club. For your seat info, see my build thread linked in my sig. I have had 4 or 5 (maybe more) different types of seats in my truck! Good luck with your choice.

I bought my D44 from CA for $260 shipped to me in GA. My tailgate cost me $125 shipped for a rust free beauty. It is all in who you know and how bad you need the parts. I will be home to CA in July and can't hardly contain myself.

Ben, You are being warned publicly. Your boy was banned because he was a problem. He was constantly pushing the rules. Much like you are right now. It is getting old. The public mocking of the mods stops now or you will be joining Darren in the band. What you posted in the opening thread is exactly what I told your buddy via a PM. If you can not act like a grown man, go away from this site. Got it?

I know where a red 89 Eliminator is for sale here in GA. The truck has a ax-15, D44, and metric tonne rear springs. I offered to buy the truck and he pulled it off to market for me. I do not think I will be able to come up with the money in a timely fashion for the truck. He wants $900 and it is worth every penny. Rust free, runs perfect. The only thing it needs is the clutch bled or the master replaced. The clutch currently will not allow the trans to go into gear. Call me if you are seriously interested in the truck. He will not come down on the price so please don't ask. I have no pics of it but it is a nice truck for the money. Bo (760) 668-6630

It is a bolt on.

I did it to my truck. Read threw the build it is in there somewhere.

I just bought another MJ. I am going to do a 4 door MJ next year. I need the funds to finance this project. Yes it is the $1200 BDS kit. The lift is a little over a year old. It had no sag and I got no DW with it. The kit is missing a couple bolts and the upper shock bushings and bolts for the front. He could reuse his stock ones in place of the missing parts. The bolts that are missing is for the track bar drop bracket. You have to replace your stock motor mount bolts with longer ones from the kit. I lost my stock bolts and just reused the ones from the kit. The bolts are easy to find at any hard ware store. They were nothing special. Just an inch longer than the stock ones. All the parts in the kit are in perfect condition. There are no blown bushing or rusted parts. It is a really nice kit. I have no use for it and want it gone. It would make an awesome Christmas gift! :wavey:

Is he working with a WJ (99-04) or a ZJ (94-98)? The rear springs on WJ are totally different than the front. I have never heard of a F-R swap on a WJ. ZJs yes. I think you are asking for the wrong parts or he is misinformed. make me an honest offer of my lift if he is indeed working on a WJ. I might just take it.